Leather jackets: Rick Owens vs. Julius

[HWith]

What are people's opinion on Rick Owens and Julius leathers?

Personally I prefer Julius leathers because of the raglan shoulders and because they don't have the elastic band cuffs that many RO jackets seem to have. On the other side Julius jackets often have a wee too many zippers and are extremely body huggingly tight, which also puts me off, so for me it's a tought choice. Right now I'm actually leaning towards buying a RO Mollino instead of a Julius as my next leather.

Also, what are your thoughts on the leathers used, craftmanship, pricing etc.?

I would be great to have a comprehensive threads on Julius/RO-jackets, as so many people in here have them.

I have chosen not to include CCP jackets as these really aren't comparable to RO and Julius leathers.

[theaddict]

The leather used on Julius leathers is definitely not the best, it ranges in between cheap and medium priced range. I like most of their styles though, If they would use better leather I would cop. Its every season the same, I see the runway pics and the styled pics and love many styles and when i see and touch the leathers I am a bit disappointed. Thus I never bought a Julius leather...Although I like the design very much.
Dunno ricks leather source but his oiled calf is one of my favorites whereas other versions are not very convincing.

[kunk75]

i don't think there is any comparison and I have never been a julius fan so I am admittedly biased but i prefer the style, leather, the everything of rick

[jscl]

Once you own a RO oiled calf there's no going back. My high neck is so tough heavy and substantial. Julius has always been a bit short on me I'm 6'3.

[Patroklus]

The leather used on Julius leathers is definitely not the best, it ranges in between cheap and medium priced range. I like most of their styles though, If they would use better leather I would cop. Its every season the same, I see the runway pics and the styled pics and love many styles and when i see and touch the leathers I am a bit disappointed. Thus I never bought a Julius leather...Although I like the design very much.
Dunno ricks leather source but his oiled calf is one of my favorites whereas other versions are not very convincing.

Isn't Julius a mid-market label in terms of its price bracket? Even though the cost might be similar in the West, comparing Rick and Julius on build quality seems a bit like comparing APC to Ermenegildo Zegna.

[andrewislasorad]

I own leathers from both designers, and continue to buy leathers from both.

I think both designers have equal parts great leathers and no so great leathers. When I buy a Rick leather it is usually the uniqueness and shape of cut that draws me to it. With Julius it's usually more about a perfected idea; the perfect fit, hybrid of iconic styles, washed, etc. Price wise they are on par with one another.

When both are at their best, I say it's a draw for me.

I will say that my AW06 Julius oiled ram leather riders jacket, is still worn just as much as the day I got it 5 years ago, and looks as amazing as ever.

[dji]

love both but very different beasts. Julius leather jackets have a more aggressive, industrial look with their form fitting cut, exposed zips and processed leathers. Rick leathers lean to simpler, sportier designs with more standard looking and feeling leathers (with a few exceptions like the blistered and controversial gradiant leathers).

cut wise as mentioned they are very different. _7 has an anatomical cut with the raglan shoulders and tapered, almost corset like, midsection. Rick on the other hand tends to look more sporty, with intentionally high cut shoulders, a shorter back length and track jacket style ribbed cuffs.

have to disagree regarding leather quality SA, at least in my experience the quality of the leathers that _7 uses are head and shoulders above that of most RO leathers. most _7 leathers are reasonably substantial (unless intentionally otherwise) with interesting tanning and processing treatments that make them far more interesting imo. RO leather does vary a bit but I feel that the majority of the leathers used look and feel a lot more "fashiony".

price wise they are very much on par.

personally it's a close race but my personal preference is still Julius, my AW09 jut neck is still one of my most frequently worn pieces and is getting better with age and wear.

[theaddict]

Well D I never said that Ricks leather is always better than Julius leather. Only the oiled calf beats any Julius leather in terms of quality. I have also seen Rick leathers of minor quality.

But what I can say for sure is that most Julius leathers are made of let's say medium priced leather. And that's on the one hand a subjective feeling of me personally but also just a simple fact which can be backed by anyone working in the leather industry(not talking about designers or fashion people but pure leather merchants). Btw I saw the designer here in Hongkong at the leather fair;) didn't talk to him though...
Anyway, just to make myself clear, I am not saying that Julius leathers are bad in general, I really really like their fit and most of the styles. Julius does some bad ass leather which seem just to be cut for my body physique. I just don't like their leather quality...

[dji]

heh, fair enough mate. I was under the impression that all the leathers that _7 uses are sourced from local Japanese tanneries however someone with more knowledge on the topic would be able to offer greater insight.

just out of curiosity what do you consider to be a high priced (quality?) leather? I'd argue that the leathers that Julius uses can be on par with the likes of Guidi..

[AKA*NYC]

this season rick has really stepped it up with the box calf (safari jacket) and heavy lamb (showtek). along with the 09 oiled calf and 06 horse leather these are the highest quality leathers i've ever seen him use and on par with just about any leather i've seen from any designer. next season looks equally amazing from the showroom photos. i feel that rick leathers are more "adult" and versatile than julius which are usually aggressive and most effective when worn demurely.

[zamb]

Of the two of them Carol makes the best leather.........

[JD_May]

As far as dis from superfuture is concerned, the detail and construction of some julius leathers exceeds anything seen in RO's - I feel inclined to defer to him given that he's a) a nerd for construction and materials and b) has made hundreds of leather jackets.

[zamb]

As far as dis from superfuture is concerned, the detail and construction of some julius leathers exceeds anything seen in RO's - I feel inclined to defer to him given that he's a) a nerd for construction and materials and b) has made hundreds of leather jackets.

Agreed. but one cannot say that julius' jackets are better because of this reason, because then it becomes a matter of aesthetics.

Rick has often said that his clothes are designed to be "intentionally imperfect"...................there is also a view that too much detail can be seen as excessive and unnecessary..........

[Patroklus]

i feel that rick leathers are more "adult" and versatile than julius which are usually aggressive and most effective when worn demurely.

Demurely as in...? Usually when I see people wearing Julius in a sober outfit it seems like they're wasting their money. It's an all or nothing aesthetic.

[theaddict]

Really D? Nah i think Guidi is far superior. But it always depends on the actual leather too. The same fabric in India or Pakistan can supply leathers for h&m, diesel, Julius, prada and so forth depending on wha the customer wants. I was only allowed a little look inside this scenery behind what we know as fashion and try to believe in. Trust me, it can destroy dreams...
And I don't think that Julius gets their leathers originally from Japanese tanneries...there they might get the last treatment, but I would guess the origin is more likely in south east Asia...or alike...;)