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Thread: Geoffrey B. Small

  1. #241


    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 09-10-2014 at 04:16 PM.

  2. #242

    Default Haiti earthquake help

    Dear SZ'ers,

    Just like to take a quick moment to post-up a choice of links to send a few bucks or more to help the earthquake rescue and recovery efforts in Haiti. Every little bit helps and the need is definitely urgent as I'm sure you all know...

    • AmeriCares:

    • Doctors Without Borders:

    • Oxfam America:

    • Yéle Haiti:

    Thanks for your consideration and help. If you have already done something, please pass this along to others...

    Best wishes,


  3. #243


    Very good idea to post something here. I think we all can afford to spend a small amount of our income on a donation.

    For german members:

    For european members:

  4. #244


    Right on Geoff...

    another site taking donations:

    There's some great stuff posted in this thread, I look forward to sitting down and giving it a good read. Thanks Mr. Small.

    let me show you a few thangs

  5. #245
    Senior Member MaxM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009


    Quote Originally Posted by ledger View Post
    By the way Geoffrey I forgot to say that I really do like the image on the invitation.
    Is it the actual invitation or just some kind of announcement?

    Or did he send you one?

  6. #246


    Quote Originally Posted by MaxM View Post
    Is it the actual invitation or just some kind of announcement?

    Or did he send you one?
    I was wondering the same thing. It seems very private and exclusive, and yet it's posted here so..

    Mr. Small, is this just an announcement letting us know you'll be showing in Paris? Or are folks in this forum invited to come view your collection? I'm assuming the former as it states that it's by appointment only.

  7. #247
    Senior Member MaxM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009


    Could someone please set matters straight?

  8. #248


    I think that Geoffrey was just posting the invite for your information and to keep you informed as to how the industry works. Unfortunately, it is not possible to open the showroom to the general public (even SZers). Designers, press and buyers all have to be very protective of their work and therefore the showroom is a very protected place. Having said that, the SZers will be represented at many of the showrooms, including Geoffrey's, by Faust, Lowery, Fuuma, DHC, and of course the old hobo, so fear not, I'm sure that you'll get regular updates.

    Incidentally, I was thinking of starting a photo blog for you guys to get a little behind the scenes action. If anyone is interested, let me know.
    "I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde

  9. #249
    Senior Member MaxM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009


    Thank you for the clarification hobo

    Quote Originally Posted by hobo View Post
    Incidentally, I was thinking of starting a photo blog for you guys to get a little behind the scenes action. If anyone is interested, let me know.
    Well i wouldn't mind at all

  10. #250


    M, would be interested to see this. Will need some text for context. Great if you have the time.

    Quote Originally Posted by hobo View Post
    Incidentally, I was thinking of starting a photo blog for you guys to get a little behind the scenes action. If anyone is interested, let me know.
    Quote Originally Posted by eat me View Post
    If you can't see the work past the fucking taped seams , cold dye wash or raw hems - perhaps you shouldn't really be looking at all.

  11. #251

    Default Madness and loneliness of an independent designer 1/3

    Dear friends on SZ,

    Thanks to everyone for your very kind posts, PM's, and email responses and comments to the 1st fabric story installment (). I am working on the next one, but right now need to deal with the always impossible January schedule of SS2010 production work obligations and creation our new AW2010-11 men's collection which must be completed and in Paris in less than 2 days. Suddenly thought it might be interesting to share on SZ a few of the quick weird thoughts that flash through the mind, an inside look into the madness in the mind of what some of us go through each time we must give birth to a new collection that will be shown in Paris...

    The Madness and loneliness
    of an independent designer

    "Work is done,
    and then forgotten,
    and so
    it lasts forever"

    the beautiful images
    and posts
    that have appeared
    on the Yohji thread
    at SZ,
    the melancholy
    of looking again
    at the great work
    done by one
    of the great masters
    and groups
    of our time,

    and how fragile
    it can become
    once one has lost
    his independence...

    The painful
    fact that he
    is not alone
    in his fate--

    an entire generation
    has already,

    is on its way

    to the same

    Now I
    must face
    the great void
    once again,

    the blank abyss
    of trying
    to find
    to do
    the next collection.

    And how to earn
    the next six months
    of work,
    and a place in the arena

    The stress,
    time pressure,
    lack of resources,
    total fear
    that one must face
    and combat with
    each time
    to be able
    to enter
    and merit
    a place
    in the world's most competitive designer arena.


    The appreciation and gratitude
    to still have a chance to do so--
    as an independent.

    To hold out,
    and remain
    a person
    by no one.

