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Rick Owens S/S 15 - Men's, Paris

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  • Shucks
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2010
    • 3104

    Comment

    • GucciAmen
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2014
      • 363

      Originally posted by Shucks View Post
      he's been aiming for the mainstream all along. just deal with it. how many times does it need to be explained...
      Apologies, but I think I'm focusing more on the fact that due to increased publicity, demand, and sales for his clothing over the years has resulted in a deterioration of his work (at least for me). I don't mean "mainstream" in the sense that it is his vision that is the culprit, rather, I think the issue of how popular he has become over the years (high fashion rap for example ). Maybe he has less motivation to keep his work, I don't know... desirable, due to the fact that people buy up his staple pieces irregardless.

      Comment

      • GucciAmen
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2014
        • 363

        Originally posted by casem View Post
        I just don't see this at all. If anything, his runway shows have gotten more and more idiosyncratic and less and less wearable (or mainstream). Yes, his bread and butter is the same wearable leather/tees/sweats we see retailers picking up, but we can't really blame him for that. If he continues to grow, I see the end point as some kind of Comme Des Garçon model, complete creative freedom maintained at the top level supported by a number of more commercial lines and products.
        What don't you see? I'm agreeing with you haha, I'm not a fan of the growing disconnect between his unwearable runway collections and the banal collections that actually get bought. I only stated that I liked how he was inspired by one of my favourite classical pieces. There is little innovation on his part nowadays (that is wearable, keep in mind), as what I see in online shops are countless reiterations of his "bestsellers" like a new upper for his geobaskets and the same staples popping up in different shades. I think there can be some blame on his part, as he is not really designing many new pieces that are on the same level as the pieces that got him famous in the first place (the pieces that are actually being bought by buyers). Faun seemed to be like an exhibition of abstract art on models to me... I really was a fan of his past work and love my intarsia so I'm not just trying to tear him down senselessly.

        Comment

        • Shucks
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2010
          • 3104

          guess u've been asleep during both seasons of 2014 - new silhouettes (for rick), new materials, new leathers and new coats, new decorations and new footwear.

          i hate these general "rick has gotten so much worse" blanket statements that keep cropping up here like weeds every six months or so. it's such a hipster thing to say, implying that u were there when it all started and that u are real and no one else is. that's just ridiculous. anna wintour was into rick before all of us and tons of stuff u see in faun were part of his earliest collections. he started his brand in the mid nineties (crust isn't "old rick") and we are ALL late to the party.

          if your idea of pinnacle design is an intarsia, i think maybe you would be better off buying bbs.

          or u could try to stop clinging so nervously on to some artificial excuse of 'wearability' and innovate a little more in how u dress urself. it's all 'wearable', man. it's clothes. just wear them.
          Last edited by Shucks; 01-08-2015, 02:19 AM. Reason: typo

          Comment

          • upsilonkng
            Senior Member
            • May 2010
            • 874

            to be fair Crust is the first Rick men's show, he had men in other shows and great seasons before though the 90's stuff is still 90's stuff to me.
            For me it's Crust and it's for many reasons stated above, it brought me in so i have personal affection for it, and it looks the best and has some of the best versions of things he's done since or before. Though month by month i've discovering and owning more stuff from stag, exploder etc.. what doesn't happen is owning more stuff from ss14/fw14/ss15 i hope fw15 will shut me up.
            Of course it's all wearable.. this is not a great point, as our only reference of "runway" stuff is people wearing it ...on this runway. How that applies to ur life is a personal decision. I have no interest in wearing a leather onesie, is it wearable? yes, on rick's runway and maybe in a torture chamber where im playing a leather daddyBaby. when that day arrives and i have a spare $4000 for it, it'll certainly happen, i'm sure.
            not sure why intarsia and bbs have anything in common, u can explain if u like. I really don't want to address u shucks but maybe u can answer a question or speak ur mind w/out trying to be so confrontational or at least throw some humor in there so it doesn't always read so angry.

            Comment

            • Shucks
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2010
              • 3104

              Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
              I really don't want to address u shucks but maybe u can answer a question or speak ur mind w/out trying to be so confrontational or at least throw some humor in there so it doesn't always read so angry.
              ok i will try. :)


              Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
              to be fair Crust is the first Rick men's show, he had men in other shows and great seasons before though the 90's stuff is still 90's stuff to me.
              actually to be fair it was dustulator three years earlier...

