Rick Owens Womens F/W 09/10

[mrbeuys]

Would one say that the womenswear is stronger as a collection than the menswear?

I thought the Men's collection tipped the scales a bit, because until then I would have answered yes.
And then he does this. Epic stuff.

[laika]

Would one say that the womenswear is stronger as a collection than the menswear? I'm still coming to terms with intricate details and cuts.

I really don't think so. I don't think he has ever done a womenswear collection as strong as the menswear show. The palette here is exceptionally nice and creates a wonderful mood, but the cuts are the same as always.

I so wish he would evolve, just a little bit.

[airboyair]

I so wish he would evolve, just a little bit.

true, Helmut Lang should be Rick's mentor.

[laika]

just out of curiosity, how do you see his womenswear to evolve?

This is very Rick, and that's what I like about him. His stuff can be worn together, collection after collection. His signature pieces and cuts always have the same ideas, but with small changes from collection to collection. I don't want Rick to evolve too much, because this is pretty Epic. Better to stay the same, than fuck it up and loose the clients and the identity and strong vision of the brand.

Ann Demeulemeester has been "very Ann" for her entire career, but she has rarely stopped evolving and pushing her vision, however subtle the changes may appear. It is possible to maintain a sensibility while continuing to grow as a designer.

Sorry, but there is nothing "epic" about designing the same client-pleasing jackets and t-shirts year after year. I'd say it's pretty commercial, in fact. Rick has shown he's capable of expanding his design vocabulary--he did it in the men's show--so why not here?

[Casius]

Laika- I think I have to disagree with you here (for once, haha); While this may not be a big evolution for his Womens wear, there is definitely some progression. From the reverse shoulders, to the high wrapped torso jackets, to the extreme layering, there is definitely some evolution. I also would say the color is a huge evolution for Rick. No signature colors (dust,drkshdw), instead he played with varying grays and a gold which is very new for him.

I do agree about Ann changing/evolving more than Rick but it looks like Rick is seriously making a push right now (maybe because of more recognition lately he's pulling in more money to experiment with these collections).

[laika]

I don't know--to me it feels like he tweaks things to make them look a little different, but that he never actually expands or grows. There is a rack of jackets at C21 right now that look an awful lot like these in different fabrics.

I do strongly agree about his use of color though. After seeing this, and reading Faust's article, I think that is one area where he has definitely innovated.

[ironman]

brilliant; love it

[mrbeuys]

I don't know--to me it feels like he tweaks things to make them look a little different, but that he never actually expands or grows. There is a rack of jackets at C21 right now that look an awful lot like these in different fabrics.

Can't quite agree with you here, I think he started in a pretty exciting place years ago and he keeps refining it, mastering his vision to a point where it feels really effortless and yes, connected to last season's and the season before, but I believe that's his approach: Not chasing the next thing, but honing his art and being consistent in one of the least consistent businesses. Which to me makes it more art than fashion (I know I exaggerate). IMO this one with the men's FW10 look like he's comfortable (not complacent) enough to really articulate himself.
And look at this from a while ago and tell me he's not evolved

[laika]

Can't quite agree with you here, I think he started in a pretty exciting place years ago and he keeps refining it, mastering his vision to a point where it feels really effortless and yes, connected to last season's and the season before, but I believe that's his approach: Not chasing the next thing, but honing his art and being consistent in one of the least consistent businesses. Which to me makes it more art than fashion (I know I exaggerate). IMO this one with the men's FW10 look like he's comfortable (not complacent) enough to really articulate himself.
And look at this from a while ago and tell me he's not evolved

I see what you--and others--are saying, I really do. And I have grown to enjoy and appreciate what Rick does, far more than I did before SZ.

I think my issue is that most of the designers we discuss here are (or were) major movers and shakers....Margiela, Rei, Yohji were true revolutionaries in their time; the Antwerp 6, while not revolutionary, still transformed the landscape of the industry in a profound and lasting way. Then I look at younger designers like Carol, Haider and Bruno, who are just getting better and better, even making major break-throughs with every passing season. As cultishly interesting and appealing as Rick might be, I just don't think he measures up to that standard. And I know I'm setting the bar high, but that's what we do here at SZ.

He once said that he's just a wannabe Calvin Klein or Giorgio Armani, making tasteful separates at a decent price. I don't think he's a wannabe anymore, (nor are his prices so decent ), but that's pretty much how i've come to see him. His aesthetic is unique, but his perspective is limited...at least as of now.

edit: sorry if I seem down on rick, guys. i know a lot of you are fans, and i'm sure my criticism gets pretty tiresome.

[pipcleo]

virtually nothing in this collection stands on its own.
to wear it necessitates buying the whole ensemble
and dressing in this way to the specific dictates of the designer leaves very little room for personal interpretation

[mrbeuys]

Laika

Point well made.I think time will tell if you are right, but I think the next couple of seasons are going to be interesting.
For now he may be a one trick pony but nice pony, nice trick!

Pipcleo, I think it's the colour that makes you think this. If it was all black I don't think you would feel the same way.

[martin]

The boots are awesome. Here are some more pictures of them.

[Heirloom]

haha, the boil on their calves just grew bigger for this season

[philip nod]

seeing the show from profile you really get a sense of what does not come across here. for one thing the movement and lines that start in the front and shoot under the pits and billow out into this floppy tail was pretty fixating. how one fabric would have a certain strength and then on second look have no strength at all.
agree w pip. one total murakami alien look.
the boots were also really floppy, lots of bounce to the show. like astronauts on the moon.
you really cant judge the show by any of whats been posted. and i dont understand womens clothes in the slightest either.

[casem]

There was a quote from a recent Rick interview that really stuck with me and makes his work much clearer IMO.

I can't remember the quote exactly and can't remember where the interview was but he was talking about how he designs like some artist (sorry for my ignorance of the art world) putting a slab of rock on a piece of wood, but it's about using the right rock and the right wood and placing them in the just the right place (again sorry for my ineloquent recollection).

It was a beautiful statement and now I view each of his looks as one single gesture in just the right material. Maybe it's that simplicity of design/concept that is bothering you Laika? Or is it that he only seems to have one gesture in his repertoire? Anyway, that simple sculptural approach is very alluring to me.