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  • sbw4224
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 571

    #31
    Re: Patrik Ervell



    Ah, I didn't mean to misconstrue your words, Faust. I guess my skimming of posts leads to me getting things all mixed up [:)]. Personally, I probably wouldn't ever buy any of Ervell's things. It's just not me.



    And I think anyone that lives in NYC is spoiled! You guys have access to some of the best stores and sales in the world! Even with being one state away, it can be hard to get to the city. Before I digress further, I'll end here. [:P]

    Comment

    • Servo2000
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 2183

      #32
      Re: Patrik Ervell

      [quote user="Faust"]

      True, true - definitely not for me. The term youthful is kind of loaded though. I love youthful, I don't like juvenile. Youthful is young but mature, juvenile lacks seriousness - I guess that's the best way I can put it.



      [/quote]



      Don't worry, Faust, I see exactly what you mean. Raf Simons, even before you posted what he said, was exactly what I was thinking of when I was thinking of a more "grown up" example of this. Raf Simons might've been on another level in the first place, but conceptually, at least, he's the 'adult' version of what seems to be the philosophy (from a visual standpoint) behind these pieces. I certainly agree with all of your criticisms as regards much of the work, and for trying to avoid being "derivative," as you said on TFS, it certainly speaks of Chalayan.



      Obviously, as much as we have in common taste-wise, we also have our differences. I also believe that I overloaded the word "basics" when I was using it. Here, I was referring to 'slots' in my wardrobe that need to be filled to even be called a wardrobe; i.e. a nice pair of dress pants. Not necessarily a basic item, but a basic component in a wardrobe, and something of which I am currently severely lacking. I, personally, see his pieces as (a couple, at least) decent fillers at relatively reasonable prices. (at least a few are more interesting than much of what I've seen at comparable price points)



      I think the other thing that could make or break a couple of his items is the fabrics used. I'd be interested to see the "military grade nylon/silicone" for instance, or the cashmere used on the riders jacket, for instance, but I'm sure you've heard it all before.



      Overall, I just like it, whatever the reason may be, although S/S 07 really is the first to have more than a very few select items I'd be interested in, but if the line continues to improve as it has I think it could be interesting.



      edit: by the way, don't bother looking up the rest of the collections. Casem really got more or less all that was decent. I'm rather saddened to discover that the rest of it is either ill fitting, or so bland as to be patently unmentionable




      WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #33
        Re: Patrik Ervell



        /\ I gotcha. [Y]



        On a side note, Raf is tricky to talk about as a designer. The thing is, he STARTED OUT with awesome tailored pieces that were so youthful, but incredibly well made. That is what drew me to him immediately (I'm talking circa 99-00). He then actually retired from fashion, which left me in shock. He changed his mind and returned, skipping one season. I don't know what happened, one can only speculate. He came back with a huge bang, with a total youth rebel FU to the world... and it worked. This is the first time he made a splash - he was very niche before that. So in a way you could say that he is now returning to the original Raf with a lot of more formal, more tailored wear (although with a different silhouette). But, the quality was always there, actually moreso than now. That's what I loved about Raf, that he took these young clothes and combined them with luxury fabrics. Sweatshirts - that's now what Raf used to do. He used to knit his hoodies from fine merino wool - now that was fucking awesome! I guess that's what I'm talking about when I say young v. juvenile. [Y]

        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • mesh
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2006
          • 976

          #34
          Re: Patrik Ervell



          I own this piece, my favorite jacket w/cashmere ribbed cuffsand not stiff as it appears in the photo.





          Comment

          • sbw4224
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 571

            #35
            Re: Patrik Ervell

            I think Raf Simons is the perfect example of a youthful look done right. Though his rebellious looks have been moderately copied, I still feel that those early collections after his comeback are very relevant in today's fashion world. The fact that more than half of his early pieces could easily be mixed into someone's wardrobe today is quite amazing... definitely the sign of real talent and insight.

            Comment

            • mutterlein
              Member
              • Dec 2006
              • 44

              #36
              Re: Patrik Ervell



              As someone who's keen to fashion and in the same age range of the models the clothes are being marketed with, I do like it all quite a bit. I would say even more so than Raf Simons, especially Simon's new line RAF by Raf Simons. The difference for me is that while Simons hints towards youth culture the clothes themselves aren't incredibly young. It has the spirit, the attitude, but it's really for people over the age of 30. The prices of course suggest this. His new line has more faults as it takes youth culture references far to literally. I saw a bomber jacket with patches pre-sewn all over it, corduroy pants with rips and tears, it was $400!. They do this same sort of thing at Hot Topic.




              With Ervell the clothes (similar to Dior Homme) play off a youth physique, exploit thealoofness a younger person can get away with, and connote a sense of energy and vitality. These clothes are meant to be touched, worn, and lived in. His approach to fabrics is more in line with how active sportswear designers research textiles for athletes. I can't speak on craftsmanship but from the press I've read it seems to be on par with most other designer labels. He works with very a American clothing vocabulary but subverts it with a contemporary appeal (the fits, the fabrics). It's all really clever to me. These are clothes for younger men that don't want to bare the mark of immaturity. When people ask me about my style I say "I just dress so that in 10 years I won't be embarassed about what I wore". A 25 yearold isn't quite at home in Prada (although it's to me one the better options for youthful high end fashion) and not everyone wants to be a contrivedrock star in Dior Homme.Simons is for the older who don't want to bare the mark of being boring and uninteresting. It's men who didn't settle for Armani at Bergdorf Goodman as youths and aren't going to settle when they've gained in years either.




