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Thread: Yohji Yamamoto Mens SS08

  1. #1
    Senior Member Casius's Avatar
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    Default Yohji Yamamoto Mens SS08


    "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

  2. #2

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    I like the blue jacket with many pockets a lot and the boots look nice. I'm not sure about the baggy pants that tapper extremely at the knee (I actually started making pants like that a few years back but I thought they looked silly hehe).

    Oh, does that long coat with the stripe with text look like linen to anyone else (my eyes are bad)? I like that one, but I'm not sure I'd ever wear it with that text stripe.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    The first photo is the first time I've liked the tapered-at-the-knee look, it doesn't look completely out of place to me. It might just be the fabric, I'm not sure.

  4. #4
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    Another cool collection, unmistakably Yohji. Love the blazers, the zippered pants and the green coat. [U]
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  5. #5

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    This is a strong presentation with military and peace theme. But I am not sure if this is as great as the past few seasons.




    I think there were a lot smart details in thepastfew collections. But this one seems a bit excessive with pockets, zippers, tie laces etc. It reminds me of his S/S 06baseball collection withthose awkward placement of zippers and opening.




    Materials look nice....but I was hoping for better....[:S]


  6. #6
    Senior Member Casius's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    Here are some pics from style.com. I really like this collection, especially after seeing these pics.


    "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

  7. #7

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    thank youcasius.




    very cool.




    I notice more transparent fabrics!


  8. #8

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    I'm disappointed after Yohji's previous two summer collections (baseball in 06 and the suspenders/newsboy collection this year). Both of those took real visual strength from mixing depression era historical references with Yohji's own idiosyncratic constructions, justifying his idea that fashion is an art of designing with time. Here we have some pretty typical Yamamoto shirts and jackets, but none of the creative perception you see in his best collections, the feeling of an original insight into the way things look today. At least I can't see it yet. I don't aspire to enter this world.

  9. #9
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    [quote user="dontbecruel"]I'm disappointed after Yohji's previous two summer collections (baseball in 06 and the suspenders/newsboy collection this year). Both of those took real visual strength from mixing depression era historical references with Yohji's own idiosyncratic constructions, justifying his idea that fashion is an art of designing with time. Here we have some pretty typical Yamamoto shirts and jackets, but none of the creative perception you see in his best collections, the feeling of an original insight into the way things look today. At least I can't see it yet. I don't aspire to enter this world.
    [/quote]



    I can see it. This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend. It's just not as overt as the baseball or the newsboy collection.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  10. #10

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="Faust"]

    This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.



    [/quote]



    That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.


  11. #11

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="dontbecruel"][quote user="Faust"]

    This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.



    [/quote]



    That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.



    [/quote]



    Just out of curiosity, which of his collections do you like the most? I was never a huge Yohji fan until I joined this and a couple of other forums, so I haven't looked too much into his earlier stuff.


  12. #12
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="dontbecruel"][quote user="Faust"]

    This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.



    [/quote]



    That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.



    [/quote]



    What do you think would create this emotional content?

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  13. #13

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="Faust"]

    What do you think would create this emotional content?





    [/quote]



    Fair enough, what I'm saying is all very vague. But whatever it is that gives a collection its character, its feel, it's more than just the individual pieces isn't it? And I don't see much of that elusive spirit here. On a more tangible tack, I agree with Buckwheat that there are too many fussy novelty details and the clothes aren't as strong overall as in his last few collections. I don't think there are many original standout pieces that will draw long-term Yohji customers into the shop next spring.


  14. #14
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    You just reminded me that I never sent you my thesis. Yes, there is something that gives a collection that something, and sometimes it's hard to pin down.



    This time may be I am not looking hard enough. To me Yohji has always been like that - there is a strong signature present, with variations and departures. And these pieces are distinctly Yohji, so I would imagine that his customer would come exactly for that.



    Having said that, I now see that you view Yohji in more depth than I do (just like I view Ann in more depth then most). I never thought of his clothes as making art by working with time, although I was given a hint in Wim Wenders's documentary. I dig it [Y]

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  15. #15

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="Faust"]

    these pieces are distinctly Yohji, so I would imagine that his customer would come exactly for that.



