Ann Demeulemeester FW13

[messiisgood]

Shes back finally

[messenoire]

it's a breath of fresh air to see ann back. it reminds me of 09. this is my favorite collection from paris so far this season. the boots are fucking killer and i want them immediately. are some of the boots flat sole and some a more chunky combat?

[rider]

divine. relaxed puritan with hats and veils. can i have some more please?

[darkbydesign]

This is also the first Ann D collection I've been excited about in a long while. For me it even has some N(N) influence (or at least, for me it does) so I really love the hats, the patterned textures, jackets, veils, and even a vest or cape here and there. There's a lot I like in this collection relative to her other recent menswear collections, so I'm excited here.

[wurm]

not all is lost with ann. let's just hope the quality back up to snuff too.

[Servo2000]

Photos of the show are now available at SZ Magazine!

[stemcell]

those photos look great

[safeword123]

Style.com
By Matthew Schneier

The invitation to Ann Demeulemeester's new show was a white handkerchief, the backdrop of the stage a scrim of pure white fabric. Fall may call for heavier fabrics and weight, but the collection Demeulemeester presented today was all aflutter. "I didn't want it to be too heavy," she said backstage after the show. "It had to do with making something really serene and spiritual, but also powerful." She had a phrase for it: punk priest.

There was certainly a vestment quality in the constructed waistcoats that trailed trains of shirttail, the long robe coats, and billowing sleeves, some with double cuffs at the end. ("I love cuffs," Demeulemeester shrugged by way of explanation. "I think it gives something beautiful to the hand.") She cautioned that spirituality was linked to no religion or faith. It's more the Church of Ann that her men are the acolytes of. Over the years, she's honed her design signatures into a creed, which may explain why this collection, long on loveliness, felt a bit short on spark. Serenity doesn't carry the shock of the new, and "punk," despite its rip-it-up, start-again connotations, can mean merely independent. That's how Demeulemeester chose to define it. "Free in spirit," she said, "but with a future." Certain recurring details, like the curved, constructed sleeve whose technique was borrowed from couture, and beautiful embroidery throughout, were reminiscent of a confessional window, and pointed toward her own.

It all left you feeling that, yes, a peaceful punk is a powerful one. Demeulemeester is often associated with darkness and shade, but the designer insisted she's a bearer of light. "I'm a very positive person," she said. "I see the side I want to see." She's good at making you see her side, too. The voice on her soundtrack, which had sounded angelically sweet, turned out to be Nick Cave, who lent "O Children" and a new song, yet to be released, for the show. Demeulemeester's vision turns even Bad Seeds good.

[safeword123]

the show's invitation.

[Reveries]

^lol

Really beautiful collection. A lot better and a lot more 'Ann' than her previous few showings. Thanks for the pics.

[casem]

Really nice, it seems lots of designers are returning to their core. A great collection with lots of desirable things but not really a step in a new direction. I'm not sure the big sleeve works on some jackets. For me big sleeves only work if the shape of the rest of the garment is rather round (ie. Balenciaga egg shape), here the sleeves just look ill fitting but luckly not all the jackets appear to be cut like that. Collections like this make me want to dress only in black and white...

[blowdown]

brilliant collection i would say, in love with the layering, havent been an avid Ann supporter, would probably love to own a few pieces...

great pictures too!

[Faust]

those photos look great

I finally bought a good camera and a good lense

[Faust]

As I said before: So much better than the last few season, for me the best FW13 collection so far. Feels like the poets are back. I might actually buy some Ann again.

I like the sounds of that!

It was brilliant and beautiful and oh, so very Ann - her elongated silhouettes, the romantic mood she creates, the tailoring all her own.

[interest1]

Mmm, like beautiful priests . . .