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  • an_individual
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2018
    • 8

    Searching for 1990s REVERSIBLE JACKET? We’ve got Geoffrey B. Small Men's Outerwear starting at $1000 and plenty of other Men's Outerwear. Shop our selection of Geoffrey B. Small today!


    Searching for 1990s REWORKED ZIPUP JACKET? We’ve got Geoffrey B. Small Men's Outerwear starting at $800 and plenty of other Men's Outerwear. Shop our selection of Geoffrey B. Small today!


    Any info on either of these? Season etc.

    Comment

    • ATIP
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 20

      Why dont u just ask the seller?

      Originally posted by an_individual View Post
      https://www.grailed.com/listings/415...ERSIBLE-JACKET

      Searching for 1990s REWORKED ZIPUP JACKET? We’ve got Geoffrey B. Small Men's Outerwear starting at $800 and plenty of other Men's Outerwear. Shop our selection of Geoffrey B. Small today!


      Any info on either of these? Season etc.

      Comment

      • Mojo1990
        Member
        • Oct 2015
        • 31

        SS19 Paris collection was amazing. I anticipate further information from Geoffrey! The IG pictures are fantastic

        Comment

        • Geoffrey B. Small
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2007
          • 618

          some belated answers...

          Hello, checking in for a second after a super-busy and all-time record session in Paris, please find short answers here with apologies for the long wait and thanks as always for reading and contributing to our thread on SZ...

          Originally posted by Mojo1990 View Post
          SS19 Paris collection was amazing. I anticipate further information from Geoffrey! The IG pictures are fantastic
          Thank you Mojo1990, there is quite a bit up now on the seasonal thread (including video) with many thanks to Ahimsa and Faust.

          We invite those who have not seen it to do so here...

          http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?21984-Geoffrey-B-Small-S-S19-Men%92s-%96-Paris





          an_individual
          ATIP
          Why dont u just ask the seller?
          Well ATIP, we honestly doubt the seller would know much about the articles unless they are the first time owners of the pieces. Even so we are talking about over 2 decades of time which has passed since their creation. The big question is if the seller still has the original hangtags with their handwritten information about the pieces and their provenance. At quick glance, both are from the 1990's period of our work in Boston, and one of them has a 129 Newbury Street Atelier label which would put its creation before the summer of 1994, when we relocated to the 115 Kingston Street Ateliers (which would represent a period of works from July 1994 to March 2000). Both look like excellent examples of our pioneering recycle-design work with specific techniques that we developed in the early and mid '90's (which may traceable to particular dates and collections) and still in very nice condition. We will try to examine the photos in detail and run down more information about either or both of them if we can, however most of our own archive and information on the Boston years has been kept in archive storage in the US since we moved to Italy in 2000 so it's a bit of a hassle running everything down from where we are now. Again, any hangtag information that might still accompany the piece would be really helpful if anybody knows anything about the seller, even what country they might be in (Japan?)....

          Hope this is helpful.
          Best wishes, Geoffrey & the team

          Comment

          • Geoffrey B. Small
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2007
            • 618

            F94J03 1994 recycle jacket design

            Originally posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
            Hello, checking in for a second after a super-busy and all-time record session in Paris, please find short answers here with apologies for the long wait and thanks as always for reading and contributing to our thread on SZ...



            Thank you Mojo1990, there is quite a bit up now on the seasonal thread (including video) with many thanks to Ahimsa and Faust.

            We invite those who have not seen it to do so here...

            http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?21984-Geoffrey-B-Small-S-S19-Men%92s-%96-Paris









            Well ATIP, we honestly doubt the seller would know much about the articles unless they are the first time owners of the pieces. Even so we are talking about over 2 decades of time which has passed since their creation. The big question is if the seller still has the original hangtags with their handwritten information about the pieces and their provenance. At quick glance, both are from the 1990's period of our work in Boston, and one of them has a 129 Newbury Street Atelier label which would put its creation before the summer of 1994, when we relocated to the 115 Kingston Street Ateliers (which would represent a period of works from July 1994 to March 2000). Both look like excellent examples of our pioneering recycle-design work with specific techniques that we developed in the early and mid '90's (which may traceable to particular dates and collections) and still in very nice condition. We will try to examine the photos in detail and run down more information about either or both of them if we can, however most of our own archive and information on the Boston years has been kept in archive storage in the US since we moved to Italy in 2000 so it's a bit of a hassle running everything down from where we are now. Again, any hangtag information that might still accompany the piece would be really helpful if anybody knows anything about the seller, even what country they might be in (Japan?)....

