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  • sixledge
    Member
    • Dec 2011
    • 59

    How to finish a raw edge?

    I am new to making clothes and did not go to school for it but wanted to try and make a few small things for fun.

    So far I have gained any even larger appreciation for the clothes I wear as the process has proved to be much more difficult than I imagined.

    However, I did make a t-shirt that fits well but I am looking for tips on how to finish it.

    Are there any methods/tips/tricks I can use to finish a raw cut edge? Around the sleeves and on the collar? I assume I have to fold a new piece of fabric over the edge somehow?
  • The Great Destroyer
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 116

    #2
    There are many ways to go about doing this and since I suppose that you made the T-shirt out of some kind of knit fabric you have a couple of choices depending on the aesthetic you're going for.

    1. Leave the edges raw, obvious but it's worth mentioning that knit fabrics do not ravel like most woven fabrics do. Therefore you can leave all edges raw if you want to. (See Rick, Julius etc.)

    2. The neck can be finished with a strip of Bias-cut (cut on the diagonal) fabric, either cut from the same fabric as the body of the garment or a contrasting one, purely an aesthetic choice, folded over the raw edges. However since the fabric you used probably has some stretchability you would do wise in choosing a fabric with similar or even greater stretchability in order to keep the seams from ripping when you put the t-shirt on.

    3. Like nr2 cut a strip of fabric, fold in two, and sew onto the neckline like a very low collar, look at some of your RTW t-shirts and you should be able to figure it out.

    4. For the hem of the body and the sleeves you can either fold the fabric under itself and topstitch in place or you can follow nr3 and make cuffed sleeves and a ribbed hem (think bomber jacket except smaller). This would probably be the option which provides the "sportiest" look.

    Hope this helps and if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

    Comment

    • sixledge
      Member
      • Dec 2011
      • 59

      #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      I am using a stretchy fabric. It is 98%cotton and 2%spandex.

      I am going to leave the edge on the bottom raw but want to finish the sleeve ends and the neckline.

      I am going to try what you said for the sleeves and fold it under itself.

      For the color, folding the fabric I have found is tricky and also cutting the correct size is tricky.

      After I cut a strip to fold it kind of rolls up and turns into a string and its hard to get it to stay flat....if that makes sense.

      Comment

      • The Great Destroyer
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2010
        • 116

        #4
        Regarding the collar, thats just the nature of single jersey fabric, it does tend to roll when cut on the grain and it's just something you will have to get used to when working with this type of fabric. It does get easier after a couple of tries, I remember cursing heavily when I attempted my first t-shirt myself . You could try to press the strip of fabric in order to make it stay folded, however knit's are harder to "fix" with heat compared wovens. My advice is to just keep at it, if you have some fabric left you from your project you could cut a couple of mock neckline curves and try to finish them this way for practice before attempting to finish the actual garment. Good luck with the t-shirt!

        Comment

        • sixledge
          Member
          • Dec 2011
          • 59

          #5
          Thanks!

          I am going to try some of this tonight with a practice piece.

          Comment

          • The Great Destroyer
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2010
            • 116

            #6
            Sounds good, knit fabrics can be quite tricky to work with if you are not used to it.

            If you have any other questions, regarding this project or another, feel free to ask!

            Comment

            • sixledge
              Member
              • Dec 2011
              • 59

              #7
              Didn't get a chance to work on it last night but will tonight.

              Is a zigzag stitch the preferable stitch when making a T or is it a combination of different stitches?

              Comment

              • The Great Destroyer
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2010
                • 116

                #8
                Preferably you would use a balanced 3 or 4 thread overlock stitch using a overlock machine. However given that you just started out I suppose you only have a regular domestic sewing machine?

                If that's the case, the harsh truth is that no stitch is preferable, only lesser of different kinds of evil. The zig zag stitch will work since it is able to stretch (due to the zig zag pattern). Your machine may have something that it refers to as a overlock stitch, not the same at all as using a overlock machine but it might work. I'd suggest trying a couple of different stitches out on a couple of scraps to see what yields the best results.

                Another option would be to buy a twin needle for your sewing machine. It might work better during construction as well as for topstitching the hems in place depending on your sewing machine. Some machines seam to work fine with twin needles and some don't. The twin needle will sew two rows of straight stitches with the bobbin-thread creating a zig zag on the reverse side of the garment. It is mostly used in order to mimic the coverlock-stiching most RTW t-shirts have on the body and sleeve hems. Also, no matter if you're using a twin or single needle, make sure that the needle is a "ballpoint-needle". A regular needle will create small tears in the fabric which although they may not be noticeable during construction, after a few washes they might get bad enough for your garment to fall apart.

                However if you thought this was a fun project and would like to continue making clothes, especially garments made out of knit fabric, I'd suggest you start looking at overlock machines. They might be a little bit pricier then regular domestic sewing machines but there simply is no other way around it if you want your clothes to have a professional looking finish. Not to mention the fact that it is much easier to work with when it comes to these types of fabrics.

                Phew that was a mouthful . Hope some if it makes sense!

                Comment

                • i-d-g
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2012
                  • 113

                  #9
                  Regarding ribbed fabric..

                  Is it sold just like any other fabric? I've tried looking for it at the fabric shop I go to, and I can't find it.
                  “Man has somehow always feared this search, and I fear it even now. Suppose all man ever does is search for the reason, crosses oceans, sacrifices his life in the search; but to search it out, actually to find it, he’s afraid. For he senses that once he finds it, there will be nothing to search for.”

                  Comment

                  • The Great Destroyer
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 116

                    #10
                    Ribknits of various fibers are sold just like every other fabric. Usually you'll find them where the rest of the knits are. If you're local fabric store does not stock it you should be able to find it online at a decent price, look in the thread for fabric resources and you should find it in one of those stores.

                    Comment

                    • ACM
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2011
                      • 142

                      #11
                      I feel like this only works with certain fiber compositions (particularly with a bit of synthetic), but I messed around with heating the edges of fabric until they ooze and harden. Play around with various compositions. I used a rayon/wool, which stunk terribly, but produced interesting results...

                      Comment

                      • drew
                        Junior Member
                        • Jul 2012
                        • 19

                        #12
                        ^ I assume it's not a particularly flexible hem though? You wouldn't be able to use it as a t shirt collar for example.

                        Comment

                        • ACM
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2011
                          • 142

                          #13
                          right, this would be more appropriate for hems or something that doesn't undergo a lot of stretching or abrasion.

                          Comment

                          • Faye
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2009
                            • 165

                            #14
                            You mean burning the fibres with a lighter? Or with an iron?

                            Comment

                            • franzakhi
                              Junior Member
                              • Mar 2013
                              • 5

                              #15
                              Check out some of my favorite products here! https://rdy.cr/01a48bA garment is not completely well made unless all of the edges are finished and clean. Unles...


                              this video might help you a bit.
                              just ignore her voice or turn your volume to mute...
                              "If you have a choice, do what you want.
                              If you have no choice, do what you need."

                              Comment

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