              Last edited by Shucks; 01-08-2015, 06:29 AM.

              Comment

              • Soul Pill
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2011
                • 124

                Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
                I really don't want to address u shucks but maybe u can answer a question or speak ur mind w/out trying to be so confrontational or at least throw some humor in there so it doesn't always read so angry.
                Fuck that - I didn't get where I am today by diluting opinions so people don't get offended. I think Anger is the greatest of emotions, and can be very constructive.

                I agree that the whole exploder, creatch, stag, strutter, crust collections were a fertile time, when Rick was establishing his popularity, but the newer collections show a more minimal aesthetic, which is what I liked about Rick in the first place. As you mentioned it, the Moody onesie/jumpsuit is a case in point, looks incredibly minimal, as do some of the tunics this season, and he has updated it for this season with a slightly gathered waist - he's always refining cuts season after season. Some you might not like (e.g. bauhaus sleeve buttons) but he's still got it imo. I just think his inspirations don't always gel with his 'crust' audience and the runway presentation just isn't what they want to see.

                Anyway, everything's still available in the pre-collection.

                Comment

                • upsilonkng
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2010
                  • 874

                  thanks shucks! ur right, and I've never actually watched that whole show before, it's quite good. Anyone know what the music is?

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    Originally posted by Soul Pill View Post
                    Fuck that - I didn't get where I am today by diluting opinions so people don't get offended. I think Anger is the greatest of emotions, and can be very constructive.
                    In doses of a certain size. But continuously going at each other is not healthy.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      Ha, I had a jacket from Dustulator! The black puffy patchwork one. It was awesome.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • DudleyGray
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2013
                        • 1143

                        It's certainly a lot safer to be into old Rick. It's withstood a test of time, and you know which pieces retain their value and anything you buy used you can pretty much sell at a similar price. New Rick is risky, you could end up just looking like a fashion victim, and you're going to lose a good chunk of your money even on sale.

                        That said, I think the core of Faun is fucking brilliant and it's my favorite collection of his for the past couple years. I think it shows Rick's subversive spirit much better than if he put out more #darkfashun drapey layers. I love the inspiration, vision, and execution of Faun's central ideas, and Rick's rationale put it over the top for me from like to love. I'm hoping that the stuff I like will go to deep discount because everyone hates Faun, even or maybe especially the stuff that's not black. My only real gripe is that I wish he had made his own animal feet–inspired shoes for men like he did for the women. But then there's always women's stuff that I wish he had made in men's sizes.
                        bandcamp | facebook | youtube

                        Comment

                        • Shucks
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2010
                          • 3104

                          Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
                          thanks shucks! ur right, and I've never actually watched that whole show before, it's quite good. Anyone know what the music is?
                          it's interesting that you were unaware of the fact that he had been doing menswear shows for three years before you claimed his first one to be. it makes me wonder somewhat how much of an interest/knowledge you actually have of his work, even though you seem very confident when you express opinions about it. but i'm glad you enjoyed the link!

                          dudley nice post. variations in individual levels of risk aversion is a big factor in how people perceive his work, i agree.

                          Comment

                          • GucciAmen
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2014
                            • 363

                            Originally posted by Shucks View Post
                            guess u've been asleep during both seasons of 2014 - new silhouettes (for rick), new materials, new leathers and new coats, new decorations and new footwear.

                            i hate these general "rick has gotten so much worse" blanket statements that keep cropping up here like weeds every six months or so. it's such a hipster thing to say, implying that u were there when it all started and that u are real and no one else is. that's just ridiculous. anna wintour was into rick before all of us and tons of stuff u see in faun were part of his earliest collections. he started his brand in the mid nineties (crust isn't "old rick") and we are ALL late to the party.

                            if your idea of pinnacle design is an intarsia, i think maybe you would be better off buying bbs.

                            or u could try to stop clinging so nervously on to some artificial excuse of 'wearability' and innovate a little more in how u dress urself. it's all 'wearable', man. it's clothes. just wear them.
                            I didn't intend to be confrontational whatsoever with my original post, I hope it did not come off that way... Furthermore, I also do not consider myself to be knowledgeable or authoritative on the subject AT ALL, I'm just trying to contribute to the discussion and provide my own thoughts.

