Leather jackets: Rick Owens vs. Julius

[mixmaster7_91]

I think both Rick and Julius make some really good leather jackets, as well as some really bad ones. I feel at the end of the day, it really comes down to the individual piece both in terms of styling and leather quality as it varies largely from piece to piece. I strongly disagree with many people who say Julius is too 'overstyled' compared to Rick jackets as I feel it really comes down to the individual piece. For example, the Julius Moto from AW10 is a very simple jacket and one of my favourites.

For me, a more important factor in terms of picking which label is better is a persons built. Julius would work much better on a very slim person and Rick would work better on someone who is moderately built in my opinion. Even though leather stretches, it seems to me that Julius leather jackets seem a bit odd on anyone with a moderate amount of muscle on them, but Rick seems to fit fine.

[dmash1080]

Rick enjoys working out and fitness, hence why his leathers fit better on people with muscle. I have definitely experienced the same thing...almost no julius stuff fits me due to my muscle mass.

[mixmaster7_91]

Do you have any pictures of that jacket? I can't really imagine it but sounds like something Lumen et Umbra did for one of their AW10 jackets...but I'm probably completely off track haha

[mingrui]

Not sure if I should post this here, but after reading the entire thread I've still got some questions and you guys here really knows a lot about rick leathers.

I'm about to get my first RO leather jacket but totally at a lose with all the different types of leather

1. For AW which is better(warmth is the foremost attribute i'm looking, but don't nee to be as warm as a down parka)? Oiled Calf or Lamb Leather?

2. If Lamb Leather, which kind?

3. I really like two styles: Intarsia with high neck AW2010 and Mollino SS2010. But for the Mollino SS2010, I'm not sure how thick the leather is. What is the difference between SS and AW leathers in terms of thickness and lining?

I'm a newb... Sry for so many dumb questions but willing to learn
Someone help me!
Thanks in advance!

[upsilonkng]

1.the fw oiled calf is probably the second warmest of all the leathers rick makes, the first being the blistered neoprene lamb because that's part of the intention. but 09aw oiled calf and 10aw oiled calf is super thick, much thicker than any of the lamb.
2. for warmth it's the blistered neoprene lamb, for looks .. for me it's the hammered lamb follow by the blistered lamb, don't really like any of the rest. But that's a personal opinion.
3.the ss10 mollino w/ the oiled calf is thin medium at best, don't like it much, it's nothing like the oiled calf I had for the 09 Geo and slightly plastic-like and fits very very small.In general the aw is thicker and the ss is better fitting so there's give and take w/ both seasons.. plus some of the aw is also 9-10 cm longer which makes a huge difference if you aren't over 6ft, it's the difference between a leather coat and a leather jacket.

[sshum88]

^ RO Leathers

1. AW10 Gleam oiled calf
2. Hammered
3. AW 10 Gleam high collar intarsia in oiled calf is much thicker than the SS10 molino that I handled. General rule is that the FW will be much heavier and thicker than SS except the FW11 that I handled in Korea seemed to be thinner than the FW10 that I own.

[madamx]

Hello, i have in my wardrobe 3 RO leather jacket and only 1 Julius leather jacket! I like the RO fit and Julius for the the asimmetric style too.

[mingrui]

thx upsilonkng and sshum88

Two more questions:

1.Rick Owens Leather Code, this is what I found on SZ and compiled for myself:

LB: unwashed calf
LM: metallic calf
LS: silky lambskin
LC: washed lambskin
LF: fading lambskin
LO: oiled calfleather
LSH = Lamb Shearling
LNB = blistered leather on neoprene

LP: Distressed Sheep Skin
LR: Regular Smooth Leather <----- Calf or lamb???

What about LE ? As in SS11 Mollino from blackbird

2.How do you guys feel about the SS11 Combo Jacket with all the different materials mashed together? As this one on blackbird?

Thx again!

[sshum88]

^ RO ??

1. No idea.
2. Not a fan of leather combo jackets. Prefer all leather or all 'other material'

[Enaml]

It could be argued that the quality of designs from that time is exceptional in a way that has little in common with the recent collections produced under the label.

The old inflamed ram jacket I own from 06 or 07 is a fantastic example of this. One of the best cuts for a leather jacket I've ever seen, just wish I could get it in a different material. Think somebody might be selling this jacket on here or sufu or something now that I think of it... It'd be great if more old julius pieces were available. Clearly we're not the only ones who feel the stuff they made back then was nice.

On a different note, I'm interested in the quality of those older carpe diem leather jackets. Never handled one IRL, but they go for crazy amounts on Y!JP for what seem to be well-worn jackets.

[upsilonkng]

thx upsilonkng and sshum88

Two more questions:

1.Rick Owens Leather Code, this is what I found on SZ and compiled for myself:

LB: unwashed calf
LM: metallic calf
LS: silky lambskin
LC: washed lambskin
LF: fading lambskin
LO: oiled calfleather
LSH = Lamb Shearling
LNB = blistered leather on neoprene

LP: Distressed Sheep Skin
LR: Regular Smooth Leather <----- Calf or lamb???

What about LE ? As in SS10 Mollino from blackbird

2.How do you guys feel about the SS10 Combo Jacket with all the different materials mashed together? As this one on blackbird?

Thx again!

1. not sure what LE stands for but this is the thickest lamb I've ever felt from a SS collection from Rick, love this lamb actually, he should use it more, minus the pattern.
2. it's slightly interesting and fits tiny... I couldn't even zip the Small. But the more you look at it the more it looks like a really expensive track jacket or something... the different material makes it look futuristic but also slightly "Running Man" futuristic. but it's all opinion. Nice jacket, extremely comfortable, way too expensive.

[mingrui]

Just found this RO leather guide online. Hope will help someone in the future.

http://www.styleguise.net/forums/index.php?/page/rick_owens_leather_guide.html

[t-bone]

everything at that link belongs in wtf.

[mingrui]

^ you mean not accurate?

[kunk75]

yup, cuccinelli makes the nicest quality leathers i've seen but you won't find many bruno threads here.

quality is nothing but a fantasy