Rick Owens S/S 15 - Men's, Paris

[lowrey]

Highlights: http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2014/06/r...ns-ss15-paris/

[mrbeuys]

From Dazed:

In the details:

Hairstylist and long-time Owens collaborator Luigi Murenu parted hair haphazardly, in a way that suggested David Lynch’s Elephant Man. Styling was intentionally disorderly, with garments almost falling off the body and jackets deconstructed and flung around the waist like harnesses. Speaking backstage, Owens said that the collaboration with a step team for his SS14 womenswear show opened his eyes to what he called "the euphoria of the unity of a team," which influenced his decision to cast his own studio team and staff for AW14. This season, he "narrowed the focus even further to an individual person in our team called Benoit. All of the embroideries are based on drawings he had done for me and Michèle [Lamy – his wife and business partner], they are just kind of notes to me and Michèle around the house," Owens said.

Peep show:

"I was thinking about the ballet Afternoon of a Faun, choreographed by Nijinsky. It basically all culminates with this faun masturbating on a nymph’s scarf, so everybody in the audience, with all their jewels, are just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!" – Rick Owens.

[lowrey]

full show: http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/mens...ng-summer-2015

[morsto]

It has become an interesting thing making opinion about rick collections - stores buy the safe pieces, which are barely shown on the runway anyway, hence making the runway shows somehow a tangent to the actual buyable pieces. Anyhow, I find this entirely disinteresting, except for look 31 on the GQ page. The footwear looks clumsy as fuck. The prints look as if they are nicely done (while the motif is not my cup of tea). Surely there will be some nice pieces in there somewhere, looking forward to one of you boys reporting form the showroom

[ryanhast]

Very colorful.
I like how on some of those shirts it looks like he peeled away the top layer to show another world inside. Like this one:



My first thought was that it reminded me of old anatomy drawings where the artist drew the skin peeled back.

[curiouscharles]

doing as my momma taught me is going to be hard on this one.

on that note, i'll wait to hear showroom impressions before deciding anything about this show.

one of those harnesses over a SS sleeveless, all under a light SS jacket is making a nice little look in my head, but nothing else is grabbing me at the moment.

[interest1]

It has become an interesting thing making opinion about rick collections - stores buy the s̶a̶f̶e̶ Pre-Collection pieces, which are barely shown on the runway anyway, hence making the runway shows somehow a tangent to the actual buyable pieces. Anyhow, I find this entirely disinteresting, except for look 31 on the GQ page. The footwear looks clumsy as fuck. The prints look as if they are nicely done (while the motif is not my cup of tea). Surely there will be some nice pieces in there somewhere, looking forward to one of you boys reporting form the showroom

Fixed.

Those 'safe' (i.e. sellable) pieces are actually found in Pre-Collection, which is where most retailers do their heaviest buying from. It's the bread & butter of each season, whereas Runway is the fancy appetizer – there to create hunger, not necessarily satisfy it.
Yet none of it is possible without Runway. Ironic, innit? :)


BTW, someone needs to take a razor to that hairy leg up there before I jump off a cliff.

[Vanna]

The hairier the better.

[deltapie]

Up on Now Fashion as well: http://nowfashion.com/rick-owens-men...015-paris-9348

Some of the painted guys remind me of Pinhead from Hellraiser. That being said, I love that purple'ish almost burgundy color on the tunic above.

[interest1]

The hairier the better.

no way, jose. smooooth & silky!

[jogu]

hullo there ill take 1 of everything please ( specially that double breasted coat )

[messenoire]

the hair by luigi is on point and reminiscent of julien d'ys work with comme des garcons. the painted models seem like a nod to la plaete sauvage which rick has mentioned in interviews. the shoes look like they could be interesting but i hate the shape of the runner sole, they look like another adidas collab coming down the pipe due to the toe box. the heaviness of the collection seems close to the drkshdw line, painted denim tanks(?),but reminds me of older rick which is really okay in my book as the sporty fabrics of vicious dont do anything for the aggressive nature that i've come to love in the rick i adore. i'm a sucker for the harnesses and really hope they come in leather and not some sporty tech fabric. the diaper looks are a bit silly but within the context of the story told they make sense, i'm sure they're some brilliantly soft material that can be used for multiple things, hopefully just not a diaper. i dont care for the prints but i'm sure others will. overall i like the collection and think it's a step forward from the short shorts and cut out shit from vicious. i still pine for the rick i fell in love with and i know the elements are all still there but i am allowed to lament none the less.

[radio-aktivität]

Does anybody know if the sneakerboots are part of a new adidas collaboration? their soles look a lot like those of adidas’ springblade running shoes (link)

Well, I like the rest! the peeled-skin-effect ryan mentioned especially, even the color schemes —*yes. I wonder if the blue denim will generate some more peacock moments in the Cult.

[Shucks]

i actually think the colors are very pretty.* and all that humpable silk. the embroidery is very luxe. nice to see it continue from moody.

am mightily curious if this manages to turn into a streetfaun trend.



*not on me though

[excelsiom]

Does anybody know if the sneakerboots are part of a new adidas collaboration? their soles look a lot like those of adidas’ springblade running shoes (link)

they are. upon close-ups, you may see the perforated tristripe.



they also lace-up underneath the velcro panel.