    [/quote]



    I was thinking that for people who own lots of his clothes already, there's nothing that grabs you by the throat and whispers in your ear "...you need to blow 1000 on another Yamamoto jacket..."


  16. #16

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    [quote user="dontbecruel"][quote user="Faust"]

    This is soldiers returning home after being battered in WWI, they are trying to incorporate themselves back into civic life, but cannot do it fully. They try civilian clothes but they still feel most comfortable in an army coat, or an army jacket, or army pants, or army boots, which they mix with civilian clothes and thus retain a piece of the experience that the civilians will never be able to comprehend.



    [/quote]



    That's a really interesting interpretation. I can see the references you're drawing attention to in the clothes, but I can't see much of the emotional content to go with it. I think this is a weak collection for Yohji because he's failed to portray a new psychological world here, as he does in his best collections. When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer.



    [/quote]



    Uh-huh. Very well said and I completely agree with you.



    I think I
    would describe what is missing here--and what you call "designing with
    time"-- as "mood" rather than emotion. I think one of Yohji's strengths
    is his ability to connect with the moods of historical eras. For
    example, that portrait of the gypsy by August Sander--he "gets it," in
    a deep, immersive way that allows him to transmit and transform the
    reference rather than simply quote it.




    Of course, there is a mood here, but it's either not very strong or
    not very accessible. I can't get into this world, whatever it is.



    I like the simple, black and white looks best.



    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    just popping in to say that i'm loving the dialogue between dontbecruel and faust! Always like to see people's interpretations of Yohji's clothes.



    like laika, i'm most drawn to the simple black and white looks of this collection. On a narrative level, i feel this collection delivers its message harder and stronger than the previous few collections, which seemed to revolve around a theme but wasn't really telling a story with the runway show. A bit too many novelty details, although the easily recognizable Yohji silhouette in the more toned down outfits pretty much nails what he does best season in season out. Probably nothing that the seasoned Yohji customer doesn't already have, but always worth visiting for a fresh update, however minute the changes in detail may be. All about the details...



    That said, i still think this is a strong collection, although not as strong as the last one. As always it should be a treat seeing this stuff in person and putting it on.



    by the way i think this quote is beautiful:



    "When he's on form, you can imagine that new clothes are going to
    give you a new way of living and feeling; that they will change the
    world. It's a brilliant kind of salesmanship for a clothes designer."



    the way putting on Yohji's clothes can almost immediately change your perspective of the world and yourself upon contact i definitely relate to. Today I bought the white shirt w/ trompe l'oeil suspender, a piece i've been eyeing for a while and got today now that it's further discounted. Part of it is my fascination with the Godfather theme Yohji explored this season (the theme song is on repeat at the Aoyama flagship!), and putting it on i felt like i was fulfilling a childhood fantasy of being in the segment where Michael escaped to the Italian countryside...


  18. #18
    Senior Member Casius's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    Bumping this. I can't wait to handle some of these pieces in person as those drop crotch military trousers look phenom. I actually really like the bird embroidered jacket (there's a good pictorial of it in the most recent Homme+) and pants; Maybe not too wearable, but they look cool.



    A's buy seemed to be pretty basic but what they did pick up is quite nice. LVR's buy is crap except for the suspender trousers and back ankle zip trouser (both of which I would love to own).

    "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

  19. #19

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08

    Thank you, Yohji is the master of cloth moving through Time.

    And drape.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Yohji Yamamoto S/S 08



    Regarding the back and forth between Faust and dbc... I think this collection would have benefited from being shown in a less clinical setting. I'll try to explain... Someone here recently said (talking about Number (N)ine) something along the lines of "Miyashita isn't a designer, he's more of a stylist". Even though n(n) is a big favourite of mine, I do agree with that statement to a degree and I think a lot of the strength of n(n) collections that I've seen pictures/videos of has been in the styling of the outfits and especially the locations. I think Yohji would have done well here to take a page out of n(n)'s book and gone with a setting with some more atmosphere, since this collection is trying to convey a feeling as well as an aesthetic (in my opinion).

    Suede is too Gucci.

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