Yohji Yamamoto Mens SS08

[Casius]

[deuxmille]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

I like the blue jacket with many pockets a lot and the boots look nice. I'm not sure about the baggy pants that tapper extremely at the knee (I actually started making pants like that a few years back but I thought they looked silly hehe).

Oh, does that long coat with the stripe with text look like linen to anyone else (my eyes are bad)? I like that one, but I'm not sure I'd ever wear it with that text stripe.

[Servo2000]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

The first photo is the first time I've liked the tapered-at-the-knee look, it doesn't look completely out of place to me. It might just be the fabric, I'm not sure.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

Another cool collection, unmistakably Yohji. Love the blazers, the zippered pants and the green coat. [U]

[Buckwheat]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



This is a strong presentation with military and peace theme. But I am not sure if this is as great as the past few seasons.

I think there were a lot smart details in thepastfew collections. But this one seems a bit excessive with pockets, zippers, tie laces etc. It reminds me of his S/S 06baseball collection withthose awkward placement of zippers and opening.

Materials look nice....but I was hoping for better....[:S]

[Casius]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

Here are some pics from style.com. I really like this collection, especially after seeing these pics.

[skot4mc]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



thank youcasius.

very cool.

I notice more transparent fabrics!

[dontbecruel]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

I'm disappointed after Yohji's previous two summer collections (baseball in 06 and the suspenders/newsboy collection this year). Both of those took real visual strength from mixing depression era historical references with Yohji's own idiosyncratic constructions, justifying his idea that fashion is an art of designing with time. Here we have some pretty typical Yamamoto shirts and jackets, but none of the creative perception you see in his best collections, the feeling of an original insight into the way things look today. At least I can't see it yet. I don't aspire to enter this world.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



[quote user="dontbecruel"]I'm disappointed after Yohji's previous two summer collections (baseball in 06 and the suspenders/newsboy collection this year). Both of those took real visual strength from mixing depression era historical references with Yohji's own idiosyncratic constructions, justifying his idea that fashion is an art of designing with time. Here we have some pretty typical Yamamoto shirts and jackets, but none of the creative perception you see in his best collections, the feeling of an original insight into the way things look today. At least I can't see it yet. I don't aspire to enter this world.
[/quote]

I can see it. This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend. It's just not as overt as the baseball or the newsboy collection.

[dontbecruel]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

[quote user="Faust"]

This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.

[/quote]

That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.

[interman]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

[quote user="dontbecruel"][quote user="Faust"]

This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.

[/quote]

That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.

[/quote]

Just out of curiosity, which of his collections do you like the most? I was never a huge Yohji fan until I joined this and a couple of other forums, so I haven't looked too much into his earlier stuff.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

[quote user="dontbecruel"][quote user="Faust"]

This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.

[/quote]

That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.

[/quote]

What do you think would create this emotional content?

[dontbecruel]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

[quote user="Faust"]

What do you think would create this emotional content?

[/quote]

Fair enough, what I'm saying is all very vague. But whatever it is that gives a collection its character, its feel, it's more than just the individual pieces isn't it? And I don't see much of that elusive spirit here. On a more tangible tack, I agree with Buckwheat that there are too many fussy novelty details and the clothes aren't as strong overall as in his last few collections. I don't think there are many original standout pieces that will draw long-term Yohji customers into the shop next spring.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



You just reminded me that I never sent you my thesis. Yes, there is something that gives a collection that something, and sometimes it's hard to pin down.

This time may be I am not looking hard enough. To me Yohji has always been like that - there is a strong signature present, with variations and departures. And these pieces are distinctly Yohji, so I would imagine that his customer would come exactly for that.

Having said that, I now see that you view Yohji in more depth than I do (just like I view Ann in more depth then most). I never thought of his clothes as making art by working with time, although I was given a hint in Wim Wenders's documentary. I dig it [Y]

[dontbecruel]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

[quote user="Faust"]

these pieces are distinctly Yohji, so I would imagine that his customer would come exactly for that.

[/quote]

I was thinking that for people who own lots of his clothes already, there's nothing that grabs you by the throat and whispers in your ear "...you need to blow £1000 on another Yamamoto jacket..."