            Hope this is helpful.
            Best wishes, Geoffrey & the team


            Dear an_individual and ATIP,

            Since our last post, we have researched the 2 pieces you asked about on grailed.com, and have been able to run down some additional information on the designs.

            Let's start with the first one, a superb example of an F94J03 reversible inside out recycle vintage remake piece with special contrast intarsia stitching work on the lapels (a form of drawing free-hand using a sewing machine which we pioneered and became quite famous for), adjustable-fitting ties (to accommodate across 2-3 size ranges with the same garment), and exposed assymetric overlock stitching details. This design was first introduced in Paris in March 1994 at our very first Paris fashion show "Typical American" in a small room at the Hotel InterContinental in the plush 1st Arrondisement. We chose this venue specifically as an homage to Rei Kawakubo who had done her first Paris show to a tiny group of people some 13 years previous in the same hotel as well. As we were the very first designers to come over from our country and try to present a true avant-garde design collection in Paris with no idea of what would happen (you need to understand Paris did not like American designers back in those days, indeed they hated them)--we felt strong affinity and inspiration for people like herself, Yohji, Helmut and the first-generation Belgians. Each had come to Paris from their own home countries oftentimes ignored or spit on by those from whence they came, with a vision and a commitment to place their names, their work, and where they came from on the map of the capitol of fashion. For us, Rei was one of the very first and most courageous of these pioneers, and we had been inspired by her path--and success or fail in our case--we felt it was our destiny to present our first works in Paris in the same place that the Kawakubo had shown CDG for the first time, before anybody had any idea who she was. Nobody knew who we were either in 1994, and we did not make a big deal or talk about the reason for our venue choice to anyone at the time. Perhaps it would bring us a little bit of luck, and if we ever amounted to anything years later, those who knew their history might understand a little something. All this, is part of the story of the jacket design.

            The F94J03 was designed to be worn inside out or right side out as part of our concept for the collection which we called "metamorphosis" (a term and concept used over and over after us by an endless number of designers and brands, but we were the first) and special care was taken to make sure the linings offered some additional character for inside-out use. I do remind readers that this was cutting-edge research work when we were doing it, albeit today after all the recent new-wave upcycler and vetement-ish collections, it may seem mundane. When we were first introducing these ideas at that time, nobody in the world was doing them yet in this way, and we are talking about over twenty-four years ago (Demna would have been 13-years old at that time). We stand on the merits of our work, and the piece, which by the way is well undervalued at the current price on grailed and should be priced higher as it is a rare all dark piece probably made for the legendary Mr. Osawa of Midwest in Japan during its legendary years when they had only one store on the outskirts of Nagoya.

            For reference, I include some analog images that we have dug up and scanned for posting on SZ, beginning with an FW1995 press lookbook photo of some of our amazingly creative Boston team members at that time who worked on our collections, walked our shows and produced as well: Erica Gould, Cookie Howard and Reilly McLaren in Boston. On the left, Erica was wearing an F94J03 jacket in grey tattersall check vintage wool in inside-out mode with the ties in place. The strategic lines, 2-in1 versatility, uniqueness of each and every piece due to their recycle vintage basis, and their outstanding price-value ratio made this design extremely successful during its time...









            here, a magazine article page reprint from Hong Kong in 1995 with another image of Erica in the F94J03 from the same shooting...






            Every GBS piece was a one-of-a-kind back then, because it was based upon an existing vintage article of clothing. I remember buying every single piece myself, like a serious chef working the markets for the freshest and the best ingredients to put on his table each day... I would go all over Boston and then later New England and New York searching, finding and buying the best used clothes to use for our recycle design pieces. I controlled and looked at everything: the fabric, the construction, the labeling, the buttons, the condition, everything--at that time, you would have been shocked to see what Americans were throwing away in those days.

