Geoffrey B. Small

[DHC]

Love his "principles":

1. respect for the individual
2. service to others
3. strive for excellence
4. strive to have fun
5. loyalty & trust

I think the list is admirable and find the qualities lacking nowadays. As such, I fail to see how this is laughable. I can see how 4 may come across a little facetious for a principle, but if you know Geoffrey, you know that he means "to take everything on in this plane of existence with a sense of enjoyment and celebration of life", which may be lost in the brevity of his declaration of principles. Geoffrey's a pretty deep fellow and he is most certainly nobody's fool. At any rate, these are sound words that I feel everyone should take to heart. It would make the world a better place.

[DHC]

...it's this intellectual process that leads him to the end product which is so beautiful (and, I admit, sometimes, a little out there!). For some designers, it's a purely visual process, but for Geoffrey, it's the opposite, it starts with ideas and principals! For me that makes is more interesting than something which is just art for art’s sake.

This is what I was telling Fuuma pretty much verbatim, the morning I kidnapped him to introduce him to Geoffrey. Though I stressed that some of the work is out there more than you had above (mine wouldn't have fallen under parenthesis in written word), but I knew Fuuma would appreciate Geoffrey's work and I thought they'd get along famously. BTW, that was the morning I ran into you and Geoffrey along with Fab Fan. Anyways, I think its great the level of respect that Fuuma now has for the man. Sometimes you have to know what's behind the curtain to find that deeper appreciate for a body of work, (not that his work in and of itself is doesn't warrant respect). Its just with Geoffrey there is a lot of love, integrity and a slew of other ideals. Its really a beautiful thing.

[DHC]

"Ode to Toussaint Louverture" Geoffrey B. Small's Autumn/Winter 2006-7 collection presented at Numero Homme Paris September 2006 as shot by Karl Lagerfeld.

Photographs by Karl Lagerfeld
Courtesy of Geoffrey B. Small

[tjoek]

Wow that's brilliant!
Are these for haute couture only?

[pipcleo]

wake up
half londons poncing round in frockcoats

[hobo]

Yes, but were they in 2005, when this collection was conceived?

+ These shots are by Karl Lagerfeld. If Karl shot Rick or Carol, I don't think that they would be the broadest representation of their collections.

I'm going to email DHC some shots of my stuff, which he will post, so that you can get a better idea of what I love about his work.

[sammywaslow]

Only own one item from Mr Small - these cotton striped trousers. Eminently wearable, perfect for casual Friday. The last pic is an excuse to show off my Augusta camel leather slip ons.

[DHC]

come on. the seam work is out of control! does anything really need to be said about this coat?

[Jorge Hache]

Beautiful coat, one of the best GBS i've seen

[hobo]

I like the stripped trousers, we exactly the same ones in last summer but this coat; this is the kind of GBS that floats my boat! It holds its own with any of the big boys (Altieri, Rick, Grandma, Carol)! This is where he excels. Historical patterns with a super modern twist!

I had this one in, in cashmere for the winter and it's the first coat that's nearly tempted me out of my old CDG Homme+. I wish I'd got it now! I have it in store in Black Linen with natural bone buttons, at the moment. Beautiful!!!

Nice images, thanks DHC

[DHC]

I like the stripped trousers, we exactly the same ones in last summer but this coat; this is the kind of GBS that floats my boat! It holds its own with any of the big boys (Altieri, Rick, Grandma, Carol)! This is where he excels. Historical patterns with a super modern twist!

I had this one in, in cashmere for the winter and it's the first coat that's nearly tempted me out of my old CDG Homme+. I wish I'd got it now! I have it in store in Black Linen with natural bone buttons, at the moment. Beautiful!!!

Nice images, thanks DHC

I was a bit hesitant to put up pictures from Sartorialoft, but felt it needed to be done. People need to be exposed to the work if Geoffrey is going to see the kind of recognition he so richly deserves. We've touched upon his character and noted his philosophies (lightly grazed at that). But I think we should also touch on the work that he produces too.

Let's kick it off with this.

As Hobo mentioned, GBS does make use of historical patterns. I think its important to remember that there is a great deal of research and development that goes into recreating pieces from say the 18th century and maintaining the essence or spirit of that piece as an homage to masters passed....all while updating it with not just the correct fabric selections, but the treatments thereof, to bring it back to the table with new found relevance in our "modern" time and for the future as well.

I'm a sucker for excellent hand work as it provides garments with characteristics that are unique to each piece. And Geoffrey's work has more than the mass majority of other designers out there and it is quality. Hand dyed for calibrated color and hand washed to bring out the supple qualities of a fabric. These are not easy production tasks yet all his work is produced with the same attention, dedication of time and love.

[Faust]

That coat is baller. Totaly Dark City steez.

[hobo]

I was a bit hesitant to put up pictures from Sartorialoft, but felt it needed to be done. People need to be exposed to the work if Geoffrey is going to see the kind of recognition he so richly deserves. We've touched upon his character and noted his philosophies (lightly grazed at that). But I think we should also touch on the work that he produces too.

Let's kick it off with this.

As Hobo mentioned, GBS does make use of historical patterns. I think its important to remember that there is a great deal of research and development that goes into recreating pieces from the 18th century and maintaining the essence or spirit of that piece as an homage to masters passed....all while updating it with not just the correct fabric selections, but the treatments thereof, to bring it back to the table with new found relevance in our "modern" time and for the future as well.

I'm a sucker for excellent hand work as it provides garments with characteristics that are unique to each piece. And Geoffrey's work has more than the mass majority of other designers out there and it is quality. Hand dyed for calibrated color and hand washed to bring out the supple qualities of a fabric. These are not easy production tasks yet all his work is produced with the same attention, dedication of time and love.

Absolutely. The only thing that I'd like to add at this point, is that it doesn't have to be 18C. We had the most amazing 17C coat in the store (Straight out of Dangerous Liaisons)! Totally authentic pattern but instead of making it out of the velvet and heavy luxurious fabrics that it would have been made in originally, Geoffrey made it from the most wonderful crisp striped linen which he then over-dyed black. The final colour was a dark earthy charcoal green. And the detail… Hand wrapped lace buttons and… well I could bang on forever about that one… Fucking amazing, I tell you!

[DHC]

the coat pictured above is actually 19C. The 18C piece I was referring to is that cashmere piece that you were wearing in Paris this passed winter. Oh, that thing is so gorgeous and comfortable!

[Raw Edge]

Hobo and DHC great posts, I learn something new every time.

What are the fits like on the GBS coats, and GBS in general?
Seems like some of the coats are a very tailored style, while others (and some of the pants etc) fit big/are looser fitting?

[Fuuma]

come on. the seam work is out of control! does anything really need to be said about this coat?

The summer version in grey, lighter cotton fabric will be mine!! Such a nice piece.

[Fuuma]

the coat pictured above is actually 19C. The 18C piece I was referring to is that cashmere piece that you were wearing in Paris this passed winter. Oh, that thing is so gorgeous and comfortable!

It has the raglan, very tight shoulder typical of some 19C coat, very sharp and "quietly" innovative. You wonder what's up with the shape until you notice that skewed proportions compared to 20c shapes.

[deleuze]

There are short and long acrylic/cotton versions of that coat on Yoox now in a couple of colors, $400 or so.

[Faust]

I gotta say, acrylic/cotton mix does not excite me.

[pipcleo]

seems to excite many when the designer is rei k