Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Maison Martin Margiela

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    /\ Thanks for this!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • ittalidaa
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2009
        • 313


        click to enlarge (source: my tumblr / cotonblanc.tumblr.com)

        In 1999, a book entitled Street Magazine Maison Martin Margiela Special Volumes 1 & 2 traced the first 10 years of the fashion house that Martin Margiela founded in 1988. By the end of that decade, this Belgian designer from Antwerp had made his mark on the fashion world. His first attempt to penetrate the international market was made as one of a group of six graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Art. Soon, Margiela stood out as the leading light of the Belgian school. After the success of the Japanese designers in the 70s, it was the Belgians who internationalised fashion design, promulgating their avant-garde vision around the world.

        Martin Margiela introduced a new aesthetic that foreshadowed the trends of the 90s, shaking up the fashion system and redefining its principles of communication. His “more-than-meets-the-eye approach” was the opposite of the “show off” attitude of the previous decade, which he had spent working as an assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier (1984 to 1987). Starting from the premise of recycling old garments, he deconstructs them to restyle them: the outer fabric and the lining are separated to become vest and dress; a patchwork of old scarves forms a pareu to be worn over jeans transformed into skirts or painted white; a jumper is made out of army socks and dresses out of taped-together plastic slipcovers, all with an economy of means which evokes the deprivation of wartime and depression. Margiela dares to include in his collections copies of old clothes with their origin indicated on the label (a rare forthrightness in a profession in which many designers find their inspiration at the flea market but neglect to mention it). But his suits, jackets and coats also show his capacity to rethink a garment’s structure without any external references. He is also a proponent of the poetry of the unfinished. Art Press magazine quotes him as saying, “I love fashion when it is still in the sketch stage.”

        Margiela’s fashion show also stray from the traditional, showcasing his designs in unexpected settings such as a vacant lot, the corridors of a disused tube station, the Paris headquarters of the Salvation Army, et cetera. In 1993, as a protest against the artificial routine of semi-annual fashion shows, he organised a sale in an abandoned supermarket of designs chosen from his old collections. In 1994, he replaced the customary runway show with a happening featuring live models in store display windows. In 1997, for an exhibit at the Boijmans Van Beningen Museum in Rotterdam, Margiela installed store-window mannequins outside the building wearing dresses which had undergone biological decomposition. This is typical of the self-effacing attitude of this designer who strives to remain anonymous, proclaiming that “the garment and its wearer are more important than the stylist who designed it”.

        In 1998, his appointment as art director of Hermès women’s ready-to-wear drew the attention of the international press. 1999 was marked by the launch of a men’s collection called “10”, a mysterious title in keeping with the image of this celebrity with the unknown face.

        Black and white knit jumper with anatomical stitching, vest in broken crockery on metal wire, long skirt made from a pair of jeans, ankle boots inspired by Japanese tabis.
        Martin Margiela (1989)

        ANDAM: La Mode Contemporaine, STEIDL
        text florence müller photography ola bergengren styling mattias karlsson
        http://cotonblanc.tumblr.com http://lacollectionneuse.tumblr.com

        Comment

        • interest1
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2008
          • 3351




          devotion
          .
          sain't
          .

          Comment

          • jamesmartin
            Junior Member
            • May 2013
            • 1

            Originally posted by soultek View Post
            Apparently the Margiela store is opening in LA next month..
            wow! great post.

            Comment

            • interest1
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2008
              • 3351

              many, many moons ago

              .
              sain't
              .

              Comment

              • interest1
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2008
                • 3351


                First show
                .
                sain't
                .

                Comment

                • ittalidaa
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2009
                  • 313



                  At Martin Margiela, the lining is the dress.
                  http://cotonblanc.tumblr.com http://lacollectionneuse.tumblr.com

                  Comment

                  • interest1
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2008
                    • 3351

                    .
                    sain't
                    .

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      This was after the H&M collaboration came out.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • interest1
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2008
                        • 3351

                        Originally posted by Faust View Post

                        This was after the H&M collaboration came out.

                        I thought the "OUR MISERY NOT YOURS!" was 'well put'.






                        snapped by me, somewhere in No-man's-land
                        .
                        sain't
                        .

                        Comment

                        • Techd
                          Junior Member
                          • Aug 2013
                          • 21

                          Mr. Margiela is at the moment presenting an exhibition of old clothes at Bukowskis in Stockholm. I went and took some pictures.

                          "Bukowskis has the great pleasure of presenting an exhibition that showcases a unique collection of pieces by Maison Margiela – some thirty originals from the most revolutionary collections of the 1990s."





                          Short top without sleeves from white, cropped men's shirt. Cotton.
                          Collection 0. Circa late 1990s.

                          Comment

                          • Techd
                            Junior Member
                            • Aug 2013
                            • 21




                            Dress-jacket sewed together from two inverted jackets. Lining fabric for sleeves. Chains along neck, buttoning and lower end. Wool, viscose, polyester.
                            Collection 0. Circa late 1990s.

                            Comment

                            • Techd
                              Junior Member
                              • Aug 2013
                              • 21



                              Top made from front of striped pyjamas. Tied in the back with band. Cotton.
                              Production ARTISANALE.
                              Spring/summer 1995.

                              Comment

                              • Techd
                                Junior Member
                                • Aug 2013
                                • 21



                                Slip with lace border where front has been donned with silver film. Polyester.
                                Collection 0. Spring/summer 2003.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