Damir Doma Men's FW11 Paris

[Pumpfish]

Holger, that's not a bad thing in my book, if you look at Dior Homme's last three collections, including today's.

Can't get with the Sinbad boot tuck, but the knitwear is worth a second look.

This doesn't look like a shift for increased sales.

[Macro]

Wow. What a fantastic change. it looks like Damir finally accepted his apprenticeship under Raf. Beautiful restraint, very wearable... I am shocked that i'm even saying this. I would actually wear some of this, and the quality seems to have gotten a big boost.

I see Raf, Ann, and Yohji... but with a mood that is undeniably Damir. I don't really see Dior, but I can understand how one might come to that conclusion. Overall, one of the best shows so far in Paris.

[upsilonkng]

It's like Hans and Franz gone formal..in the 80's. I want to pump you up...
not pumped at all. Is he aware that the male physique is not always made of marshmellows?

[beardown]

KVA is right...but I still sense Damir in there trying to come out.
It's solid, yet boring. Kind of underwhelming when I think about how much I love the DD pants I own and wear regularly. The subtle detailing and anti-fit approach to some of them. The subtly asymmetrical jackets with the wonderful cut and fabric.

It's the subtleties that seem lost. But I do think it's nice to see things a bit more wearable than last season, at least. Even if it does feel like somewhat formal basics to a degree.

I don't know..I just miss 08 and part of 09 and the consistency and wearability of those pieces.
Moment of silence for now.
And also now.

I certainly don't think it's a horrible showing..I'm just disappointed in a way. And I understand the drive to make it a viable business. Silent has come in and done a pretty fantastic job at delivering a lower-end basic (except those horrid jeans) so I'd like to see that line flesh out with more of what old Damir was on a lower level if he keeps that going. And I'm sure this line will find an audience...moreso than the last few seasons at least.

He just seems to be showing a huge amount of restraint in doing this collection. Like he's adhering to the direction of someone in a higher position of power.

[philip nod]

Dd more or less stopped making sense to me in after fw 08. Those ss 08 shorts will always be classic. Don't know what it is or what happened but I feel like every collection I've seen this season except Rick is just off. Trying to look at everything as objectively as I can. I wonder if saturation is playing into it

[cjbreed]

...
I don't know..I just miss 08 and part of 09 and the consistency and wearability of those pieces.
Moment of silence for now.
And also now.

will this put it in perspective didn't it

[Shucks]

i dunno. i feel that this collection brings out a clearer expression of damir's work with volume, which i personally feels has suffered from excessive, and frankly pointless, extra detailing (mittens on shirts and hoodies, strings galore, double lapels on blazers, random layering...). i've often shyed away from buying a damir piece because of this, and those pieces that i do have, i wish would have less of it since i feel it detracts from what i like about the garments which is often a generosity of volume and material.

to me damir comes from quite a different angle than many 'sz' brands and has underneath the clutter in how he has worked with volume shown more of an affinity with late 70s and 80s designers (armani and miyake to name two) and the way i interpret this collection is as an emphatic continuation of that and a reduction of noise.

this collection feels structured and deliberate (less ethereal than previously) and still quite challenging in terms of wearability. i can see how it may be a move away from a "stereotypical" sz sensibility though, and may not win him many fans here...

at the same time, i can't help but appreciate that he refuses to get stuck in the pigeonhole that it was tempting to put him in ('nomads' etc..).

[diamonds]

this collection is really contrary to his previous, in that it looks like many of the pieces are intended to offer some protection. where his previous collections were all about open access to the body through the clothes (holes, slits, mesh, etc)... even the current iteration of mesh (as a vest) looks like a piece of chainmail. other vests with cinched waist that flare out much like the silhouette of samurai armour pieces

[move_ment]

thanks for posting shucks. personally I'm not into the quality of nowfashion's images – quality is poor, but upload is fast. I guess that's the trade-off. anyway, here are some alternatives:

[move_ment]

[kunk75]

some of those duvet coats and bombers are killer

[move_ment]

[move_ment]

[kunk75]

am not sure if the almost ties are bad ass or if he owes eric glennie a royalty check

[diamonds]

am not sure if the almost ties are bad ass or if he owes eric glennie a royalty check

maybe it's HARE x NEIL BARRETT x DAMIR DOMA