Geoffrey B. Small

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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Matteo Carcelli's images in Italy of Jackie Shen at Cavarzere Venezia
for Eth0s now appear in Nasty Magazine.
With many thanks to everyone, Geoffrey

http://www.nastymagazine.com/fashion...tteo-carcelli/





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[yubbermax]

Beautiful photos, the first one is mesmerizing. Your link is broken though, this should work: http://www.nastymagazine.com/fashion...tteo-carcelli/

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Dear yubbermax, thanks for your kind comment and correction, both much appreciated. We are great fans of Matteo Carcelli and honored that he was able to shoot our work in Cavarzere for Eth0s in Shanghai. Along with Eugene Rabkin's recent beautiful essay of our workrooms, it seems like this tiny depressed town in the Basso Polesine region of northern Italy is fast becoming an international fashion shoot destination location. -- All joking aside however, there are a number of excellent new-generation photographers out there now appearing on the global fashion stage that are representing a new vision of what fashion imagery can be about. So next up: another photo essay on our work by another exciting new photographer on the international scene from Spain. Thanks again and Best wishes, Geoffrey

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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Antonio Macarro's iconographic images of our GBS "Witness" men's collection shot in Paris
and styled by Pedro Canicoba appear in the current print issue of Many of Them, published in Spain. The essay, all shot using traditional analog film photography and developing techniques, features intriguingly elongated proportions, emotionless portraiture, and beautifully rendered
textures and colors of the incredible fabrics from the collection:















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[Geoffrey B. Small]

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With many thanks to everyone...
Best wishes, Geoffrey


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[Geoffrey B. Small]

More press coming out on our work... here, a perfect example of why I would prefer to stay behind a camera- instead of in front of one, especially if it's for TV (I thought that light in my face was going to kill me). And after six weeks of only 4 hours of sleep a night and yet another Paris collection for women coming up just 4 weeks away, well, what can one say... looked like hell and could barely speak... as Balenciaga (the real one) once described it: "it's a dog's life." Nevertheless, many thanks to everyone who worked on this record-breaking collection and all who have helped and supported us to get this far. Best wishes, Geoffrey

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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Well, it's great to see the forum site back up and back to its normal look again. We extend our great thanks and appreciation to Faust,
Ahimsa and the entire SZ crew for getting things back up under such pressure and unforeseen circumstances. We have not been very active
here for awhile as we too have been under immense pressure as our growing Italian workroom team at Cavarzere struggles with the
company's largest backorder log in history and a record (albeit clearly oversold production-wise) spring/summer 2016 season. After back-to-
back runway collections and shows in Paris just 5 weeks apart there has been little time or energy to consider posting anything until we
started to make some headway with our order logs and be able to come up for air. Major deliveries are now starting to arrive in Tokyo
and New York of our latest works, and very soon London, Berlin and Bilbao as well. Much has happened in the fashion media circus, that I
would like to comment more upon in the days ahead perhaps, including presentation and delivery schedules as they relate to real
artisanal creation and production versus the rest of the industry. But for now, we just wanted to check in, make a brief announcement about
our next delivery, say hello to everyone, and thank the SZ people for all their time and effort to get the forum back up and running as quickly
as they did.

Thank you and best wishes,

Geoffrey





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[Geoffrey B. Small]

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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We are pleased to also inform you that a smaller more limited selection of beautiful new pieces for men and women is now
arriving at IF in New York as well.

But please note that the selections and edits are quite different, between each store, clearly reflecting the interpretations of
its unique owner and staff. And that each delivery was created individually and separately in our workrooms at Cavarzere Venezia,
as a distinct artistic project dedicated to its own exhibition and gallery space. This unique production approach greatly impacts our
delivery timing... we are known in the industry as being one of the latest deliverers each season (more on this later). But it
makes an enormous difference on the individual, personalized long-term artistic and sartorial value of each store's delivery that
has proven itself to be fundamental to the growing demand and success of our work in the market over the past decade.

For example, the all-new Piacenza Super 150's ultralux suit design (below) was created only for Hotoveli in the entire world,
and is truly a spectacular example of some of the most advanced modern supersoft handmade clothing now coming out of the
amazing Via Spalato workrooms.

If you are in the New York area, we cordially invite you to experience it in person...

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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OR take a look at this phenomenal 1850's modified pattern reproduction jacket
also created only for Hotoveli...







