2017 capsule collection and Look book.

[TriggerDiscipline]

Various techniques and treatments were explored in the creation of these garments including the use of extensive blind stitches, French seams, and extensive piping to ensure resistance against ripping, yet not lose attention to detail. The self designed and made capsule was entirely created start to finish following traditional methods and without the use of computer guidance.



Full Editorial available on my wesbite: click here

SS18 pictures soon. Thanks for browsing.

[zen dog]

Great work TriggerDisipline! Are you designing clothing you want to wear or pushing things more toward a commercial aspect?
Also, I like how, in the last two shots on your website, the glint of the zippers echoes the almost white tree branches.

[TriggerDiscipline]

Great work TriggerDisipline! Are you designing clothing you want to wear or pushing things more toward a commercial aspect?
Also, I like how, in the last two shots on your website, the glint of the zippers echoes the almost white tree branches.

Thank you very much for your kind words, this was part of my ongoing research project in Bunka Fashion College.

These particular pieces were designed in mind as somewhat of a uniform for myself that could be worn in both fall winter and spring summer. The first setup is a waxed heavy cotton that was woven in a very special mill in Aichi prefecture near Nagoya where they still keep the production processes very simple but at the same time guarantee the Japanese perfection and quality you have come to expect. The fact of the matter is that mills like these are slowly disappearing due to the aging population and Japan only manufacturing a mere two percent of the clothing made in the entire world.

I visited a couple of factories that use some of the most ingenuitive methods for the treatment of fabrics or manufacturing and the only place that seemed to be in good shape was Shima seiki. They develop a computer integrated sewing machine that knits fabrics as a whole garment requiring very little actual hand work involved besides the manipulation via a desktop computer where they can render a visual model of the finished product with thread information and takes into account stretch and drape.

Everywhere else, in 30 years these places of production will cease to exist so within my ability I am either sourcing some of these fabrics, methods, or at the very least writing about it. For spring summer I also sourced a very interesting wool/silk/ramie combination fabric that also uses some of these Japanese weaving techniques of the past.

The project is about preservation and creation, recently I have been patternmaking on CAD so I think that a lot of the work I have in store for 2018 will certainly be a lot more precise and cleaner. Some people are very obsessed with everything being hand made but I think there will always be people that will draw patterns by hand and that will never go away. This leaves me to study manufacturing processes and the systems used, while trying to work with alternative fabrics.

I also think that my efforts of preservation will be futile because there has been so much that has been already lost and one person is not enough to record many of these methods. For example, there is a factory called Fukaki Woolen textiles and they still use thistles that are attached to gears to raise the naps on their cashmere and there's just something special of seeing nature combined with machine that is just not done anymore. I had a chance to visit their facilities and it was an awesome factory but they are slowly shrinking over time due to less and less need for these higher quality products because of the unstoppable fast fashion machine.

As for the design process at first it was more about what kind of things I wanted to wear, but what ended up happening was that I would just end up buying the designer version of the garment, which was just better than what I was making, and that was my opinions of the time.

After this mini capsule I haven't made menswear, the 2018 products so far have been entirely women's but I am much more satisfied with this, especially since it's not for my personal use there is certainly something special about creating something for someone and seeing their eyes light up. I am developing the 2018 looks now which is part of my graduation thesis which I am presenting in March.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

[monster]

Trigger, everything is great from the beginning to the end! Also, notes about Japanese factories and the whole text is very interesting to read. Hope to see more from you in this thread :)

[zamb]

Ah, M,

great work, happy to see you progressing.
But you know, i need to see up close man............

keep pushing!

[TriggerDiscipline]

This is very true and I believe it is imperative to look at garments on a much deeper level, not just whether or not the silhouettes or the look books are good. I am still a student, and this is very much amateur sewing work, the stuff I am cooking up currently is on a much better level but if I was to take garment creation more seriously, it would take a lifetime of dedicated work to to get to somewhere where I could be genuinely proud of. For now I am taking small steps to improve my work, although I will never officially make my projects for sale. I am much more interested in other paths in the industry, especially when it comes to manufacturing, but we will see what happens come march.

I am also feeling the pressure so here is some SS17 Production photos please excuse the camera quality because this was just taken with a cellphone but perhaps it would give an idea of the kind of piping work I am doing. This was a denim sourced from the very special Okayama prefecture famous for their denim production, it is a black with a slight oil coating, and with the use of the press I tried to emphasize the oiling on it. It is inside out on the body to show the work, not necessarily a reversible jacket.




this is a longer version of the above, but this design might change, but this should give a roundabout idea of what kind of approach I am taking for the new stuff.




once again thank you for the kind thoughts, and I hope to put up some of the new stuff when It gets finished!

[zen dog]

I appreciate your extended reply, TriggerDiscipline, and your passion for fabric and struggling mills. I would like to see a video of the thistle pulling the nap on cashmere, kinda an eastern answer to Paul Harnden's mill dvd- which I also enjoyed.
Perhaps you could could refer or act as an intermediary to some of the aspiring designers who read these forums and the mills you've mentioned? They could benefit by having fabrics hardly anyone else has and helping support these mills.

[Erich Fromm]

Great stuff Trigger! I was wondering what software you are using because you mentioned CAD?

[goldsamxo]

Ah Trigger - I already mentioned to you via Instagram how much I loved this collection, but didn't get to read a true explanation until today.
I really loved how you mentioned that there will always be hand-drafted patterns, so you're pursing a different route. Many people seem to want to keep the 'artisan' portion of their work, and refuse to do anything else, so hearing you work more-so computer-wise is a nice change of pace. Thanks for providing detail shots as well, the piping around the arm holes (your second post - jacket) is absolutely beautiful, and I love how well it blends in.
Hope you post more soon.

[TriggerDiscipline]

once again, a million thanks to everyone who commented. The factories of course did not let me photograph much, because it is technically a company secret, so I could not do that :/

I am using Creacompo Pattern Magic, but this is of course a Japanese apparel CAD, but any CAD you use will be quite similar and the files can be transferred to other software by changing the file extension when you save.

The piping is to ensure durability, I am really big on clothing that has everything locked in or when garments feel like one complete piece with no removable parts, as it feels more like a concrete object rather than a flat object that becomes occupied.

[TriggerDiscipline]

Hello Everyone,

I hope you are all well during this time of uncertainty.

I am in the midst of creating a new project, it may perhaps not be for everyone but it stays with my original principles. Complete ethical production (no use of slave labor), Quality ecologically friendly sustainable materials and fabrics. Thinking about launching in January, perhaps making a new thread on here just to share but if you are interested in grabbing a sneak peak you can find it on instagram @goodnight.fm

stay tuned,

M