Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

[zamb]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



Hey Albert..........

I created a technique, to Mimic (imitate) the Overlock technique without an overlock machine!!!!!!!!

I just finished customizing a Levi's Jeans i bought using this technique,

I will be wearing it in the Morning, and somehow i will find a way to post a picture of it,

I will tell you about the technique tomorrow, its not hard, so you can try it out for your own projects,........

Off to bed,

talk soon

Zamb

[Faust]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)

Great job, Albert! Props to you!

[Chinorlz]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



Thanks Faust and that sounds awesome Zamb! I've come up with some ideas myself for the overlock "look" but I'm curious to see if we're on the same wavelength as well.

I've abandoned the U shaped pants project. After making a mini version, the twisting is disappointing and only at the knees. Very blah. Instead, I've begun work on a pair of black denim twist jeans which has proven to be technically challenging but not impossible.

Maybe it's obvious to some on here but I didn't realize that the reason the jeans twist is because they're stitched IN a twist to the straight legged lining on the inside. Thus, you're actually wearing the lining and the denim is loose and twists around your legs because it's being pulled around the leg as the lining is straight (and somewhat tight) on the leg.

With that in mind, the construction became more intuitive and I'm excited to complete this project and see the results!

[zamb]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



Well the technique is really easy,

in the overlock stiching it is the "looseness" of the closing thread that created the effect that is visible on the outside of the garment.

this can be imitated by loosening the tension on a regular straight stich machine.

the only hard part is you MUST have some knowledge of the machine to be able to do it.

to create a balanced effect, I loosened the tension screw on the Bobbin case (shuttle) of my machine (if you have a domestic house machine this one may not be possible as the bobbin case may be built into the bed of the machine)

You can use a test fabric and slowly adjust (loosen) the tension of the machine until the stitch thread seems loose at the botton (as if the machine is not stitching properly).

be careful not to make it (the tension, that is) too loose as this can clog the feed of the machine with sewing thread and prevent it from sewing...... the best results will come with a size 16-18 sewing needle and a tex 60-70 (the weight used for sewing denim) thread

the one i tested last nite i did an open "flat felled"seam (the one one expensive dress pants and the outseam of some premium jeans) and reinforced the back of it with some petersham ribbon for a contrasting (slightly visible through the stitching) effect

the one i did last nite doesnt fit as perfect as in would like, the pants was 2 sizes big i did it in a hurry as i wanted to go to bed, it looks really great though as it fits ok in the legs i just need to adjust the waist (i will do it at work today)

it will be really interesting to make one from a dark blue (or black denim) or maybe some wool to see what effect i can get as i am kinda tired of denim.....

Albert, if you want i can create a twist seam pattern for you,

Maybe i need to start creating some DIY kit!!!!!!!!!!!
for people who want to make these garments but cant make the patterns themselves

[Chinorlz]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



hmm, interesting. I've "accidentally" done that method of overlocking before hehe. My concern with that loose thread method is that over time the overlock won't be uniform right? Since it's all loose, any tension points will invariably become wider over time? I may be mistaken... unless you're doing it the same method as Carol where the overlock stitch is done OVER the actual tension-bearing stitch and thus supports nothing?

A serger creates a pretty lovely overlock when you part the fabric from what I've seen... but as you may have mentioned before, the thread for "normal" sergers is significantly thinner than the CCP overlock thread.

I really can't wait to see your pair!

Thanks for the offer on the pattern. For now I think I'm ok. The CCP twist jeans and pants actually don't have a twisting seam, they're just anchored to the lining off center so it's actually more of a "reasonable" project hehehe. We'll see how it goes!

A DIY kit wouldn't be a bad idea at all. I've got cut out, marked and laminated patterns for the MA+ wallet and I've done so much measuring and drawing for the twist jeans (since I have the original as a constructed template) that at least drawn out exploded view can be provided for interested parties.

[zamb]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



Yes it would become uneven because of strain in pressure areas, that why i used the petersham ribbon on the back of the seam to compensate for the strain and allow the stitch to hang freely.

My overlock machine can use heavy thread , I just need to change the needle to a larger size, and as i said i am going to but this bag closing machine........ the only problem is i can buy it now, not becuse of money, but because i dont have space to put it!

[Avantster]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



A bit late, but well done, Albert! Much respect - you've done a great job.

[Chinorlz]

Re: Linea Pants Project (Part II From Linea Jumpsuit)



Thanks mate, kind words are never late !

I hope to be adding photos and a quasi "how to" of some black twist jeans on here that I've been working on these past few days. Since I'm going to be manually overlocking them, that part is going to take some time but the twisted jeans themselves should be completed in the next few days!

I did the full lining last night and will be cutting out the tediously measured and constructed outer legs, then it's a matter of pinning/forming them together for that twist and ruching.

Should be fun!