                            I understand that he has released new pieces as of late and definitely has introduced new works to the runway, like, for example, the "appliques" on a few of the pieces for faun. They seem to be on a different level almost (to me), more experimental (even radical ) perhaps? I think people who were fans of his work in crust and the like, may have a tough time incorporating his loud/colourful/applique pieces into their wardrobe (which have taken up the spotlight in faun).

                            When I first got into SZ designers, I explored Rick's past work, as that's what attracted me first, he was all I really knew when I started out. I fell in love with his uniform/black style and the silhouettes he worked with prior, but faun seems to be in a different ballpark to me.

                            I did not state that my leather (intarsia) was the "pinnacle" of his work, I just said that I do have a piece of his that I thoroughly enjoy (material, fit are spot on)... I just wanted to add that in so I did not sound like someone who has never appreciated his work.

                            In terms of wearability.. I understand your point, and I do enjoy possessing interesting pieces, but much of faun just came off as odd to me, (no offence) like I could never see anyone wearing it outside of a fashion show. I did like the runway from an art perspective, but not from a buyer perspective. Albeit, there were a few pieces that did look presentable and fine, but pieces like this,



                            and this,



                            just don't appeal to me like pieces from his past seasons did.

                            Comment

                            • upsilonkng
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2010
                              • 874

                              Originally posted by Shucks View Post
                              it's interesting that you were unaware of the fact that he had been doing menswear shows for three years before you claimed his first one to be. it makes me wonder somewhat how much of an interest/knowledge you actually have of his work, even though you seem very confident when you express opinions about it. but i'm glad you enjoyed the link!

                              dudley nice post. variations in individual levels of risk aversion is a big factor in how people perceive his work, i agree.
                              cool i guess u went right back into being semi passive aggressive..
                              well u were right that dustulator is before crust, but then that's as far as i know his first actual all men's runway, at least on video and what not. of course i'm aware of moog and others but most of that stuff doesn't interest me so much. i've owned stuff from moog and recently bought something from dustulator i just didn't know there was an actual video for it, i've seen all the pics but i assumed it was the same as others around then w/ men's and women's and while there's some cool stuff what came after is better to me.

                              I know things of course but i learn thru this way, see/feel/try/use, so yeah i am opinionated about Rick but I've probably have owned as much over the last 4-5 years as anyone here because that's how i function, i don't get attached to any physical things, they make me happy but the physical knowledge fulfills my curiosity and that's the main thing for me.

                              I've always moved from one field to another mostly out of curiousity which =need, before this it was music gear ( i could tell u what the correct colors of the diodes in a fuzz face by year, the correct neck glue/screws used on a 60's strat as opposed to a 70's strat, i can tell if the hiwatt tranny is the original one by smell etc..) and records (free jazz/prog) before that, Air Jordans before that and during all of this guitar playing and basketball. And what i learned by getting good at those things w/out having any kind of collector mentality is see/feel/try/use then u have actual knowledge that u acquired as opposed to reading about someone's experience or opinion i'd rather form my own. Another thing w/out fail i learned is that the first time anyone makes something is usually the best, when they remake something due to it's popularity it usually is as cheap as possible and only appear the part, outside of records this is true of clothing, shoes, music gear. This is different than some things that Rick is constantly perfecting and using different materials season after season to find the right one or fill the needs of someones right one, like drop crotch stuff pants/shorts, basics (one year he used 79%viscose 21% silk instead of the usual 85%viscose, 15% silk).

                              So yeah if u want to know how a cotton rick shirt fits differently from 06 to 07 then to 08 etc i would be the guy to ask, if u want to know how a certain leather from crust or stag or gleam or release or limo feels or fits u could ask me.If u want to know which Parka is the warmest or fits the best I've had each and every one(it's not the newer drkshdw stuff). so yeah i am interested and i am gathering info on the things that interest me, thanks for asking.
                              Last edited by upsilonkng; 01-08-2015, 06:54 PM.

                              Comment

                              • interest1
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2008
                                • 3351

                                Originally posted by Shucks View Post

                                it's interesting that you were unaware of the fact that he had been doing menswear shows for three years before you claimed his first one to be. it makes me wonder somewhat how much of an interest/knowledge you actually have of his work,
                                even though you seem very confident when you express opinions about it. but i'm glad you enjoyed the link!

                                Way to take an olive branch and snap it in half. Jeez.
                                Last edited by interest1; 01-09-2015, 01:26 AM. Reason: spelt it wong.
                                .
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