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Rick Owens Men's SS12 Paris

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  • messenoire
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 1232

    #16
    i am going to keep initial reactions pretty short because i feel i need to feel this collection out a bit and then express my opinions. but my initial take on this was that it was very demasculating/unexciting(?) for a rick collection. i didnt see the agression or precise cuts i am use to with rick. i am all for skirted trousers but a shapeless full maxi dress is out of my league. a better man than i...

    edit: demasculating is absolutely the wrong word but i can't think of the proper word for what i am feeling. it just seems a lot of the "attack" i am use to in ricks collections isn't present. feeling like youre being overwhelmed by a blackened wave with each look is missing this time around. i feel like with the new "dress" iteration of rick's design is kind of out of step with the rest of his collections. everything thus far has created beautiful layers and that's what i've liked about rick. the precise cuts, finely tailored jackets, heavy black boots, agressive leather work--all abled to be layered one of top of the other and create a dark armor for the wearer. the "dress" just seems out of tune for me. i might feel different come ss 12 but right now this collection is not doing "it" for me.
    Last edited by messenoire; 06-23-2011, 10:28 AM.

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    • Wiggles
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2008
      • 267

      #17
      I agree with what a lot of you have been saying so far. I think this a really nice step out of the shadow that Rick's leather/tee/drop pants/sneakers look has created. I've loved his women's collections because they showcased more of Rick's creativity (my opinion) and allowed for more inventiveness in the wearer (purely because you get more types of garments), and I think this is a great step towards that same creativity for menswear.
      I also don't think that the lack of masculinity (which I don't necessarily agree with) is much of an issue for Rick or many of his clientele.

      Comment

      • kunk75
        Banned
        • May 2008
        • 3364

        #18
        If you think a skirt is masculine when paired with cropped blazers, I will need to see your dictionary.

        Comment

        • Wiggles
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2008
          • 267

          #19
          I'm not saying that - I'm saying that the pieces, when separated for real life use - don't scream "demasculating" to me because of the aggressive details (the full slit skirts, etc)

          Comment

          • Lane
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2010
            • 988

            #20
            hmm, I do like his take on spring summer wear, only because I find it difficult to enjoy rick owens a bit in summer, and this seems like he used some styling from his female line to bring something more interesting to the male one for summer.

            I'm not particularly fond of the shapes of some of the tops, and the all out skirts. However, I love the flowy silhouettes that most of the styles have. That is the particular aspect I love. Also, the fact that he did color a way I could stand behind.

            I think he should have toned down some of the skirts and geometric tops to make it more wearable for men.

            Comment

            • AKA*NYC
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2007
              • 3007

              #21
              are those actually button-up shirts in looks 37-41 or light jackets?
              LOVE THE SHIRST... HOW much?

              Comment

              • cjbreed
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2009
                • 2712

                #22
                Originally posted by Wiggles View Post
                I'm not saying that - I'm saying that the pieces, when separated for real life use - don't scream "demasculating" to me because of the aggressive details (the full slit skirts, etc)
                i don't think it can be reasonably suggested that a skirt or dress can be masculine in any context. at least in the western world (other than a kilt....freedom!)

                well for those of us that were waiting for the mens to catch up with the womens...hooray its here!

                but seriously i don't want to focus on the obvious dress overload. i don't want to reduce the collection to a single component. but i will state that my personal take on it is that rick has always been androgynous and that this is just a continuation on that path. for a designer i think "womens" garments are far more interesting because there are so many more acceptable platforms to express yourself, far beyond trousers + shirt + jacket (oversimplified but u know what i mean). so i can see the appeal in bringing this to mens designs, purely from a creative standpoint.

                BUT. with regard to wearability it is an all time low for me with rick. i am just not comfortable wearing a dress (outside the bedroom). and with good reason. that is not my identity. no matter how evolved and open minded you think you are, clothing still has the power to carry expressions of gender and sexual identity, and thats just not me.

                all that being said i've also never seen rick use blazers so much. this is actually a nice mix of masculine/feminine. i'll just pass on the feminine
                dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                Comment

                • jskidder1
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2011
                  • 461

                  #23
                  This is growing on me quickly. At first I hated it, now I like it, and I'm quite sure that by lunchtime I will love it.

                  Comment

                  • Shucks
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2010
                    • 3104

                    #24
                    just had a more careful look at the kaftans/dresses. i still hesitate to call them dresses, and i just figured out why. not just because i'd be uncomfortable in a dress, but because i think some of them are actually not so feminine (from what i can see). like the way the shoulders are so covered, and how they are cut very straight and not really following the torso, i.e little or no darting or anything. they look more like 'kaftans' or 'robes' to me...

                    i realize that if i decide to wear something like that around where i live, i'll probably end up in street fights about twice a week. still, they look super comfortable...

                    Comment

                    • kunk75
                      Banned
                      • May 2008
                      • 3364

                      #25
                      yeah, well nightshirts are comfy too. seems like the usual designer approach of defining for the wearer what is acceptible where i always felt the great thing about rick was that you could disassemble the runway looks in your own unique way.

                      Comment

                      • cjbreed
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 2712

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Shucks View Post
                        just had a more careful look at the kaftans/dresses. i still hesitate to call them dresses, and i just figured out why. not just because i'd be uncomfortable in a dress, but because i think some of them are actually not so feminine (from what i can see). like the way the shoulders are so covered, and how they are cut very straight and not really following the torso, i.e little or no darting or anything. they look more like 'kaftans' or 'robes' to me...

                        i realize that if i decide to wear something like that around where i live, i'll probably end up in street fights about twice a week. still, they look super comfortable...
                        you could also call it an ankle length shirt. and of course they are comfy. they are awesome. especially in a desert climate

                        dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                        Comment

                        • Shucks
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2010
                          • 3104

                          #27
                          hey, don't knock muslim style. it kicks ass. i mean, shalwar drop crotches and keffiyehs anyone? but a thoub is very different from the rick dresses. a thoub has sleeves and a buttoned collar (but interestingly the longer the thoub, the more important you are...)

                          anyway, back to rick.

                          Comment

                          • xeraphim
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 520

                            #28


















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                            • xeraphim
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2008
                              • 520

                              #29


















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                              • xeraphim
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2008
                                • 520

                                #30


















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