    No "producers."
    no "backers"
    no "agents"
    no "licensees"
    no "distributors"
    no trade show "organizers"
    no "King" retailer
    to tell me what to do,
    to dilute,
    get in the way,
    or as in so many cases--
    take over
    our ability
    to do exactly
    what our vision,
    and hands
    can and will

    God willing.

    No need
    to take part
    and be a victim
    of the "system"
    that has eaten up
    and ruined
    an endless string
    of the great
    and not-so great.

    The industrial machine
    that uses
    the designer
    as pawn.

    Just God above,
    my family whom I love,
    and the best clients in the world
    to answer to, nothing else...

    and commitment
    to work our hearts out
    and give them
    everything we have
    inside us
    and beyond.

    every new season
    is the toughest one
    we have ever dealt with.

    Every new collection
    the most challenging.

    And this time is no different.

    Especially when
    you are a real

    The laws
    of Paris collection work
    remain firm.
    We are in a race
    to the very end,
    the grinding-work
    of ideas
    and more importantly,
    their execution
    with only
    our minds,
    and energy
    to carry us there

    We must always
    remind ourselves
    of the painful truth
    "that the last thing in the world
    that most people need
    is another fashion designer,
    and his or her new collection."


    We are not doctors
    saving people
    from immediate pain
    or death,
    or even a plumber
    fixing a toilet
    which does not work.
    The needs we fill
    are generally viewed
    as a more latent sort.

    So we must constantly
    answer the question,
    "what are you doing
    and proposing
    that is so special,
    that merits
    your very existence?"

    Answer the question.

    Back to reality.

    Back to work.

    More decisions.
    More work.
    Don't get lost though.
    Keep your head above it.
    Look at it.
    Use your eyes
    above all else.
    it's a visual medium
    we're in.
    It has to look good.
    Like it.
    Don't like it.
    Then get it done.
    Stitch more.
    Make it better
    or move on.
    Next one.
    Find the groove.
    Gotta find the groove.
    Where is the road
    taking us to?
    Keep digging.
    Find the groove.
    it's 5 in the morning already,
    another day
    Gotta sleep
    at least a few hours...
    where is that groove?
    Man, my body
    Don't get sick.
    Or you're out.
    The madness of the whole thing.
    No wonder they gave up,
    gave in,
    you want
    to call it-
    every last one of them...

    hope they are all ok
    and getting more rest
    than me today,
    and maybe
    made themselves
    a pot of money.

    But that's their story,
    not mine.
    In New Hampshire as they say,
    "live free or die."

    That's me
    for today...
    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011 at 10:58 AM.

  12. #252

    Default Madness and loneliness of an independent designer 2/3

    Keep digging.
    Where is that groove?
    The groove is
    where the freedom is.
    Find the groove and you find the freedom.
    Freedom is truth.
    Truth is beauty.
    Find the beauty
    and find the freedom.
    At least for one more season...
    keep digging.
    Find the groove,
    I think I can see it...

    It's like
    stepping out
    into the void
    you see...

    hoping to get to the other side
    and find the daylight and the path of
    solid soil and ground and trees
    But there are no guarantees.
    Perhaps, this time you will fall
    like Prometheus
    reaching for the sun

    Vic Chestnutt

    you just took your life
    and I just heard about you....

    "and so all you observers
    in your scrutiny,

don't count my scars
    like tree rings

my jigsaw disposition,
    its piecemeal properties,

are either smoked,
    or honey cured,

by the panic pure."

    Vic Chestnutt
    (deceased) Christmas Day 2009

    panic pure
    I hear you.
    for real

    wake up

    Stay at it, man
    Don't give up now
    It ain't over 'till its over
    you gotta get it out
    get it out
    while you got the chance
    the message
    Tell 'em
    the story
    they don't know
    they gotta know
    what happened
    to those people
    all of 'em
    Louis Slotkin
    Lake Karachay,
    Atoll de Mururoa,
    La Hague
    Three Mile Island
    The Rutherford building in Manchester
    depleted uranium casings
    aboard B52's,
    and B47's
    over Spain
    over Greenland
    over North Carolina
    accidentally dropping
    nuclear bombs!
    that were never recovered
    they're out there
    submarines sinking
    satellites crashing
    Northeast Canada
    explosions in nuclear factories
    The Urals
    West Gorky
    Baltic Sea

    all the near misses
    so many of them


    and all the victims
    not so lucky
    all those poor people
    how they died
    on those fateful days
    of warning
    how they died
    skin dripping off their bones
    turning to green jelly
    eaten alive
    by atomic energy
    by neutrons
    smashing into dna
    cells gone beserk
    in 15 days
    or cancer
    in 15 years
    or 20
    or 25
    but it's coming
    you've taken your hit
    marked for death
    choose your killer
    depleted uranium
    of nuclear fission
    exploded into the atmosphere
    burned into the air
    used in the bullets
    dumped into the oceans
    leaked into the rivers
    the lakes
    the ground
    the soil
    the fish
    the produce
    the meat
    the food
    we eat
    it's everywhere
    you can't see it
    you can't smell it
    it just goes right through you
    it's in your body
    and it kills you.
    he's got cancer
    she's got cancer
    you've got cancer
    i've got cancer
    they've got cancer
    it's the latest trend
    a worldwide epidemic
    we've all got cancer
    and guess where
    it's coming from