            Amazingly, we were finally able to find our original Fall/Winter 1994 Collection linesheet book with analog photo prints shot in our ateliers in Boston on the second floor at 129 Newbury Street of the original "Typical American" prototypes first developed and presented in Paris. The prototype piece itself was no slouch, reworked from an exquisite navy blue serge lightweight late 1970's Louis Boston The International Shop label pure wool jacket made in Germany from our city's legendary men's store with a stunning windowpane plaid lining. Here are the front and back shots of the first F94J03 ever created along with a scan of a magazine page from Collezioni Magazine coverage of the shows that season with the jacket on the runway in our first Paris runway show...




















            Women's Wear Daily (WWD) ran a big story on us in the U.S. a few weeks after our first Paris show. At the time, it had a mafia-like lock on the industry, it was New York based all the way and the only trade paper in the business (long before BoF usurped its role digitally) for all of North America. Being just a tiny little tailoring business in Boston that had been ignored by them for a decade and a half, we were shocked that all of a sudden they wanted to write anything about us. They asked for some prototypes from the collection just shown in Paris including the F94J03 jacket sample to shoot some editorial to accompany the story. We were glad to do so (and you did not say no to WWD in those days), but were not really crazy about the photos when the story came out and we saw them. Nevertheless, we found the tearsheet in our archives and the story reprint is provided here below.





            -- for those of you following us these days, remember that we are now working on our 105th collection to be presented in Paris in September. So no doubt it is always a little head-spinning for us to think about and look back to these early days and designs in our Paris collection work.

            We hope this is helpful and informative.
            We will post our findings on the 2nd jacket next.

            Cheers,

            Geoffrey & team



            .
            Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 07-15-2018, 05:06 PM.

            Comment

            • lowrey
              ventiundici
              • Dec 2006
              • 8383

              wow, fantastic information from the archives Geoffrey!

              I think it speaks volumes about your work that those pieces are from 20 years ago
              "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

              STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

              Comment

              • negroygris
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2013
                • 270

                I really love your reference of a chef picking the right ingredients, it indeed is a work of art and a magnificent true love for the craft in the way in which you and your team create. Every piece even then had so much character. A lot of these new designers claim to be the ones innovating, but hence why I truly believe they will not have longevity in the industry.

                Also, I really love the fact that Erica, Cookie, and Reilly were involved in the production and the creation of the garments. It makes the pieces so much more personal and i can see from the beautiful imagery that they wore these pieces with pride and love.

                Thank you for sharing the archives! Keep em coming!
                We hope that people will begin to see beyond the superficial surface of things and understand that there is far more to a design than just the way it looks on the outside.

                -GEOFFREY B. SMALL

                Comment

                • Geoffrey B. Small
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2007
                  • 618

                  X20 1997 "Neo-Country" recycle jacket design

                  lowrey
                  wow, fantastic information from the archives Geoffrey!


                  I think it speaks volumes about your work that those pieces are from 20 years ago


                  Originally posted by negroygris View Post
                  I really love your reference of a chef picking the right ingredients, it indeed is a work of art and a magnificent true love for the craft in the way in which you and your team create. Every piece even then had so much character. A lot of these new designers claim to be the ones innovating, but hence why I truly believe they will not have longevity in the industry.


                  Also, I really love the fact that Erica, Cookie, and Reilly were involved in the production and the creation of the garments. It makes the pieces so much more personal and i can see from the beautiful imagery that they wore these pieces with pride and love.


                  Thank you for sharing the archives! Keep em coming!





                  tHANK YOU so much lowrey and negroygris, so great to hear from you both and so inspiring for us as well...


                  Following our last post and our promise to get back to an-individual's request for info for the 2nd jacket on grailed.com, we have dug into our records and determined that the jacket is an X20 recycle jacket with recycle sweater knit and zipper elements from our A/W 1997 "Neo-Country" Paris collection production which continued an evolution of our very successful techniques in those years to combine knit and woven recycle vintage materials in innovative ways that were very cool and streetsmart in a tailored but also relaxed easy-to-wear-and-style manner. We have scanned the original prototype photos from the collection's linesheet books and post them for SZ here:







