JULIUS_7 F/W 2015 - Paris

[dji]

pretty disappointed as well now that we're starting to see pieces filter in for preorder. even as a great fan of Horikawa's work I ended up skipping entirely on ghost and glitch, with a few gems from prism piquing my interest again. the MA line was always a good fall back for classic pieces (FW14 was a stand out) but with MA been reduced to a more limited pre-collection and replaced with the bland Nilos it is getting harder to keep the faith. here's hoping SS16 can change my mind next month.

besides some basics and maybe the hooded sweater I doubt I'll give anything much of a second look.. TriggerDiscipline I recall you mentioning that they changed the construction for the new polygon sneakers (something about a hidden heel?) however the samples look like they have the same thick (and pretty heavy) crepe soles?

[TriggerDiscipline]

pre-order period has started in certain japanese stores, such as id heart. Great boots and tailoring, not so sure about the rest of the stuff.

that's correct, the tailoring is good the rest is pretty bad, the down parkas are good if you like street, the poly shoes i found uncomfortable because they have hidden heel now, but like the quality got worse on a lot of things including the denim, and the leather pants dont compare to glitch, overall just not good.

regular shoes were good though.

I tried on the paneled leather one more time just to double check and it was okay, but not as good as prism or even 2010 leathers...

idk what to say,

Nilos long tees are like night gowns.

[Quiet]

i tried on a bit of the new stuff. the construction of the denim is pretty cool but the actual feel is nothing to write home about, theres a version with a slight drop crotch i will probably pick up. the tailored blazer is as fantastic as it was in prism, sleeve construction in particular is eye catching. the leathers were fairly uninteresting so i didnt even give them a look. the one that i did try on i didnt really have any inspirational moments over, i thought they fit poorly comparatively to previous seasons. the sneakers are just pure camp which is cool on the runway but good luck wearing these with anything but a full julius kit. i wish he'd give us another wearable insanity in industrial triumverant instead of this ghost in the shell nonsense. it seems like since halo the price point on the denim has gone down quite substantially. does anyone know the reasoning?

[arby2001]

new nilos looks like BS...street goth? main line is still interesting in some ways (namely tailoring) but the gritty industrialism is gone so I have not purchased much from them recently except MA tees.

old denim is unparalleled, great fit especially the ripped knees and ultra long stacks one. don't know who else to buy from other than attachment and possibly BBS, but those tend to be cleaner. i hope they will look at what made them successful in the past...

[cowsareforeating]

what is that you guys don't like about the new collections? I am a big fan of the drop crotch knit denim stuff he's been doing and the treatments in wrinkling seem more beautiful than ever?

[Shadowvault]

that stuff was for the show only, which was utterly dissapointing, also I do not intend to burst your bubble on the panelled leather, but it was not as good as id hoped it would be. :[

Sorry for bringing this up but since i dont know much about runways and actual garments in the stores.. Do designers in general make stuff only for the show? I was searching for info on that crazy leather down parka. The only thing i managed to find is the code: 517COM5, but i saw no link of an actual store. Did this even get sold?

[TriggerDiscipline]

the way it works is that if no store ordered it, and the brand didnt make it for their flagships it was never produced.

[Shadowvault]

So there should only be one or two samples from just for the runway and lookbooks/photoshoots, collecting dust in someones wardrobe :P

[perceptiveintent]

why does it seem julius has downgraded in quality or has completely shifted there entire paradigm of creativity just sad to see a brand like this

[Faust]

why does it seem julius has downgraded in quality or has completely shifted there entire paradigm of creativity just sad to see a brand like this

It doesn't seem so, it is so. No one cares anymore.

[mikemikemike]

really feels like they are scrambling with the s/s21 'permanent' looks. maybe to try an capture some of the former success. pretty sad.

[Shadowvault]

the way it works is that if no store ordered it, and the brand didnt make it for their flagships it was never produced.

I did manage to find it but unfortunately in size 2 (not 1). There is even one on grailed right now.

really feels like they are scrambling with the s/s21 'permanent' looks. maybe to try an capture some of the former success. pretty sad.

Its really weird to me. I felt he was going pretty strong but then..
Im curious if Nilos sells in general.
I dont see Tatsuro's work in any EU/US shops.
I have to say that i liked a lot of pieces from previous collections and im still collecting.
It would be interesting to get an interview and see what is going on on Tatsuro's head.

I dont thing that reviving old looks is bad. Almost all top tier designers to that. But i think he should at a little twist to make it a bit different, just like the others. He did it late though. Since he is remaking old stuff too i would love to see some black polygon high top sneaker boots. Its a grail.