    439 of them
    around the world
    104 in America
    59 in France
    15 in England
    17 in Germany
    51 in Japan

    and now

    they want to build more

    300 of them
    in the next ten years
    the first will "fire up"

    in 2012
    yeah, that's right 2012

    in Finland

    then Flamanville
    10 to 15 of them
    in Italy
    one right where I live
    5 kilometers from Venice
    what about the food?
    what about the kids?
    what about the floods?
    what about the earthquakes?
    what about the volcanoes?
    what about the view?
    what about the water?
    what about the fabrics?
    gotta be dreaming
    but no
    they are dead serious
    and bringing soldiers too
    just like their brand name suv's,
    sunglasses and jeans
    now they think need their
    nuclear energy too
    take the most beautiful country in the world
    and ruin it for eternity
    in a decade
    but whoa
    that's not the end of it
    80 more in India
    and oh my god,
    100 in China...
    what about the floods?
    what about the earthquakes?
    what about the milk?
    and lead in the Barbie's?
    now these guys are going to handle plutonium....
    and then
    two or three
    in another 60
    developing and 3rd world nations...
    the United Arab Emirates
    North Korea
    you name it
    they'll all have one.

    Each one
    an atom bomb
    "under control"
    24 hours a day
    just one
    human error
    or earthquake
    terrorist act
    from another
    or worse,
    capable of
    3-5 megatons
    able to kill millions
    and render
    entire continents
    to humans
    for 250,000

    Each one
    sending back,
    plutonium fuel and waste shipments
    all over the planet
    by truck,
    and ferry.

    You may
    be passing one
    in your car on the freeway right now.

    God help us.

    God help me

    Every collection
    may be the last one

    the last chance to stay in the arena,
    To have a voice.

    God help me
    tell the story

    of the people

    of Chernobyl,
    of Mayak,
    of Hiroshima,
    and more

    The children
    the families
    the mothers
    the fathers
    the liquidators
    the hibakusha
    all of them

    Don't let their
    sacrifice be
    covered up

    Don't let their
    pain have been
    in vain

    Get off your a_ses
    Unplug the TV
    viral the message
    spread it
    the truth
    get 'em into the voting booth
    before it's too late
    before there are none

    Let 'em know
    that madness
    awaits them

    nuclear renaissance
    begins in 2010

    and it's coming
    to where you live.

    Wherever you are.

    Panic pure
    for sure


    wake up

    it's only fashion...

    you're just
    a designer

    shut up and make your frocks

    who needs
    another one
    of you anyway?

    Live free or die.

    just joking.

    in haste,

    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011 at 11:00 AM.

  13. #253

    Default Madness and loneliness of an independent designer 3/3

    Post script

    ps. apologies to anyone for the brevity and haphazardnous of the above. Any reference to names and objects is purely for fictitional purposes of the stressed out and delirious author and does not refer to any actual existing, living or dead individuals or persons or corporations or countries. With respect to all humanity ...

    A little girl's doll photographed still laying on a field in the city of Pripyat, 23 years after the explosion of Chernobyl, where 45,000 men, women and children were evacuated suddenly in buses after being told they would need to leave their homes temporarily for a few days on April 29, 1986 as a burning cloud of deadly levels of radioactive nuclear waste rained down over thousands of kilometres of territory around them. No one has ever returned to live there. The abandoned city today is a testament to the safety and real risks of nuclear energy, if you remain more than several hours in the city and anywhere within a vast distance in its countryside, you will still receive a lethal dose of radiation that will kill you within weeks. Yet so few have been informed. And now it is being rammed through as a clean energy solution to global warming. Right. Do we really need 740 of these by 2020?