                  While we were able to find quite a bit on the 1st jacket (F94J03 see previous posts above), we have had less luck with the X20. The only Paris runway shot we are able to get at here in Italy of the original design is from our press sheet of the "Neo-Country" show which took place in March 1997 in an old run-down atelier/garage space at 3, Impasse Mont-Louis near the famous Père Lachaise cemetery. I think we were the only ones to ever dare use this space except for Raf Simons who with the help of PR Kuki di Salvertes co-founder of Totem used it for his first Paris runway show. The 2 shows were a few months apart, and the building was shortly condemned by the City afterwards and never used again as a show venue. It was pretty awesome environment though, with backstage being a wooden plank mezzanine over the garage and models going up and down creaky unfinished old wooden stairs to get to the garage floor runway. You can see the X20 below in photo top row second from left worn by Guillaume a crazy and very creative rasta-style model and artistwho used to walk for us at that time. He is also in the photo bottom 2nd from right. Erica Gould who we mentioned in our previous post is seen upper row farthest to right. And another great GBS team (who still works with us collections today) Michelle Fournier can be seen in the bottom row 3rd from right...





                  If there is any serious interest out there, we may have video footage of the Paris show in our archive storage in the US.
                  But it will take some digging to know for sure. Let us know.


                  The X20 piece on grailed.com, like the F94J03 is probably with its black and charcoal combination, a production piece done for Midwest in Japan for their AW1997 delivery. At that time, they were operating stores in Nagoya and Shibuya Parco and were without a doubt under the leadership of their founder Masaru Osawa, the most important and the most powerful independent designer retailer in all of Japan. And believe me, Japan was a very very big market for designer collections back then.












                  (continued next page)
                  Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 07-28-2018, 02:34 PM.

                  Comment

                  • Geoffrey B. Small
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 618

                    X20 (continued)

                    (continued from above)


                    "Neo Country" in Paris was a wild and crazy collection and presentation, which went on to tour with other special shows in our home city of Boston, Toyama Japan, and Hong Kong along with a crazy 10-year retrospective exhibition of our work at the legendary Fringe Club Art Space which was held just before the China handover of the city from Great Britain. The HK event was a surprisingly huge media thing that was organized by the very creative independent music company founder Henry Kwok who ran the Sound Factory Records label (who I originally met on the internet during the world wide web's earliest days) and Sham Kar Wai the founder of Green Peace HK our clients at the time (now known as I.T.).


                    One the interviews from that project published in Arte HK written by Sarah Daglish was previously posted on SZ here:



                    I post a few more here just for a laugh and to give readers an idea of the spirit of the thing…


                    Next magazine:





                    Elle:





                    Surprise:





                    Esquire:





                    Marie Claire:





                    Amoeba:













                    Like we keep saying, when we see all the hype these days about these radical, revolutionary streetwear, upcycle, and metamorphic, sustainable-environmental-politically-correct designers and brands who either end up going out-of-business or getting bought up by the corporations, all we can do is smile. With a glint in our eye, once upon a time there was something far more real and raw and totally alive. Ah, if only you could have all been there to experience it... Well, there is still a beautiful X20 out there on grailed.com--I guess that's better than nothing at all. :-D


                    God bless the internet.


                    Next up, if it's OK with all of you out there on SZ, we'd sort of like to return our thread discussion to things a little bit more current, like our amazing new collections for Autumn/Winter 2018, which now-- thanks to the extraordinary efforts of every single one of our 28-member workroom super team at Cavarzere Venezia, and our incredible GBS key suppliers-- are starting to arrive at our exclusive dealers around the world.


                    A peak at things to come…









                    Thanks for reading.
                    Best wishes,


                    Geoffrey & the team

                    Comment

                    • negroygris
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2013
                      • 270

                      This was quite the read, it is extraordinary the work you and your team has done throughout the years. The innovation, the creativity at its purest form. Also, the attached link of your interview to Arte HK was very thought provoking.

                      Indeed you are a master at your craft Geoffrey, sadly all your work has not receive the praise you entirely deserve. Also, it was great to know you once did streetwear, seeing you in a camo shirt and sunglasses is very interesting. It is beautiful how time tells stories and these archival documents and pictures indeed bring a beautiful sentiment.

                      All in all, I agree with you regarding the item being on grailed. Although, Grailed has ruined and saturated the market in many ways, it also is a bridge for GBS collectors to find pieces they have been looking for ages and for them to dearly acquire them.