Made from an original 19th century razor-sharp fit modified frock coat
pattern from our extensive historic tailoring research (note for
example the beautiful pocket positioning and angle, the early 18th
century military sleeve cuff detail design, and the pronounced rear-
diagonal positioned shoulder seam in the pictures - all key design
elements of the period)…












And cut using a very special 'greggio' organic pure linen stripe
(which was not treated or finished with any industrial chemicals)
woven exclusively for us in Sarcedo, Italy by Luigi Parisotto, a
longtime collaborating GBS key partner and perhaps the best
artisan research weaver using power loom technologies in the
world today…







All beautifully finished inside with precisely sewn satin bias-tape trim,
french-seaming center-back and elegant viscose pinstripe lining panels
woven for us by the super lining specialist weaver Tessitura Mauri in Como...












Then, each individually hand dyed in our studios using a process which
requires a minimum of 8 hours of totally expert work for a single piece
to achieve its special color and patina effects...







The design also features remarkable hand made covered buttons
created exclusively in our workrooms at Cavarzere- as always,
individually handstitched to the garment using our own special
technique...







-and no less than ten real hand-stitched and marked buttonholes (that
require at least 8-10 minutes to create each one) executed in luxurious
pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads...

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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...only 3 pieces of this special version of the super limited edition EVJ13
jacket design were made by hand in the entire world, each of them
exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City….



























We cordially invite you to contact or visit the store to begin to
experience these remarkable examples of our latest sartorial work
in person.

As always, thanks for reading.
Best wishes,

Geoffrey & the Team


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[Faust]

So the new stuff at Hotoveli yesterday. SO BEAUTIFUL!

[NoisyArmchair]

When's exclusive Hostem pieces? I need to grope more of your work with my mani povera.

[augustinn]

Hotoveli jacket is lovely

[TabulaRasa]

Geoffrey B Small EVJ03 Linen Jacket

Very happy to have been able to acquire one of Geoffrey's EVJ03 jackets from Eth0s just the other day. Had I known about the EVJ13 I may have held off but I'm still a very contented man.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

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Thank you so much Faust, augustinn, NoisyArmchair and TabulaRasa for your
kind comments. Tabula, the EVJ03 is a spectacular piece which features the
best of our extreme handmade technology jacket making including fully hand-
padstitched canvas front and collar construction and superlight fabric, thank
you so much for your investment in our work and support for Eth0s.
NoisyArmchair, we will feature some of the pieces created for Hostem soon,
in the meantime I would like to show a little more of Hotoveli's recent collection
delivery pieces. Continuing on the same beautiful hand dyed linen stripe which
the EVJ13special above has using a very slim historical pattern cut and fit, in
order to accommodate clients seeking a more relaxed fit- a special version of
the super limited edition LUJ14 double-breasted jacket design was also
specially made for Hotoveli....











One of only 2 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively for
Hotoveli in New York. It was created from our own exclusive double-
breasted unlined blazer pattern...









using remarkable real olive wood buttons made for us in Padova, and
real hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut
and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads...





The piece also features beautiful interior taped seam finishing using
special Italian satin trims...










And a superb double-stitched french seamed center back construction
with elegant center-vent styling and construction...









and cut in a very special greggio organic striped pure linen (which was
not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by
Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo...





Each individually hand dyed in our studios using a process which
required a minimum of 8 hours of work for a single piece to achieve
its special color and patina effects.

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[Geoffrey B. Small]

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there are also some incredible handmade shirting pieces in the collection such
as this special version of the GS02 shirt design …










created in a remarkable new hand dyed silk and cotton super 120's double-
twisted yarn fabric developed exclusively for us by Luigi Parisotto...





With real mother-of-pearl buttons, beautifully finished all french seam interiors,
and of course, our wonderful pure silk Bozzolo thread handmade buttonholes
throughout on the shirt's 14 buttonholes which took almost 3 hours of super-
skilled work to create for each single shirt...










One of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively
for Hotoveli in New York...





The design also features a removable top collar for a true “2-in-1” design
concept use for extra long-term wear and investment value- providing both
collared and band-collared ways to wear it (2 looks in one) as well as giving
you invaluable longer term double protection against wearing out the collar
fabric--the precise area where most tailored shirts normally wear out…





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[Geoffrey B. Small]

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"Super-Trouser" Redefined- one of just five in the world

