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Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07 Paris

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  • nqth
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 350

    #16
    Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

    [quote user="Faust"]


    I think the comparison is very right. There are two ways to think about a designer. #1 (and most preferred by me, I think the only pure one) is to judge the garments themselves. #2, to judge designers work as a socio-political commentary. To be honest, two is bullshit used to cover inadequate work - it's exactly the reason for proliferation of terrible contemporary art. Rei has been judged exclusively in terms of #2 in the past several seasons, for the reasons that dontbecruel pointed out. Go back to tFS or press reviews - it's all about "smart," "subversive," "ironic," etc. - there is not much discussion in terms of clothes. So, I don't see how my comment was unfair. If Rei did the monogram, people wouldn't be saying, "wow, the clothes look bad," - they'd be saying, "wow, she's so smart, subversive, ironic." Gold, Rolling Stones lips, Pink Panther? Give me a break.
    [/quote]




    First of all, I think we can'tcomparedesigners whenthey haven't actually made the work.




    Of course we can judge the garments themself. Then we can onlysee it fromtechnical points of view, if it is well designed, executed, sewn, dyed... But even in a technical context there are differences in judgement. And it doens't give you a whole view on things that happen and that make the end result in the garment.




    I think we can't compare designers simply because they work indifferent ways. Yamamoto seems to work with woman body inmind, to make women look beautiful. Yamamoto seems to be more fashion forward than RK. She works merely with ideas. Sometimes it's like a student's works: let make tongues, gold,or let's just twist the fabrics. The point is she makes her ideas to the end and then push morelater. She doesn't care much about the comfortable-wearable-beautiful-on the bodyresult. I think she might sometimes not know what will happen in the end.This is whyit is exciting. Of course it could look ridiculous. But that's what about doing new things. New in the context that never done like this before.




    Of course the "things that happen" mostly used to, as you said, cover inadequate works. It's difficult to see what is authenthic and what is not. But I think we just have to follow our instinc:-P

    Comment

    • nqth
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 350

      #17
      Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

      [quote user="Faust"]


      And don't even go there about commercialism, Yohji is one of the few designers who doesn't have to produce jeans and tshirts in order to make money.
      [/quote]




      Oh come on Faust, what about Adidas or Y3? And his perfumes are big commercial projects.




      It's not that bad to make money, when you are doing interesting things.




      You can look at the same issue fromthe other side. Yamamoto clothes never ever make you think.They are beautifuletc, but that's it.




      RK collections always make you think why. Are they beautiful? This is what fashion ppl love:-)) Are they more than just clothes? Yes, some times they are. It's impossible to make it all the times.



      Comment

      • sbw4224
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 571

        #18
        Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

        It will be interesting to see how sales are with the monogrammed items. We all know there is a large population base that look for status symbols, and these YY status symbols could be a way of attracting sales from that population base in and outside of Japan. I think a truly socio-economic statement would be best conveyed if only it was produced for the runway. I feel that the statement, if that is what it is, will be lost once this hits stores.

        Comment

        • nqth
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 350

          #19
          Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris



          I would like to believe that he will go on with this and keeps producing interesting monogram rather than just made an "ironic" (which is not very ironic at all imo) comment on monograms. He could be the first of avantguards to have monogram:-P




          I think to make ironic comment one could wash out all the marks from the garments in the runway and show thatit is just a plan black leather coat or a luggage:-P


          Comment

          • sbw4224
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 571

            #20
            Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

            I wish he would keep it ironic and make a limited and brief production, but I feel like your hunch is going to be correct nqth, especially if sales are good.

            Comment

            • nqth
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 350

              #21
              Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris



              The sale will be very very good imo:-)




              Yes he can either keep being small or going bigger. It's interesting to watchwhich way he will decide:-)


              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37849

                #22
                Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                [quote user="nqth"][quote user="Faust"]


                And don't even go there about commercialism, Yohji is one of the few designers who doesn't have to produce jeans and tshirts in order to make money.
                [/quote]




                Oh come on Faust, what about Adidas or Y3? And his perfumes are big commercial projects.




                It's not that bad to make money, when you are doing interesting things.




                You can look at the same issue fromthe other side. Yamamoto clothes never ever make you think.They are beautifuletc, but that's it.