                      Thank you once again for this thorough post.
                      We hope that people will begin to see beyond the superficial surface of things and understand that there is far more to a design than just the way it looks on the outside.

                      -GEOFFREY B. SMALL

                      Comment

                      • Geoffrey B. Small
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 618

                        "VITRUVE TRIPALIUM" Essapmi and new movement in Lyon

                        Originally posted by negroygris View Post
                        This was quite the read, it is extraordinary the work you and your team has done throughout the years. The innovation, the creativity at its purest form. Also, the attached link of your interview to Arte HK was very thought provoking.

                        Indeed you are a master at your craft Geoffrey, sadly all your work has not receive the praise you entirely deserve. Also, it was great to know you once did streetwear, seeing you in a camo shirt and sunglasses is very interesting. It is beautiful how time tells stories and these archival documents and pictures indeed bring a beautiful sentiment.

                        All in all, I agree with you regarding the item being on grailed. Although, Grailed has ruined and saturated the market in many ways, it also is a bridge for GBS collectors to find pieces they have been looking for ages and for them to dearly acquire them.

                        Thank you once again for this thorough post.






                        Dear negroygris,
                        Thank you once again for your wonderful and inspiring comments. Innovation and creativity are at the heart of our efforts to continue to push the envelope of making clothes by hand and what all that stands for. But it is not a solo-performance or a one man story. It requires the combined talents, energy and contributions of other great people across a wide spectrum of contribution, capabilities and teamwork from our almost thirty in-house design and tailoring team members now working together at Cavarzere Venezia, to our GBS key suppliers who truly are the very best ofMade in Italy today, to the rare and special dealers who over the years we have been fortunate enough to know and be able to work with. All are focused on our mission to raise the art and science of human beings making clothes for other human beings. For example, we have been inspired recently by the stunning editorial Instagram work done by Chanh Vo and Romain Fouchere coming out of a vibrant and exciting concept store called Essapmi in Lyon. Essapmi is found inside the legendary menswear luxury brand emporium called Graphiti, and is taking things to a new creative horizon that is building an exciting cult following among a small but very advanced and growing community of young design people in the Lyon area. Lyon has a well-known history of textiles and hosts design programs at the University de la Mode and Esmod Lyon which have produced several GBS team members including design team staff member Lois Dionisio who has now worked on four GBS Paris collections and recently started GBS intern Zelie Traversier, of whom we have great hopes for in the weeks and months ahead. Perhaps no less creative and exciting is the duo of Fouchere and Vo, who divide architectural installation work and graphic design responsibilities respectively, while taking care of the customers who eventually hear about the radical space and environment that is starting to shake up one of France's most established capitals of the bourgeoisie. Nothing underlines this more than the experience for visitors who enter Graphiti at street level and are met with an array Italo-corporate luxury brands from Brunello Cucinelli to Gucci to Balenciaga to Kiton to Brioni- but if they manage to make it upstairs to Essapmi- they enter a whole new world. A big part of that world sits on the shoulders of Chanh Vo, who also walked in our historic January 2018 men's AW2018 collection presentation "Get Ready"...






                        Chanh Vo walking in "Get Ready" AW2018 men's collection presentation in Paris.
                        (photo by G. Barbagelata)




                        "VITRUVE TRIPALIUM"

                        is the title of the recent editorial Instagram piece which includes an eclectic philosophical
                        explanation for the images as well which possibly sheds some light on Vo's background at
                        the Universite Jean-Moulin in Lyon where he studied philosophy…



                        "Editorial attempts to stage the Man of post-modern society characterized by
                        the fragmentation of the individual.It is multiplied or compartmentalized
                        between different or even opposing attitudes. Depending on the moments of
                        life, the being does not project itself into models but plays his person through
                        several masks. We are moving towards greater identity flexibility. This
                        postmodern thought is situated in the perspective of overcoming the
                        disenchantment of the world, after the disintegration of cultural or religious
                        references resulting from modernity,and the patent failure of the revolutionary
                        utopias it had brought."




                        . ..............
















                        Above: GBS handmade HUJ13special Fratelli Piacenza Super 150's Emotions with Silk 700
                        2-button handpadstitched canvas front jacket, with RSP04special Luigi
                        Parisotto stamped
                        linen suspender trouser, HUS04 Varese cotton and linen 1940's reproduction work shirt, and
                        HUA01handmade Varese linen and Como silk lined
                        Pescatore fisherman's cap are featured
                        in this editorial spread by Essapmi in Lyon. (photos by C.Vo)










                        . .. ..............






