AN incredible piece of tailoring mastery. When we first set out to create this design, our goal was to stretch the horizon of hand work technologies for what the designer market today has seen and experienced when it comes to trousers. From our extensive tailoring research, we decided upon an original authentic early 1900's super hand detail work reproduction trouser pattern that on first glance by our top team of designer tailors... looked impossible to be able to recreate in today's world and at today's labor costs and skill sets- not to mention what the average designer store retailer believes is the limit for a pair of pants to be priced at these days with all the so-called crises in the market and the economy and the whatever other excuse somebody is always coming up with to make up for mediocre merchandise offerings. But, we decided to try. And after successfully building and introducing it to the world in Paris, the design began to generate orders from our best store clients inspite of the fact that it would have to retail at more than a typical jacket from most any other designer's collection. Even in tiny series though, the article was an enormous challenge to produce at any price--quite simply, it is a complex, mountain of work with stringent spec requirements that forced our people to stretch to new levels of total excellence, discipline, and yes, determination--to remind ourselves of our simple single unified objective: to be able to make the best handmade clothes in the world today. And show the world what is still possible, and what is still so beautiful that it merits its right and honorable place in a marketplace fast being filled with little better than printed raincoats and t-shirts made in Bangladesh or tim-buk-tu with nothing more than a catchy slogan to merit its obviously exaggerated price tag. For those who fall for and give away their (obviously not hard-earned) money on that pitifully sad excuse for a modern designer collection concept, we say go ahead... and smile to ourselves at both the vapidity and the stupidity of some members of the human race. Obviously, having money to spend and having a basic level of intelligence do not necessarily go hand in hand these days. We on the other hand have a different cause and a different mission, and our work is dedicated to a different level of human being with a different level of taste, investment value and moral compass. For that kind of person, we will expend blood, sweat and tear to create, build, and deliver the GBS NVP02. A true Super-Trouser. It is undoubtedly one of the most unique and rare examples of extreme hand made clothing technology being created anywhere in the world today, especially when it comes to a pair of trousers. And we are damn proud to be able to say that we, this team of human beings, who have no fear of technical sartorial challenge, no matter how difficult to aspire to, no matter how maniacally impossible the odds, in a world where nobody knows how to make nothin' anywhere anymore and is even more unwilling to pay for it... that we, and perhaps we alone, can and do make this trouser today--in this world. I provide a quick rundown here to begin to explain why. First, it is in pattern cut, fit and build an exact replica of a 1905 English marine tailored trouser. Anybody who knows about making exact historical clothing replicas or duplicating tailored garments well, will know already the difficulties that would have been encountered and dealt with to achieve this kind of result…






For fabric, a very special herringbone weave heavier-weight linen woven
exclusively for us in Varese Italy was chosen to create the piece, then specially
hand dyed in our studios with special processes which took about 8 hours
for each piece to achieve its marvelous patina, softness, and unique effects...










The design also features a stunning interior perfectly following the
original early 1900's example that is full of extreme handsewn
finishing details all around the completely hand-built waistline, lining
skirt, crotch sections, and even hems and hem bottom protectors of
the trouser...





























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[Geoffrey B. Small]

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The split-center back, and back-belt waist adjuster provides elegant
classic comfort and adjustability...




along with ultra-personalized hand made suspenders in vintage recycle
handcut leathers with special weave linen,cotton and viscosa tapes
and cording custom-designed and assembled in our own workrooms
and leather buckles made for us in Padova...





A study in details: for example fine machined-work secondary reinforcement
seaming executed with extreme precision and accuracy throughout the entire
piece's construction which further added to the exaggerated and lengthy
building process. Note too, that every double, or triple-stitch seam (as in the
photo below) is performed in our workrooms using single-needle equipment
as per the original turn-of-the-century piece and technique. We are purists at
the Via Spalato Sartoria, we do not use any double-needle or triple-needle
machines. So remember, this work takes 2-3 times more work and time than
it would in a typical jeans type of factory operation using multiple-needle
machinery. But it would never, ever, look, feel, or be as beautiful as this...










as well the amazing special advanced design buttons (look at them carefully,
that is not plastic folks... that is real horn) made exclusively for us in Parma
by Italy’s greatest living button-makers, Claudio and Cinzia Fontana...










and of course, our signature hand stitched buttonholes that require 8-10
minutes for each one in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads,
to complement the extensive handstitched interior detail work...










Detail after detail: here the perfect reproduction of the elegant chevron
shaped top-seaming detail work with minute, super-tight stitch length
normally used on fine shirtwork from the original early 1900's design...





The special version of the super limited edition NVP02 trouser design is
one of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world, just 3 of which
were created for all of North America, each exclusively for Hotoveli in
New York...





One of the most intricately studied and constructed trousers in the world
today, even more so when you consider that with all its unending and minute
precise details, it was not built on a line production where different people
could focus on a specific operation in large quantities, but by a single human
being, one of our super-tailors at Via Spalato, who had to build each piece
entirely by him or herself. Indeed, we challenge any firm out there, large or
small, to match this growing level of sartorial and technical supremacy that is
taking place within our incredible creative and production operations at
Cavarzere. We cordially invite you to contact the store in NY to begin to
experience this incredible trouser in person…


next up: 2 remarkable new pieces for Gotham summer and fun.

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[old]

Wow, the neckpoint is aligned with the armscye on this one! And the shoulder seam on the bias! amazing historical patterns Geoffrey!