                RK collections always make you think why. Are they beautiful? This is what fashion ppl love:-)) Are they more than just clothes? Yes, some times they are. It's impossible to make it all the times.



                [/quote]



                Sure, it's there - it's easy money, but he doesn't make an obsessive point of it the way Rei does, with collabs with Fred Perry, Speedo, Nike, Lacoste, Moncler, Aquascutum, and Levi's. And Yohji has 3-4 fragrances, as opposed to Rei's 100? But yes, making money is not so bad :-).



                And Yamamoto clothes make me think much more than Rei's for sure. They make me think about his own thinking, whereas with Rei it's too easy - she offers it on tap. Yamamoto is like a book, Rei is like a movie based on the book. With the book much more is left to you imagination, what the characters look like, etc. With a movie, it's too obvious...



                Anyway, I feel like I'm bashing Rei too much :-) I respect her and what's she's done for fashion is important.

                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • Servo2000
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 2183

                  #23
                  Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                  [quote user="nqth"]

                  I would like to believe that he will go on with this and keeps producing interesting monogram rather than just made an "ironic" (which is not very ironic at all imo) comment on monograms. He could be the first of avantguards to have monogram:-P




                  I think to make ironic comment one could wash out all the marks from the garments in the runway and show that it is just a plan black leather coat or a luggage:-P


                  [/quote]

                  Ha, I was just doing something like this! I've been working on designs that use monograms and I'm currently looking for a print that washes off in water, or perhaps wears off in some way. I was thinking about doing a series of them imitating pieces which rely on logo-value and setting up a mock-store environment and then washing all the logos off while the clothes sit on their hangers.
                  WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                  Comment

                  • wild_whiskey
                    Junior Member
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 21

                    #24
                    Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                    I understand your point Faust, but I'm arguing that Yohji's clothing don't always speak for themselves, that they're somehting you have to think about. I thought you said otherwise, which is what I was disagreeing with, but after reading your other posts I see this is not true, and I just misunderstood.

                    A couple other things: Rei may have 100 fragrances but some of them are incredibly good, and not a very commercial product. Weird stuff.

                    I never said YY wasn't an artisan. Just that he is a fashion designer, and an argument discussing how artisan labels fit into fashion is completely different. I didn't want to digress any further.

                    Yamamoto does sell a lot more of his main line product than other designers like him, I would agree. However, fragrances, collab lines, etc. are really necessary these days, when retail prices are so damn high. I never called YY a commercial whore or anything, just was pointing out that people are so fond of his white dress shirts and basic sweaters and trousers that he's not desperate for an 'it' bag or something to keep him afloat. That's all.

                    Comment

                    • wild_whiskey
                      Junior Member
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 21

                      #25
                      Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                      [quote user="Servo2000"][quote user="nqth"]

                      I would like to believe that he will go on with this and keeps producing interesting monogram rather than just made an "ironic" (which is not very ironic at all imo) comment on monograms. He could be the first of avantguards to have monogram:-P




                      I think to make ironic comment one could wash out all the marks from the garments in the runway and show that it is just a plan black leather coat or a luggage:-P


                      [/quote]

                      Ha, I was just doing something like this! I've been working on designs that use monograms and I'm currently looking for a print that washes off in water, or perhaps wears off in some way. I was thinking about doing a series of them imitating pieces which rely on logo-value and setting up a mock-store environment and then washing all the logos off while the clothes sit on their hangers.


                      [/quote]



                      Poly-based fabric, water-based ink and soapy water. Water-based ink comes off of windbreaker fabric incredibly easy.

                      Comment

                      • Servo2000
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 2183

                        #26
                        Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                        [quote user="wild_whiskey"][quote user="Servo2000"][quote user="nqth"]

                        I would like to believe that he will go on with this and keeps producing interesting monogram rather than just made an "ironic" (which is not very ironic at all imo) comment on monograms. He could be the first of avantguards to have monogram:-P




                        I think to make ironic comment one could wash out all the marks from the garments in the runway and show that it is just a plan black leather coat or a luggage:-P


                        [/quote]

                        Ha, I was just doing something like this! I've been working on designs that use monograms and I'm currently looking for a print that washes off in water, or perhaps wears off in some way. I was thinking about doing a series of them imitating pieces which rely on logo-value and setting up a mock-store environment and then washing all the logos off while the clothes sit on their hangers.