                        GBS reversible 4-in-1 handmade HUJ01 Sydney Pollack "Slender Thread" inspired Baracuta

                        jacket in handwashed Varese handkerchief superlight pure linen and exclusive pure Como silk
                        raso satin mandolin print lining story, with handmade deep double-pleated wide leg super-khaki
                        short trouser in L.Parisotto "Garfield" superfine pure cotton gabardine raso satin twill chino
                        suiting and Varese linen and Como silk lined exclusive fish print cap in the Vitruve Tripalium
                        editorial spread by Essapmi in Lyon. (photos by C.Vo)







                        All in all, the entire scene around Essapmi and Lyon's new enthusiasm for independent design movement is a refreshing thing.

                        One that contrasts with the vast corporate sea of overpriced luxury streetwear brand vapidity that so many consumers and young design students and media people are falling prey to in so many other parts of the world. Thank you Romain and Chanh and everyone involved with Essapmi with your beautiful work. And negroygris too. We salute each of you and look forward to carrying on with the art of making beautiful clothes for human beings in a mad crazy world.




                        Best wishes,
                        Geoffrey & the team




                        .

                        Comment

                        • Geoffrey B. Small
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 618

                          Some "Get Ready" campaign images by Guido Barbagelata

                          Following up on our post from 28 July, some images from the new campaign shot in Paris by Guido Barbagelata for "Get Ready" the new GBS men's extreme handmade technology collection for Autumn/Winter 2018-19 of some superclothing pieces now beginning to arrive at exclusive authorized dealers worldwide.





































                          GRJ13 extended back-pocket handmade superjacket in exclusive Fratelli Piacenza 1733
                          "cashgorissimo" angora, cashmere and wool herringbone cloth (Hostem Archive London,
                          Calculus Victoria, Cathedral Osaka/Ginza, Eth0s Shanghai) over GRS07 handmade L.Parisotto
                          Super 120's double-twist luxury cotton hand dyed stripe double-button down collar supershirt with
                          mother-of-pearl buttons and pure silk Bozzolo handsewn buttonholesand GRP10 hand dyed
                          Biella Super 120's Tasmanian wool trouser (exclusively at Calculus Victoria, Cathedral Osaka/Ginza).
                          Horn buttons by Claudio & Cinzia Fontana.Handmade boot Giuseppe Rebesco for GBS.
                          model: Yaro (Studio Paris Management).







































                          GRJ07 and GRJ08 single-breasted notch-lapel handmade jacket and matching waistcoat in
                          hand dyed Luigi Parisotto heavy India winter linen with Fontana incision cut horn buttons
                          and all handsewn bozzolo silk thread buttonholes (for Darklands Berlin, Ink Hong Kong,
                          Atelier New York, Looq Zurich, Leisure Center Vancouver, Gullam Daikanyama, Liberte Kobe,
                          Secret Service Taipei, Eth0s Shanghai) over GRS08 handmade supershirt in Como pure raso satin silk
                          'uccello' bird print with mother-of-pearl buttons and pure silk Bozzolo handsewn buttonholes
                          (for L;Eclaireur Boissy Paris, Darklands, Das Chegini Vienna, Essapmi Lyon, Eth0s,
                          Gullam, Hues Fukuoka, Leisure Center, Persuade Bilbao, Provogue Nagoya) and GRP07
                          L.Parisotto winter linen curved bottom trouser (Darklands, Ink, Leisure Center, Secret Service).
                          Handmade boot G. Rebesco for GBS. model:Ahkim.





















































