Yohji Yamamoto Mens FW08 - Paris

[Faust]

[Faust]

[Faust]

The coats are amazing.

[diamonds]

First look through and nothing really caught (though nothing was particularly bad) my eye until these coats... Love them to death, too bad I'm a little 'un or else I'd rock that to death.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[quote user="wire.artist"]

Thanks faust! it's 2.16 am here and I should be sleeping but I couldn't wait haha

The coats are awesome!, and the high waisted trousers too, both in my wishlist from now

[/quote]

Just my sentiment! The coats are beautifully cut ... much better than last fall/winter.

I will also look forward to see those high waisted trousers in person! [64]

[matthewhk]

nothing really new here, standard Yohji fare. But it works for what it is.

[the breaks]

This looks like something pretty much any designer would come out with if they were told to design a Yohji-esque line. That said, I like it :)

[desultory]

Hmmm. Slightly over-evening-ish for me but then my wife and I are wearing our TV slippers tonight. Where would you wear these particular concoctions? She's either down to the 7/11 for milk or it's me to the Tabac for our Peter Stuyvesants. Must get out more, Yohji.

[Casius]

This is just okay for me. I really don't like how he distorted the torso/hip area on some of the coats as it doesn't look flattering at all, even on those skinny models; Makes them look huge in the waist and hips.

The trousers seem almost too baggy this time around, they look like they all gather at the bottom and not just flow like they did in his Spring collection.

All in all, there's some amazing pieces in there, like the trench coat that zips off at the chest and some of the other split coats but I'm not exactly wowed by this like I have been by his work in the past.

[matthewhk]

hmm...to be honest i'm a bit surprised by the lukewarm reviews this collection seems to be getting on here. I think it's his best collection in quite a while; i thought s/s 08 was it but upon closer inspection it seems to be a bit of a purgatory of sorts...by that, i mean what HK writer Wyman Wong said about Yohji's collections...it's usually several seasons of 'mehhh...same ol'" punctuated by occasional seasons of OOMPH. And I think this season has that to it, just like S/S 05 had that to it. The middle section didn't do much for me, but the opener and closing sections are as good as he gets, IMO.

Re: Casius' comment on the pants being too baggy...well, this may not make sense but those pants to me look like the clothing equivalent of Jack Nicholson's performance in The Departed. Which is at this moment probably the best compliment i can give to anything style related...

A little off topic, but Yohji did the best leather shirt I've seen since C Diems this past winter season. It was a crushed, smoky brown paper thin leather shirt with a raw feeling linen/cotton blend lining the inside, it was quite a sight and not what i would've expected from YY at all.

[matthewhk]

[quote user="desultory"] Where would you wear these particular concoctions? [/quote]

Bah! This stuff looks like what i would wear to a university lecture or well, precisely what you said: to go down and get milk and cigarettes! ;)

[Faust]

[quote user="matthewhk"]

hmm...to be honest i'm a bit surprised by the lukewarm reviews this collection seems to be getting on here. I think it's his best collection in quite a while; i thought s/s 08 was it but upon closer inspection it seems to be a bit of a purgatory of sorts...by that, i mean what HK writer Wyman Wong said about Yohji's collections...it's usually several seasons of 'mehhh...same ol'" punctuated by occasional seasons of OOMPH. And I think this season has that to it, just like S/S 05 had that to it. The middle section didn't do much for me, but the opener and closing sections are as good as he gets, IMO.

Re: Casius' comment on the pants being too baggy...well, this may not make sense but those pants to me look like the clothing equivalent of Jack Nicholson's performance in The Departed. Which is at this moment probably the best compliment i can give to anything style related...

A little off topic, but Yohji did the best leather shirt I've seen since C Diems this past winter season. It was a crushed, smoky brown paper thin leather shirt with a raw feeling linen/cotton blend lining the inside, it was quite a sight and not what i would've expected from YY at all.

[/quote]

Bathe her and bring her to me.

[matthewhk]

hehe...the shirt was cut ridiculously tight though. there was one size left, it was a 2 I think and i don't think my mom would've been able to fit into it, let alone any grown man. What a shame...but then again, i think that's the only cut that the shirt would've worked in. I think a little more generous sizing (maybe a 4) would've been OK for the average man, Jude Law perhaps.