                        [/quote]



                        Poly-based fabric, water-based ink and soapy water. Water-based ink comes off of windbreaker fabric incredibly easy.

                        [/quote]

                        Thanks, Whiskey. Might give this a try.
                        WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                        Comment

                        • nqth
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 350

                          #27
                          Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris



                          Oh I dissagree on the fragrance issue. Comme perfumes are pieces of arts. The EdP, Comme2, Incenses, and expecially the Odeurs. Nobody else could make those.




                          Yohij makes few, but they are sold in all airport duty free and dept. stores, and their ads are everywhere. UnlikeComme, who has only recently started selling the CDG2 a bit wider. Yohij perfumes are just good perfumes, nothing to write home about. Butthat's true also for Miyake, so I don't complain.




                          Moncler, Nike, Lacoste, Levis are Junya's stuffs. Rei was doing with Vestwood and Paul Smith for example. Also CorsoComo, Colette, Guerrilas:-P.


                          Comment

                          • nqth
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 350

                            #28
                            Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                            [quote user="Servo2000"]


                            Ha, I was just doing something like this! I've been working on designs that use monograms and I'm currently looking for a print that washes off in water, or perhaps wears off in some way. I was thinking about doing a series of them imitating pieces which rely on logo-value and setting up a mock-store environment and then washing all the logos off while the clothes sit on their hangers.



                            [/quote]




                            Oh it's nice.You could also paint it and wash it allover again:-P, orform one big logo from differentsmaller logos:-))

                            Comment

                            • Faust
                              kitsch killer
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 37849

                              #29
                              Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris



                              [quote user="wild_whiskey"]I understand your point Faust, but I'm arguing that Yohji's clothing don't always speak for themselves, that they're somehting you have to think about. I thought you said otherwise, which is what I was disagreeing with, but after reading your other posts I see this is not true, and I just misunderstood.

                              A couple other things: Rei may have 100 fragrances but some of them are incredibly good, and not a very commercial product. Weird stuff.

                              I never said YY wasn't an artisan. Just that he is a fashion designer, and an argument discussing how artisan labels fit into fashion is completely different. I didn't want to digress any further.

                              Yamamoto does sell a lot more of his main line product than other designers like him, I would agree. However, fragrances, collab lines, etc. are really necessary these days, when retail prices are so damn high. I never called YY a commercial whore or anything, just was pointing out that people are so fond of his white dress shirts and basic sweaters and trousers that he's not desperate for an 'it' bag or something to keep him afloat. That's all.
                              [/quote]



                              I gotcha [51]

                              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                              Comment

                              • macuser3of5
                                Senior Member
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 276

                                #30
                                Re: Yohji Yamamoto Womenswear FW07/08 Paris

                                [quote user="Servo2000"][quote user="wild_whiskey"][quote user="Servo2000"][quote user="nqth"]

                                I would like to believe that he will go on with this and keeps producing interesting monogram rather than just made an "ironic" (which is not very ironic at all imo) comment on monograms. He could be the first of avantguards to have monogram:-P




                                I think to make ironic comment one could wash out all the marks from the garments in the runway and show that it is just a plan black leather coat or a luggage:-P


                                [/quote]

                                Ha, I was just doing something like this! I've been working on designs that use monograms and I'm currently looking for a print that washes off in water, or perhaps wears off in some way. I was thinking about doing a series of them imitating pieces which rely on logo-value and setting up a mock-store environment and then washing all the logos off while the clothes sit on their hangers.


                                [/quote]



                                Poly-based fabric, water-based ink and soapy water. Water-based ink comes off of windbreaker fabric incredibly easy.

                                [/quote]

                                Thanks, Whiskey. Might give this a try.
                                [/quote]
                                Psh, if you wanted to be TRULY mean, you would contact print logos onto fabric using cyanotype processing (nice deep blue color, not too spendy either). Won't come out in water, but when they wash with any kind of detergent (sodium carbonate or borax), POOF, gone, like nothing happened [:D]

                                Even meaner: silkscreen a hidden message in blue ink that is only visible after the cyanotype is washed off. [6]

                                Comment

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