                          GRC01 long back pleated-vent design dustercoat in hand dyed Luigi Parisotto heavy India winter linen
                          with Biella Super 120's Tasmanian wool linings, Fontana horn buttons and handsewn Bozzolo
                          silk thread buttonholes (for Darklands Berlin, Chapter 1 Seoul, Ink Hong Kong, Arts & Science Aoyama,
                          Looq Zurich, Gullam Daikanyama, Provogue Nagoya, Secret Service Taipei) over GRJ01 single-breasted
                          peak-lapel handmade jacket in Biella Super 120's Tasmanian extrafine wool lined hand dyed winter
                          heavy L.Parisotto linen (Hostem Archive London, Darklands Berlin,Ink Hong Kong, Leisure Center Vancouver,
                          Gullam Daikanyama, Liberte Kobe, Provogue Nagoya, Cathedral Osaka/Ginza, Das Chegini Vienna) with GRP01
                          narrow-leg matching trouser fully-lined in pure Bemberg cupro (Darklands, Ink, Leisure Center, Secret Service),
                          GRS02 handmade rounded-collar supershirt in hand dye dark stripe L.Parisotto Venezia Super 120/s
                          doppio-ritorto double-twist luxury cotton shirting with mother-of-pearl buttons and pure silk Bozzolo
                          handsewn buttonholes (Atelier New York, Darklands, Eth0s Shanghai, Cathedral, Leisure Center)
                          Handmade boot by Giuseppe Rebesco for GBS.
                          model:Chanil (Studio Paris Management).















                          A
                          dditional big credit and thanks need to go out to Nicholas Giannelli and Lois Dionisio, our developing research designers on these pieces, as well as their design department assistants-in-training Brandon Leung and David Wild, with commercial team design contribution work from Nobuhiko Akiyoshi, Yusuke Shiiki and Ryne Burns--and of course, the entire GBS Sartoria workroom team at Cavarzere and our incredible GBS Made in Italy Key Suppliers and all of our clients around the world for making these super pieces possible on our most successful Paris collection to date.

                          Thanks for your viewing, please contact the dealers listed above for further information on the individual pieces/outfits shown. We emphasize more than ever that we are not authorizing e-commerce selling of our work, nor are we selling the collection direct to consumer. Please do not email or PM us asking to buy directly. "Get Ready" is available worldwide only through exclusive authorized GBS dealers.

                          More news on 'Get Ready' coming soon.

                          Best wishes,
                          Geoffrey & the team





                          .

                          Comment

                          • dvd
                            Junior Member
                            • Jun 2012
                            • 9

                            Originally posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post


                            We emphasize more than ever that we are not authorizing e-commerce selling of our work, nor are we selling the collection direct to consumer.

                            Best wishes,
                            Geoffrey & the team

                            In other words, when scrolling through all the respected retailers like Hostem et al, there really is no reason to plan any purchases, UNLESS you can pick them up at the store personally?

                            I can understand the reasoning behind this tight distribution, but ofc it's disappointing - would have to plan my summer holidays to the other side of the world to get hold of certain items.. :)

                            Comment

                            • Geoffrey B. Small
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2007
                              • 618

                              Originally posted by dvd View Post
                              In other words, when scrolling through all the respected retailers like Hostem et al, there really is no reason to plan any purchases, UNLESS you can pick them up at the store personally?

                              I can understand the reasoning behind this tight distribution, but ofc it's disappointing - would have to plan my summer holidays to the other side of the world to get hold of certain items.. :)


                              Dear DVD,

                              Thanks very much for your post. We strongly advise and encourage physical visits to our dealers to learn about, experience and purchase our work for a myriad of very important reasons. It's not about just "picking something up." It's so much more than that, believe me. A real GBS is never a minor investment, indeed, our collections are known as some of, if not the, most expensive in the independent avant-garde and artisanal sector. We think it highly unwise to be spending this kind of money with only a couple of clicks of a mouse or touch screen. We build the Ferraris of the clothing industry, the extreme limit of handmade technology, art and design as applied to clothing- and we would challenge anyone out there to try to buy a Ferrari via an e-commerce site. It is an anethma to everything we and Ferrari, are all about. Indeed, with less than 3,500 pieces being made for the entire world this year with every drop of blood, sweat, tear and soul going into each and every single one of them, the last thing we would ever want to do is waste them on people who have no idea of what goes into them and what they are all about.