[Avantster]

I think this is a very solid collection for Yohji.


My knee jerk reaction to the first few pictures with shrunken wool
blazers layered with tartan was CdG. But once I saw the cutaway coats
it became unmistakably Yohji.

I
also think it's one of his better F/W collections in recent years. No
distracting prints this time around, just straight forward flowing
silhouettes, masculine double breasted coats, a splash of tartan,
interrupted by some terrible neon crushed velvet, to be finished off in
a crescendo of architectural drapery.

[quote user="matthewhk"]

hmm...to
be honest i'm a bit surprised by the lukewarm reviews this collection
seems to be getting on here. I think it's his best collection in quite
a while; i thought s/s 08 was it but upon closer inspection it seems to
be a bit of a purgatory of sorts...by that, i mean what HK writer Wyman
Wong said about Yohji's collections...it's usually several seasons of
'mehhh...same ol'" punctuated by occasional seasons of OOMPH. And I
think this season has that to it, just like S/S 05 had that to it. The
middle section didn't do much for me, but the opener and closing
sections are as good as he gets, IMO.

Re: Casius' comment on the
pants being too baggy...well, this may not make sense but those pants
to me look like the clothing equivalent of Jack Nicholson's performance
in The Departed. Which is at this moment probably the best compliment i
can give to anything style related...

A little off topic,
but Yohji did the best leather shirt I've seen since C Diems this past
winter season. It was a crushed, smoky brown paper thin leather shirt
with a raw feeling linen/cotton blend lining the inside, it was quite a
sight and not what i would've expected from YY at all.

[/quote]

Good point there Matthew, and for most of it, I agree. Interestingly enough S/S 05 also had tartan in it.

And on that lovely sounding little off topic - where, and how
much!? I'd love to see it. It *could* damn well fit me too..

I also had to add this look that I loved. The contrast piping, asymmetry and crushed fabric reminded me of Ann D, in a good way.

I'm wondering - is this a double layered coat or is it two coats?

[Faust]

the man looks awesome in his clothes. i want him to be my grandpa (not that I don't live my real grandpa, of course).

[Fuuma]

There's always a collection where the only thing I can say is that I'll reserve my judgment until I give it more thought, last season was the magnificent Raf collection and this season its Yohji. I can see some CdG influence, which is surprising considering they've always walked parallel but always untouching roads. Baggy pants are really on my mind thse days (as far as fashion goes) and Yohji definitely delivers in that sense.

[Casius]

Thought I would bump this.

This still isn't the most inspiring collection from Yohji (at least, to me) but after seeing the Y's collection, I can see how the two meld with each other.

[matthewhk]

definitely Yohji's most aggressive and masculinecollection in quite a while, looks like he took that militant theme and decided to let it rip with the darker side...if S/S 08 is the part in a John Woo movie where someone is releasing doves from his hands, then this is the subsequent shoot out. Atelier should have no problem with buying this (or maybe too much of a problem, what to pick!)

[Casius]

[quote user="matthewhk"]

definitely Yohji's most aggressive and masculine collection in quite a while, looks like he took that militant theme and decided to let it rip with the darker side...if S/S 08 is the part in a John Woo movie where someone is releasing doves from his hands, then this is the subsequent shoot out. Atelier should have no problem with buying this (or maybe too much of a problem, what to pick!)

[/quote]

I just thought this was funny seeing as some of the coats almost look like they've been torn in the front. ;)

I agree, this collection seems to be exuding more work on proportion too. The jackets big and flared, the pants extra wide and relaxed, and the big use of plaid. Yohji does a great job of doing similar things in each collection but tweaking them enough to make them seem new or different.

[Real Real]

I thought this collection was pretty successful at creating its own world...probably my favorite of all of the collections this fall.



The big double-breasted tweed jacket (first picture in the first post) is one of the only items this Fall that I'm particularly looking forward to checking out. With Yohji doing tweed/plaid, I can imagine that there'll end up being a number of other YY/Ys items I'll end up wanting.