              I think the two designers are playing the same melody but one on strings and the other with a horn. Ervell also consistently improves with each season, but he's only had a handful of collections so it leaves a lot of speculation. Though, like others have already said, his prospects look good.





              there's a great interview with him in the second issue of Fantastic Man. I might be able to post it soon. (depends on how lazy I get)

              Comment

              • zamb
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 5834

                #37
                Re: Patrik Ervell



                well,



                it was just announced today on Fashionweekdaily.com that he is one of the winners of the Ecco Domani 2007 awards, the only menswear designer of the six tht won..............

                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                .................................................. .......................


                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                Comment

                • Servo2000
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 2183

                  #38
                  Re: Patrik Ervell

                  [quote user="mutterlein"]

                  As someone who's keen to fashion and in the same age range of the models the clothes are being marketed with, I do like it all quite a bit. I would say even more so than Raf Simons, especially Simon's new line RAF by Raf Simons. The difference for me is that while Simons hints towards youth culture the clothes themselves aren't incredibly young. It has the spirit, the attitude, but it's really for people over the age of 30.



                  [/quote]



                  Exactly what I've been trying to say. I think it's sort of like Faust's disctinction between youthful and juvenile. Here, it's a similiar distinction, except between having a "youthful attitude / vibe" like Raf, and literally being youthful, which is what Ervell appears to be attempting.



                  WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                  Comment

                  • casem
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 2590

                    #39
                    Re: Patrik Ervell



                    Here's a little interview with him from men.style:




                    (BTW servo, I asked at Opening Ceremony when the new stuff is coming and they said mid February.)


                    Fashion Forward


                    Patrik Ervell takes on the style world's Luddites




                    January 31, 2007?Since launching his own line in 2005, Patrik Ervell has attracted a cult following with his slim silhouettes and high-tech fabrics. On Sunday, the 28-year-old designer (and winner of this year's Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award for menswear) will stage his first-ever runway presentation in New York. We check in with the man before his big moment.

                    How do you go from political science major at U.C. Berkeley to a runway show during New York Fashion Week?
                    I was working at [V Magazine] and I just started making a few pieces of clothes for my friends. It's not like I had a business plan or anything?I've always been interested in how fashion could communicate messages and be part of a broader cultural dialogue.

                    Do you mean political messages?
                    Not at all. Fashion is a very, very poor medium for making political statements, and I would never do that.

                    Describe your new collection in four words or less.
                    Luxurious, beautiful, a little bit cold, and modern.

                    That's more than four words, but okay. Many young designers are drawn to womenswear. Why are you starting out on the men's side?
                    Menswear is more interesting. There are so many rules and barriers and things that you can't do, and I find that kind of creative tension exciting. I'd also say that menswear is much more dignified than womenswear these days. It seems like womenswear is more about celebrity and who's wearing what, and men don't really care about that. It's more about the clothes.

                    Has your taste for materials like nylon and Velcro cost you credibility with the old guard?
                    Absolutely. Fashion, and especially menswear, has a real Luddite bent to it, and some people think that if it's not evening wear, then it's not fashion. I guess people just prize the old ways of doing things. Take nylon fabrics: People think they're not as luxurious as cashmere.

                    That's because they're not.
                    They can be! They can feel amazing, and if worked with properly, they're beautiful. Anyone can make a suit with cashmere or wool?it's old hat, in a way. But to use fabrics that are unexplored but extremely functional, that's interesting.

                    music

                    Comment

                    • Servo2000
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 2183

                      #40
                      Re: Patrik Ervell



                      What a bizarre interviewer, I've never seen anyone outright defy their subject a la "That's because they're not." It also shows to my mind what often seems like the disconnect between fashion journalists and designers, it seems like so many interviews are designers treating the interviewers like petulant children, perhaps because so many "fashion journalists" are stuck in a certain "fashion forward" mindset? I'm thinking aloud here, don't mind me.



                      Thanks for the info, Casem!

                      WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #41
                        Re: Patrik Ervell



                        That "journalist" is definitely a complete retard. Jeebus, I think I just may succeed. I believe we are all in agreement that Rei Kawakubo has long discredited the myth that nylon/polyester cannot be luxurious.



                        So, he worked at V - I can see where the hype is coming from then. I have to say though - the boy has a brain, although some of his statements are sweeping generalizations (re:womenswear is all about celebs).

                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • soultek
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2007
                          • 400

                          #42
                          Re: Patrik Ervell



                          I've got this jacket too, and I love it, however owning it for a few months and wearing it quite often I have a few complaints:



                          The buttons are not sewn on too well. I've lost at least one. A couple dangle in a way that's distracting to the eye so I cut them off. There's nothing worse than spending 400 on a piece of clothing and having the buttons detach.





                          Also the hand pockets were not thought out too well. If they are left buttoned, they are fine, but if you you like to put your hands in your jacket pocket, the flap would naturally 'tuck' into the pocket right? However the flap size is larger than the pocket and it folds ackwardly.





                          Other than that, I love the lining and the materials. Great piece that looks great with almost everything.







                          [quote user="mesh"]



                          I own this piece, my favorite jacket w/cashmere ribbed cuffsand not stiff as it appears in the photo.





                          [/quote]

                          Comment

                          • bokbok
                            Junior Member
                            • Jan 2007
                            • 5

                            #43
                            Re: Patrik Ervell




                            i have the billowing hooded jacket from the recent fall collection and i love it. simple and clean lines...an overall good quality jacket. i haven't worn it much though, so i hope none of the buttons start falling off as just stated....



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