                              There is also the image and pricing issue that must to be addressed here. We do not need, nor have any interest in our work being portrayed in the ugly, vapid and shallow manner that 99.99 percent of e-commerce clothing sites merchandise their offerings today. How anyone could imagine allowing beautiful works to be portrayed in such ugly surroundings for the hope of making a few more empty sales baffles us. And then there is the risk always that some idiot merchant out there who lacks sufficient knowledge and competence of his or her own job as a luxury or high-end retailer, in panic or stupidity, starts messing around with the price and drops his margin to try to beg for a few more sales. Indeed, it seems that the majority of e-commerce websites are always on sale... and that is the end of the game for a real artisan. Want to know why so many artisan designers are disappearing? Their margins are insufficient to sustain their people and their operations, and their prices more often than not pushed down by e-commerce selling, are too low. Our margins at all points are what is needed to get the job done right, consistently and into the future--to pay all human beings what is needed to continue to do the work with nothing less than total excellence, total sustainability, and total ethical treatment of all people in the entire supply chain. There is a reason why the top-of-the-top don't sell on e-commerce, and that is probably the biggest one. All it takes is one bozo to start discounting a brand and the whole worldwide value of that brand is collapsed and put in jeopardy. Sorry DVD, but after almost forty years of building this movement, we don't need any of that, and we avoid it like the plague that it is. If you live far away from a dealer, it means 2 things... one, perhaps the retailers in your area are not doing their job very well, and two, it is not impossible to buy our works from existing dealers. You are welcome to communicate with them via email, weChat, telephone, whatever works, and they are authorized to work with you directly using these channels to inform, assist, sell and service our work over distance. We choose our dealers very carefully, and we base much of our selection on their intention and commitment to provide exceptional service to their customers who are serious about acquiring and owning our work, and we are continuously teaching, training and developing their capacity to serve the GBS customer better and better now and in the future.

                              GBS is available worldwide on the internet, you're just not going to see it in your face all over the planet on a dumbed down click-through, ugly and totally inadequately uninformative e-commerce merchant's site that is being run by an IT tycoon whose ego has overrun his reality like a Bezos, Neves, Marchetti, or worse, a small independent trying to be like one of them. We are tailors and our work is a very, very analog thing, not a digital or virtual one. We believe and insist on discretion, impeccable taste and very personal expert and knowledgable service. It's a part of our design.

                              Let us know where you are, and we will be more than glad to begin to introduce you to some of our dealers and their GBS in-store specialists. Don't be disappointed. The dream is alive, and its all about real human contact with real human clothes.

                              Hope this is helpful and thanks again for your post.

                              Best wishes,
                              Geoffrey & the team

                              Comment

                              • dvd
                                Junior Member
                                • Jun 2012
                                • 9

                                Originally posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
                                (...) If you live far away from a dealer, it means 2 things... one, perhaps the retailers in your area are not doing their job very well, and two, it is not impossible to buy our works from existing dealers. You are welcome to communicate with them via email, weChat, telephone, whatever works, and they are authorized to work with you directly using these channels to inform, assist, sell and service our work over distance. We choose our dealers very carefully, and we base much of our selection on their intention and commitment to provide exceptional service to their customers who are serious about acquiring and owning our work, and we are continuously teaching, training and developing their capacity to serve the GBS customer better and better now and in the future.

                                GBS is available worldwide on the internet, you're just not going to see it in your face all over the planet on a dumbed down click-through, ugly and totally inadequately uninformative e-commerce merchant's site that is being run by an IT tycoon whose ego has overrun his reality like a Bezos, Neves, Marchetti, or worse, a small independent trying to be like one of them. We are tailors and our work is a very, very analog thing, not a digital or virtual one. We believe and insist on discretion, impeccable taste and very personal expert and knowledgable service. It's a part of our design.

                                Let us know where you are, and we will be more than glad to begin to introduce you to some of our dealers and their GBS in-store specialists. Don't be disappointed. The dream is alive, and its all about real human contact with real human clothes.

                                Hope this is helpful and thanks again for your post.

                                Best wishes,
                                Geoffrey & the team
                                Dear Geoffrey (and team),

                                Thank you for your input. Really appreciate you taking the time to answer us all. As you know, I have already started to plan some of my future buys from you, and that will most definitely involve a trip to Italy.

                                Anyways, I did not intend to play the role of a victim here. I live in Norway, and I believe the closest shop would be Hostem. I travel to London once a year, and communicating with them ahead should not really be a problem. If you have some other shops "nearby" you could recommend, please let me know.

                                All the best,
                                DVD

                                Comment

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