    Related links:

    Paul Fusco's story
    (magnum photos)
    YouTube version

    The true battle of Chernobyl uncensored

    Italian version (versione italiano):
    Etiempolibresite%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Flofiversion%2Find ex%2Ephp%3Ft5619%2

  14. #254


    Always love your posts, this did remind me of this video

    I am undecided on nuclear power, I see the necessity in our current situation in regards to resources and global warming however the detrimental effects of waste and high risk are quite overwelming.My very simple conclusion on it is that for now it is so depended upon that it seems hard to stop it, however it is clear that it is only a temporary solution.

  15. #255
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Long hard road out of hell


    I had a pleasure of meeting Geoffrey in Paris. I was utterly blown away by two things:

    1) The quality of the materials, from finest overdyed cashmeres to washed Italian silks for the linings, and construction quality.
    2) His honest and gentle character.

    Very happy to have you here and a personal thanks from me.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  16. #256



    I think you might appreciate this journalist's site. It is often unpleasant though.

    I want to thank you for the coat I am wearing. It's the black wool overcoat from Sartorialoft. It has been my armor this winter in Illinois.

    Hobo: We all dress up. We all put on our armour before we walk out the door, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that we’re trying to be someone else.

  17. #257


    I could have written exactly the same thing as Faust, but my words hold less value here, so yeah. ditto I guess. I felt really priviledged

  18. #258


    I will join the choir, Geoffrey is one of the nicest guys I've met and every time I've talked with him I feel like I'm learning something. the man has incredible insight from the industry and world of fashion, which he proved once again with our conversations over after hours ramen
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."


  19. #259


    I had the pleasure of meeting Geoffrey and inspecting his work for the first time in person.

    I was deeply moved. I have not been so touched by the tactile experience of a garment since the very first time I experienced Yohji Yamamoto. Geoffrey is clearly a passionate, hard-working individual and this shines through his work.

    Geoffrey, thank you for showing me that there is hope somewhere in the 'system' of fashion.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  20. #260

    Default I will try to help you decide...

    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry View Post
    Always love your posts, this did remind me of this video...

    I am undecided on nuclear power, I see the necessity in our current situation in regards to resources and global warming however the detrimental effects of waste and high risk are quite overwelming.My very simple conclusion on it is that for now it is so depended upon that it seems hard to stop it, however it is clear that it is only a temporary solution.
    Dear Huckleberry, I will try to help you decide....
    thanks very much for your post and video from Cambridge Ideas, I have given the video a very thorough review, and I just don't buy their numbers. Fundamentally, they do not address consumption behaviour and conservation nearly enough for me-- beginning with their use of 40 watt lightbulbs for their demonstration. There is absolutely no reason for anyone to be using that kind of lightbulb anymore for anything, and the very fact that they did so without any mention of the new low consumption bulbs immediately makes me think they are working for, or funded by, the energy industry interests. I changed all of our lightbulbs to low wattage fluorescents in all our residential and work spaces here in Italy in 2008 and in one month saw my electric bills go down by more than half. Just by changing the lightbulbs. Old 100watt lightbulbs can now be cheaply replaced by new ones that use 11 watts for equivalent light. That's almost a 10-fold reduction in energy consumption and need. The nuclear and electrical grid energy industries want you to believe that you really need them and you need more and more power so you must accept a temporary solution now like nuclear. But nuclear is not a temporary solution in any sense of the word. Once you startup a nuclear reactor it takes forever to shut it down and even longer to get rid of it, including the waste which starting with plutonium has a half life of 250,000 years.

    Given all the costs and perils nuclear presents to me, my family and the next 6000 generations of my race, frankly, I don't think I need all that electricity, thanks. In fact, if you really look into it--these companies plan to sell most of the electricity on the new unregulated energy markets to other utilities in other countries much more than furnish you with the electricity you actually need.

    In any case, if I had to choose between Leukemia and even life by candlelight at night for the rest of my life, you know what, I 'd go for the candles in a second (ever talk to someone dying of leukemia? pretty nasty way to go--especially if you are a kid--the most likely to get it if you live near a nuclear powerstation).

    Meanwhile, if you are in the UK I hope you're not living or driving near Sellafield or Cambria last week...
    better drive carefully, that ain't no milktruck you might be following...

    Or better yet, how do you feel about this one? nuclear party. everyone's invited. Rock on.

    The fundamental problem is this:
    80 percent of the world's resources
    are controlled and being used up
    by 20 percent of the world's population.

    Our totally rampant and unchecked consumption at all levels is at the core of the world's problems. We don't need more energy at our disposal, we need to waste less, conserve more, and actually begin to live much better for ourselves, and among our brethren, as a result. Fashion is the same and mirrors the situation. But nuclear is far more dangerous for all of us.

    There is simply no margin for error.

    Please think it over Huckleberry, before it's too late.
    Thanks again for your post and best wishes, Geoffrey

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