Geoffrey, Yes! That looks like it!
Geoffrey, Yes! That looks like it!
His company also has an account for those that do the work which is just as great -Originally Posted by Faust
https://www.instagram.com/geoffreybsmallsartoria/
This is my first post on SZ and only comes after spending the last few weeks reading the entirety of this thread. After first coming across GBS in hostem last year, I thought the clothes were great but after reading the full thread and Geoffrey's comments I must say I like the designs even more for the ethos behind them. As a fashion student it is rare to get an insight into a designers work so I would like to thank Geoffrey for his continuing contributions and I will carry on reading to understand the designs and collections more thoroughly. The most recent men's collection is by far my favourite yet and I can't wait to see what future collections bring. Perhaps one day I will be lucky enough to meet GBS in person like many of you have.
thank you... + a few more notes about 'grow deep'
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Thanks so much Faust, Lohikaarme, underdog, and especially everest, for your kind notes.
As the forces of Artificial Intel, automation, robotics, prison and slave labor are now expanding dramatically in the world (see our Facebook posts recently) and being blindly accepted and put into practice by many of our esteemed colleagues and competitors in the designer market today, we are more determined than ever to continue to build a revolutionary working model of a design company that actually believes in the human being, and can succeed amazingly well by doing so.
Our new GBS and GBS Sartoria entries into IG will reinforce this story and help us to reach out to an increasing audience along with the exciting visionary media partners that we are already involved with including this forum and its magazine. At this time, we are able to report that thanks to all of the people who have worked and supported our mission, so far, our AW17 'secrets' men's and 'grow deep' women's collections have reached a new all-time record for order bookings for a single season and the firm is now continuing its ambitious and aggressive hiring and investment in new staff and development to achieve a new all-time record sales, delivery and production level for a single year in 2017.
We feel very strongly that these results lend testament that there is a customer and market for an alternative proposal to the ominous, growing and apocalyptic perfect storm that is being caused, created and implemented by an incompetent and failing ruling class that is so insulated, detached and separated from reality, the nature around them, and their own humanity and sense of community and responsibility to others on this earth--that they are willing to drive our entire species on this planet to suicide far sooner than we can imagine.
And make no doubt about it, they are using fashion as a primary vehicle to achieve these aims... as a deviation, as a smokescreen, or even at best, a very beautifully executed lie made possible by far too many of my extremely talented colleagues in the field who for reasons of money and dependence are collaborating with these types of interests. We continue to ask all of you to think twice about proposals that are coming from or associated with the continuing use of synthetic petrochemical fibres in fabric and especially footwear, the use of exploiting slavery and unethical human production practices in poor developing nations instead of investing in people with a proper wage in all countries at the local level, the new use of AI, 3D printing and robotic factory production to eliminate any real human employment (and our company would argue fervently... creativity) in production of massive amounts of consumer goods at a time when more people in the world than ever in the history of mankind need a productive job to stay alive, and the subversive use of fashion and its growing global interest and audience by these corporations to greenwash, brainwash, politically agitate, or otherwise propagandize the continuation of status quo ongoing-unquestioning-support and funding of a system that is rapidly leading to our own self-destruction.
In addition to the amazing first-in-the-world technology innovations it contained, our most recent collection's name and concept 'grow deep' also served to define our goal of growing a great organization with deep roots and a firm foundation, similar to a great tree, like the thousand year-old tree at Kamakura in Japan. A tree of life and sustainable creation that will be able to withstand, and perhaps, even outlive the storm ahead and those responsible for it-- for a new generation and a new way of life and thinking on this planet.
On that note, with many thanks to all, we provide some new links below on the continuing coverage
of the collection and its spectacular presentation and the people behind it who made it possible...
*Paris show coverage in Japan on fashionsnap...
http://www.fashionsnap.com/collectio...ens/2017-18aw/
*Photography and video by Frederico Guendel now in Spain's Frenezi Magazine edited by Steven Loria...
https://frenezimagazine.com/2017/03/...ashion-week-2/
*Dario Ruggiero's backstage photo coverage edited in Milan by Anca Macavei in Nasty Magazine...
http://www.nastymagazine.com/fashion...week-aw17-pt1/
*And Natalie Eloise's story for Some/Things in Paris is also just posted on our AW17
Women's seasonal collections thread on SZ here...
More coverage coming soon.
with great thanks, respect and appreciation to all,
Geoffrey & the Team
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Funny, Dario Ruggiero is a friend of mine :)
Didn't know he did pics for you Geoffrey B. Small
Dear Rl82,
thanks for your comment... he didn't do the pics for us, he was shooting them for editorial for Nasty Magazine. Glad to know he is a friend of yours, we met him only very briefly backstage after the show, he was very kind and took some great shots for the story which we really appreciate.
