Rick Owens Womens S/S 2017

[mrbeuys]

My favourite Rick collection in a long time. Might have something to do with the presentation, i.e. the music, but this was just so elegant and unreal.

[casem]

Really gorgeous and elegant. I happened to catch the live stream earlier, the music was also great. Rick is transcendent lately.

[Verdandi]

Most of this is gorgeous. I already liked the mens a lot more than I've liked anything Mr Owens has done in years but this takes it a step further. It's always nice to see him use bold colors - Scorpio is still a personal favorite of mine but what really excites me is that this collection has some of that old flowing Madame Gres inspiration he used to reference so frequently in his early days.

He just can't do shoes. Those are terrible as usual.

[Caetano]

Agreed with the shoes, terribly ugly. Can´t wait to see the details, he used murano glass according to the video briefing. Very emotional collection and stunningly beautiful in many levels. The clouds of fabric, the music.. Guess he became more of a sculptor, rather than a fashion designer.

[Guun]

I really enjoyed this. Draping was beautiful. Much better than the mens.

Also, I really liked the music - fit very well with the show.

[Guun]

Description for those who haven't seen it:

AS ALWAYS, THE WOMEN’S COLLECTION SHARES THE SAME NAME AS ITS MEN’S COUNTERPART— AND THIS SPRING’S NAME IS ‘WALRUS’. THE IDEA OF USING THE NAME OF AN ALIEN-LOOKING CREATURE SO FAR REMOVED FROM OUR EVERYDAY WORLD HELPS ME THINK OF MAKING CLOTHES IN THE CONTEXT OF AN ETERNITY OF ANTHROPOLOGICAL CYCLES AND FRAGILE ECOLOGICAL BALANCES. I AM REMINDED OF, AND SOMEWHAT COMFORTED BY, OUR MINUSCULE PRESENCE IN THAT TRAJECTORY.

FRAGILITY IS WHAT I WAS GOING FOR THIS SEASON. BLOBS OF LINEN TULLE AND THREADWORN T-SHIRT JERSEY ARE HAPHAZARDLY DRAPED AND SWAGGED, TWISTED AND WRAPPED AROUND THE BODY, GENTLY AND SOFTLY DISTORTING IT.

CROPPED JACKETS CONSTRUCTED OF TULLE AND BUCKRUM SCAFFOLDING ARE A BLUNT AMERICAN’S CRUDE INTERPRETATION OF DELICATE ART NOUVEAU PARISIAN CONFECTION.

BREEZY WINDBREAKERS ARE CUT IN GERMAN HORSHAIR ORIGINALLY PRODUCED IN THE 18TH CENTURY TO REPLACE SILK AND LATER USED FOR CRINOLINES. THE WEFT OF THE FABRIC IS WOVEN FROM THE STRANDS OF A HORSE’S TAIL AND RESULTS IN A VOLUME THAT HAS THE BRITTLE TEXTURE OF SPUN SUGAR.

‘FOG COATS’ ARE PRODUCED BY MAISON LEMARIÉ, THE LEGENDARY PARISIAN PLUMASSIER, FROM INDIVIDUAL OSTRICH STRANDS THAT HAVE BEEN HAND-KNOTTED END-TO-END AND THEN MOUNTED BY THE THOUSANDS ON SILK GAZAR COATS. THIS IS A TECHNIQUE INVENTED FOR THE FIRST REVILLON COLLECTION I DID YEARS AGO AND, FROM WHAT LEMARIÉ TELLS ME, NEVER DONE BY ANYONE ELSE.

EXTRA LONG GLASS BUGLE BEADS CUSTOM MADE IN MURANO SKETCH OUT A RADIATING MOTIF ON THICK COTTON MANTLES THAT HAVE A SLIT IN THE BACK TO ALLOW THEM TO BE WORN ARMS-FREE AS AN ABSTRACT PONCHO. THESE PONCHO/MANTLES ARE HAND-TINTED WITH DEGRADE FIELDS OF YELLOW, MAUVE, BLACK, AND LIGHT GRAY— THE PREVAILING COLORS OF THE COLLECTION. SOME HAVE SABLE FUR WHIRLPOOL APPLIQUES.

SHORTS HAVE EXTENDED PANELS IN FRONT AND BACK TO PROVIDE A HINT OF EXTRAVAGANT ABANDON. BOOTS AND SHOES HAVE A NARROW AND EXTENDED SQUARED-OFF TOE, LIKE A SQUASHED TAIL PIPE, WITH SOME STYLES BANDED WITH OUR MURANO TURBO BUGLE BEADS.

GROWING UP IN 1970S SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, HALTER TOPS, CUTOFFS, AND HIKING BOOTS SEEMED THE MOST FREE-SPIRITED AND LOGICAL OUTFIT FOR THE MOUNTAIN GIRLS I KNEW, WHICH ALWAYS STUCK WITH ME AS THE MOST MODEST AND PRACTICAL APPROACH TO DRESSING IN WARM WEATHER. BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THIS COLLECTION IS AN ELABORATION OF THAT FORMULA.

NINA SIMONE PROVIDES THE SOUNDTRACK WITH HER MODERNIST INTERPRETATION OF THE CLASSICAL FOLK SONG ‘BLACK IS THE COLOR OF MY TRUE LOVE’S HAIR’, AND ‘WILD IS THE WIND’— SONGS OF FRAGILE TENDERNESS… I LISTEN TO NINA EVERY DAY…

[Lex1017]

The draping was lovely. Those Ostrich coats seamed so dense and heavy looking but flowed so well. Really liked the colours. His pattern grader must be a masochist.

[mrbeuys]

Those show notes just remind me why I love Rick so much. There might be some post rationalising but it's because his universe is already so complete and he can do a lot of things on instinct. Just when I had lost interest, this pulls me back in.

[scanner]

I loved it until it went back to the weird experimental stuff that I was hoping would de-mutate back to the beginning.

That said, the work ebbed and flowed beautifully and I think there is an underlying emotional element that is finally starting to seep out of each design, rather than look at random.

[Faust]

This aesthetic works so much better for women than men. This was beautiful, ethereal. Thumbs up.

[Lex1017]

Speaking of the draping, Faust do you know when the video of him doing the draping at the factory he spoke to you about is coming out?/Who is putting it out?

[Ahimsa]

Rick-Owens-SS17-Womens-Paris_2016_5_StyleZeitgeist.jpg

Rick Owens SS17 by Julien Boudet for StyleZeitgeist
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[ahn]

Agreed with the shoes, terribly ugly.

I just don't understand the point of the slit open at the toe on the boots? I know this is an S/S collection but boots and summer are not good bedfellows - and open toed boots in winter just leave you with wet socks.

In any case I just adored this as a whole. I've never wanted to be swathed more in an overwhelming amount of draping in my life, which is amusing since I'm in the best shape of my life right now and would otherwise want to emphasize this through more fitted ensembles.

[Krull]

I really liked this season's women collection. It wasn't very 'Rick' but good nontheless

[mrbeuys]

It wasn't very 'Rick' but good nontheless

What does that mean? I think it was very Rick. You mean no drop crotch pants and geobaskets?