Hand Made Shoes

[ronald_bne]

Well the time has come to make another set of derbys and boots.

The new leather is in;

Milled full grain vege-tanned cowhide double shoulders. With really nice inconsistancies in the nature texture. Some bits smooth, some like the picture above.

Hopefully this time I can run it through step by step for everyone.

On another note whilst waiting for the above leather, I used some leather I'd been sitting on for a while now to make some slip ons for myself.

The leather is a vege-tanned full grain sheephide with beatuiful natural texture. It is however very difficult to work with as it is really soft and requires lining with another more firm leather. I used vege-tanned calf skin for the lining.

The construction method was a first too. I used a sewing machine for the upper and used cemented construction with nails as the mechanical hold for the insoles/soles. (Kind of like ETS Callatay use)

They turned out OK, the true test with be once I start wearing them.






Stay tuned for more updates!

[holger]

......

[ronald_bne]

Uppers half complete for derby.
Semi-lined/puffed at toe, heel and tongue.
Currently held together with glue.



Next step, hand stitch over the glued together areas.

[ronald_bne]

Just a quick update.

Stitching for the derby uppers is complete. Each hole is pre-punched then stitched using needles and a 3 cord thread.

Detail shot of the stitching;



Also started on the insoles and finished the holdfast/feather on one.

Four more to go;

[old]

The slip-ons look absolutely covetable, much more so than many designer shoes out there, good job!!

[ronald_bne]

Thanks to everyone for the kinds words!

Another update;

Before lasting the uppers you attach the insole you feathered to the last with nails.
Then you basically pull the upper over the last and hammer in nails all around the edge.

Here is a picture of one side in the process of being lasted. You have to go to different points on the edge to obtain a nice even pull. By that I mean you don't start at one point and work your way sequentially around.



Easily the hardest and probably most time consuming bits of the construction is attaching the rand. You use your awl and go through the holes you made earlier in the feather, piercing the upper and rand. Then you sew through the hole you just made doubling over each stitch. This time round it took me forever, the leather I'm using is thick and its doubled over at toe and heel making those parts a tricky exercise. Once done cut away the excess leather carefully.

Anyways here is one finished with the rand attached;

[ronald_bne]

Well the second hardest bit is now complete on both shoes... the welt.

The way I do my shank means I need to attach it to the sole first with screws. I then glue the sole to the rest of the shoe. When the glue dries I cut into and peel back about 3/4cm of the sole around the edge. (about 1-2mm deep) This will conceal my welt for an overall tidier look and also protect it.

Heres a shot during the welting, notice the telltale hand welt stripes;



After welt toes;



The concealment method with the welt looks like this afterwards;



We are on the home straight.
Next is heel building...

[Chinorlz]

Keep on posting man! This is awesome to follow!!!!

[ronald_bne]

Cheers dude! Same goes out to you! I always enjoy seeing what new stuff Collateral Concepts is up to!

[ronald_bne]

I apologise in advance for not taking progress shots of these steps. I went to my parents shed to work on them and had no camera.

So the heels...

Cut out a rough square and rasp each side of the heel layer to ensure that the glue works the best it can. Apply glue to both sides wait about 30min. then attach. Wait 15min. then cut off the excess and use the layer above it as a guide. Use a very very very sharp knife otherwise this step can be a nightmare. Once its nicely cut to the shape above it, hammer a few (10 or so) nails into your layer. Then we start again at cutting another square. Build the heel up as high as you like.

After this I dye them. Self explanatory really, you apply the dye with whatever your heart desires. Different things apply the dye with differing effects.

Leave at least 24 hours for heel glue to dry.

Then we dunk them in water. (Or dye if object dying) These ones I left soaking for about 2 hours. (With dye I'd leave them in much longer so the shoes soak it up better) When ready remove from water, drip dry then shape the shoes to your hearts content.

Once 2/3's dry you can apply wear/fade with various things/chemicals, ill keep mine a secret. This step also involves polishing, conditioning and brunishing the heels with a wooden slick.

And after all that, you end up with this;







All that remains is the laces, aglets, dust bags and box.
Then we start the low boots.

[holger]

amazing

[treasurehoard]

Brilliant work! Everything looks fantastic. Keep going!

[ronald_bne]

C'est la fin.







I might treat the laces lightly later, but at the moment I like the contrast of distressed and fresh.

Now Onto the boots.

[ninetails999]

c'est magnifique!

[Lohikaarme]

Those black slipons are great. Wish you would sell the shoes you make

[ronald_bne]

Whilst working on the other shoes, I thought I'd try something new.

Some Jeans.

I purchased some really nice Japanese denim locally, worked out a pattern, tried it out with calico then made the real thing.

I am by no means a tailor, but I am happy with the result.
Oh yea, I rode the "selvage" bandwagon, but mainly because I don't have an overlocker.
I zigzagged the other ends or used binding.

Anyways here's how they turned out...

[boandaropax]

Your work is fantastic! Hello another Aussie from down under :D

I work with leather but not with footwear. I would love to learn how to get to your level. Please don't stop making these shoes, they're gorgeous.

[Exarcis]

How do the jeans fit? I'd love to see a picture of you in the jeans and shoes.

[Chinorlz]

Keep it up man! You're developing all the skills and materials expertise which can be applied to any designs you come up with down the road!

[Rei]

It's interesting to see the process and materials/tools used. And considering you've just started the pieces look great. Especially liking the slip ons.