Cheers and thank again, Geoffrey & the team
A beautiful image story of the GBS Spring/summer 2017 women's collection in Please Magazine Edition no. 6 is now out in stores and newsstands in Japan. The story entitled "Puzzle of the Times" was shot by Yusuke Shiiki with Matilde Canuti in Paris and edited by Toru Kitahara in Tokyo. After a long career as a leading editor of major Japanese fashion magazines, Please was founded and published by Kitahara as a true hands-on independent design publication and an alternative to the country's growing, omnipresent corporate-controlled fashion media in recent years and is garnering increasing attention and support from GBS, Comme des Garcons and others. Like the GBS men's collection, "Summer Days of Tyrus, Alta, Clementine, Lizzy & Amanda" focuses on early 1900's American baseball clothes and is dedicated to exceptional women baseball players of the period who pioneered the sport for women and features our most advanced extreme handmade technologies and design work to date in collaboration with the very best made in italy fabric and components masters still working in the world today. With many thanks to all, Geoffrey & the team
Fucking hell. I have not often read something that exuded such passion and brilliance! Thank you so much for this! The things he says about sustainiblity and quality and how it is far too often given up for money hit very close to home, this being a topic that I feel very strongly about. I also love how he talks about technologoy replacing humans as I am slowly becoming a bit anti-technology... There is a pretty interesting book on that called 'Homo Deus' by Yuval Noah Harari which I can only recommend!
we believe in the human being, thanks Erich Fromm,"Contemporary Poets"UomoCollezioni
Thanks very much Erich Fromm for taking the time and effort to read about us.
We believe in the human being. And we believe that the concept of what "technology" is, needs to be reviewed a bit. Technology to us does not mean only replacing humans, or only things being done by machines, or what many today view as tech. Far from it. For example, it is a fact that indigenous Americans were far superior technologically to us when it came to living sustainably and ecologically, and had we not killed them off, we would be in far better shape today than we are. So who in the end really has the more advanced techology?
We also view our way of creating clothes, which we define as extreme handmade technology, not only as tech... but indeed, far superior tech, that over time will prove itself to be an amazingly valuable long-term asset that is a direct result of our belief in the superior value of the human being when respected, supported, encouraged and allowed to reach higher and higher levels of excellence and mastery.
And when it comes to designing and making clothes, looking around us at the current state of affairs, we sort of have a little bit of a grudge to bear, and we intend to give those who do not believe in the value of human beings as we do, a real run for the money in the seasons and years ahead as our movement and our following begins to really grow. And we invite you to join us in our effort in whatever way you can.
On that note, our latest men's Paris collection 'secrets' continues its remarkable run of press coverage with "Contempory Poets" a wonderful four-page spread in Uomo Collezioni, the industry's leading fashion runway print publication. With many thanks to everyone who has helped to make it happen, Geoffrey & the team....
Geoffrey B. Small interview in Her magazine
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AS we approach our 100th collection to be presented in Paris this month, the second half of our interview with Sofia Nebiolo and Christopher Victoor now appears in the new issue of Her, the new sister publication of The New Order magazine in Japan (you can see the 1st interview in The New Order earlier up on this thread). The interview continues to explore our long history of showing in Paris from the early days to more recent ones including the spring/summer women's 2017 collection presentation where the interview took place. Both books are edited and created in Japan and published by Noise Media Ltd. in Auckland and distributed by Slam Jam in Europe, Comcode in North America, Plus Contemporary corp in Japan, and Noise Media for the rest of the world. Photographs of the SS2017 women's collection worn by Matilde Canuti were shot by Zelinda Zanichelli and styled by Nobuhiko Akiyoshi in Paris. More press coverage coming up soon, with many thanks to everyone who has helped us to get this far...
(continued from above)
aw17 campaign preview
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A preview of our new Autumn/winter 2017 lookbook and ad campaign shot by Guido Barbagelata in Paris running soon on SZ Magazine, Many of Them Magazine in Spain, Please Magazine in Japan and more as the season progresses. First deliveries for the record-breaking 'secrets' men's and 'grow deep' women's collections are now arriving this month in Paris at l'Eclaireur Boissy, in Tokyo and Osaka at Journal Standard Luxe, and in New York at Atelier. Many others to follow in July and August. On Saturday, we show our 100th collection presented in Paris since 1993, looking forward to seeing many of you there... with many thanks to everyone, Geoffrey & the Team
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IT seems hard to believe that 25 years ago when we brought our first collection of handmade pieces to Paris
in a suitcase with little more than a dream to have a chance, and find a place, to show our work somewhere in the world where the creation of clothing might be recognized by even a few rare individuals as an art form-- but here we are… extremely grateful and pleased to have been able to make our 100th Paris collection presentation to date. With many thanks to everyone who came and shared in this magical event-- dedicated to the art of making clothes by hand and the value of the human being, in a world seeming to be racing madly to forget about both...
