Patternworking question my teacher can't even answer !

[alex.a]

delete

[old]

Hmm...the armhole (you drew) looks quite the opposite to a normal armhole on a suit jacket to me, but my experience would be to limited for an answer to that. I would suggest you to post the problem on the apprentice section of this website, there are quite a few bespoke tailors on there who have answered a lot of my tricky questions.

[Heirloom]

I think the shoulder pad affects how it curves over the shoulder, have you tried steaming and shaping (shaving layers) the shoulder pads? I think also it depends a bit on how you gather the sleevecap before setting it. Perhaps try to not gather so much of the cap behind the shoulder seam, and have more in the front/top.
These are just guesses though.

[Patroklus]

is your sleeve cap symmetrical? ie, same amount of material on both sides of the center line? what about the armscye?

[kagitsune]

You're obviously very hard-working and eager to learn... I'd like to send you over to fashion-incubator.com, so you can unlearn everything you've learned so far. Like I did.

Here's the answer to your problem... it has little to do with the guts. It DOES have everything to do with the pattern.

And here's the follow-up piece.

[Patroklus]

that blog is hit and miss. the sleeve cap ease is bogus article is, uh, a little off the mark, even if its heart is in the right place