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Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm

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  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



    For all the pro tailors that visit here I have a basic but tricky question for you:



    How does one go about constructing a shirt pattern to create a well fitting shoulder/armpit region? I'm having difficulty creating my own pieces in such a way that allows me to alter the shoulder/armpit portion while retaining a nice, nonpuckering shoulder break region.



    Is there some trick to it? It's difficult because the sleeve must fit circularly into the hole created when the front and back panels of the body come together yet all are 2-D until you sew it together. So how do you create something on your drafting paper that you know will fit together nicely and how would you alter an existing pattern for a larger or smaller armhole?



    Thanks to Zamb, I have a pattern that I have adjusted to my fittings after much trial and error but I would like to know how to do this in a more straightforward and elegant manner both for shirts and outerwear.



    Thanks in advance guys!



    Albert

    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
  • sharkweek
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 148

    #2
    Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm

    This is probably the exact opposite of the advice you had hoped to receive but, but I don't see why, with some careful measurements of course you shouldn't be able to create an equation for the ellipse that is the arm hole and then find the circumference which would allow you to create a sleeve that fits exactly in the arm hole.

    Comment

    • Avantster
      ¤¤¤
      • Sep 2006
      • 1983

      #3
      Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



      While I can't contribute in any useful way here, best of luck, A. [Y]



      Can't wait to see what you got cookin'!

      let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

      Comment

      • Chinorlz
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 6422

        #4
        Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



        [quote user="sharkweek"]This is probably the exact opposite of the advice you had hoped to receive but, but I don't see why, with some careful measurements of course you shouldn't be able to create an equation for the ellipse that is the arm hole and then find the circumference which would allow you to create a sleeve that fits exactly in the arm hole.
        [/quote]



        hahaha. Well currently I'm using a method where the edge lengths of the front panel plus back panel's armhole equal the curved edge of the sleeve piece. Trial and error has worked out okay but I know there must be a more elegant way you know? This is the downside to DIY hehehe





        thanks Avantster my man! I've already designed/created 3 pieces. A special fabric that I ordered and waited two months to come is arriving today which will allow me to make the 4th piece. I'll be opening a website up for these items (along with have them on C2). Everything is pretty limited (editions of 10-15 to start) of course haha

        www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

        Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

        Comment

        • kavaj
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 104

          #5
          Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm

          Comment

          • Chinorlz
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 6422

            #6
            Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



            Kavaj, do you have a written description? I mean, I know what I'm looking at but it's the actual measuring/construction that is tricky to me.



            www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

            Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

            Comment

            • kavaj
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 104

              #7
              Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



              there are different descriptions and ways in makingsuch an arm. I think you should try different measurements and make what fits you the best. Try buying a secondhand jacket or something and rip it to pieces and learn from that (analyzing the patterns that is).



              Comment

              • Chinorlz
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 6422

                #8
                Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm

                [quote user="kavaj"]

                there are different descriptions and ways in makingsuch an arm. I think you should try different measurements and make what fits you the best. Try buying a secondhand jacket or something and rip it to pieces and learn from that (analyzing the patterns that is).




                [/quote]



                Thanks for confirming this Kavaj :) I have been planning on doing this for a while now and you've given me that extra push to do it hehehe



                At the very least it'll be a baseline.pattern for my own construction



                www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                Comment

                • drexl
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 798

                  #9
                  Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm

                  If all else fails...raglan sleeves?

                  Comment

                  • Purity
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2007
                    • 239

                    #10
                    Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



                    Don't know if this helps you, but it did help me.



                    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweater_design

                    Comment

                    • Chinorlz
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 6422

                      #11
                      Re: Pattern making: Especially the shoulder/arm



                      Purity, that is awesome! Thank you!!!



                      Drexl, my projects right now involve anatomic construction mixed with nice fitted cuts. It's coming along really nicely. I'm very very happy with the pieces so far. I may use raglan for a few pieces later on but for now I like the structured fit that a classically constructed shoulder will give me :)



                      Thanks to both of you!!!!

                      www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                      Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                      Comment

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