live performance video by Jerome Chichet:
with many thanks to...
violin:
Isabelle Madeleine de Miollis
works by O. Rieding, A.Scarlati, F. Kuchler
dance:
Matilde Canuti
models:
Josef, Chris, Alex Nestor, Jakub, Roman, Pascal, Hadrien, Mikhail, Ahkim, Dramane, Klaus, Guillaume, Andrew, Luka, Lucas, Thomas, Amine, Vlas, Bradley, Cedrick Dbn, Anthony Sicot, Guillaume St Michel, Sergei, Omer, Diego Viannello, Brad Sisk, Riccardo Sandano
many thanks to Studio KLRP agency,
space design & art:
Paul Bradley Studios UK
sound & light:
Maurice Giraud
Lumiere & Son Paris
Lionel Csinski / fashion therapy
next show: "come and go"
Women's SS18. Sept.30
for invitation: geoffreyb.small@gmail.com
Dear Geoffrey B. Small Congratulations on your 100th Paris Collection presentation! I have to begin by expressing how touched I was by this performance, you took the meaning expression into clothes in such a poetic way, it truly inspires me to continue persevering and to dream of one day, being as great of an artist and as great as craftsman as you are. This show had so much catharsis, and i felt that even though I was not present , i was one with the clothes, the dancer, the models, the music and the crowd. It gave me a different understanding of how clothing shall be looked at, such sentiment of hope for our beloved love of the art of clothing.
Last edited by negroygris; 06-27-2017 at 04:54 PM.
We hope that people will begin to see beyond the superficial surface of things and understand that there is far more to a design than just the way it looks on the outside.
-GEOFFREY B. SMALL
The instrumental really complimented the image. Brought life and positive vibe ��
GBS "Grow Deep" now in Donna Collezioni magazine
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Thanks so much negroygris and Mojo1998 for your very kind comments, and to everyone else who made it all possible. Our previous show in Paris "Grow Deep" for the women's A/W2017 collection (also very moving and personal in nature), is now covered in the pages of Donna Collezioni, the industry's leading fashion runway print publication. First deliveries of the women's "Grow Deep" collection are now arriving at Journal Standard Luxe in Japan at Omotesando, Ginza and Umeda stores, Atelier in New York, and Darius and Asita Chegini's new Das Chegini store opening this month in Vienna. With many thanks to everyone,
Geoffrey & the team
The new "DAS Chegini" store is quietly building in Vienna on the Hapsburgerstrasse at number 6-8.
A BOLD NEW STORE TO WATCH IN VIENNA
I have always believed that distribution is a fundamental part of a designer's job. Great designers have always paid as much attention to how, where and who represents their collections at retail as they do for any key detail, silhouette or design element in their clothes. Any designer doing less than that and leaving that work, decision and aspect of their image to others is a compromiser and needs to be regarded as a different level of practitioner. Distribution is an art in itself. And to be the best, you must treat it very seriously. So when it comes to stores, we can only work with the best in the world. To ensure the very best experience value and service for our customers, we maintain the strictest distribution standards of any designer firm in the industry. We have to. And over the years, our collections have set a new definition of the best retailers in the world that more and more of our colleagues and competitors are clearly paying attention to more and more.
In our ongoing quest to work with only the most daring, innovative and artistic retail dealers in the world capable of providing that extraordinary experience and level of service that we must insist upon to serve our discerning and valued clientele now and into the future, Darius and Asita Chegini's "DAS Chegini" concept store aims to merge the very best new work in both art & design in a city that is particularly known for both.
With over three decades in the mysteriously beautiful imperial capital of the Hapsburgs at the heart of the legendary Boutique Chegini family business, the couple who had driven the research and creative side of the firm for 30 years, has recently split with the mother Eva and the remaining Boutique Chegini stores located on the superlux Kohlmarkt street. The rift in the family enterprise came about over classic major directional differences in an increasingly challenging market and economy... whether to retract and limit offerings to big established corporate luxury brands only, or to firmly continue to invest in research and present the very best in avant-garde and artisanal design. Darius, Asita and their daughter Sara, chose the latter. With a new and daring total commitment right smack in the center of Vienna incredibly located right around the corner from the Kohlmarkt street and its Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermes flagships, a new potential revolution- in a 400 square meter space on multiple levels is now just opening and being carefully assembled, that merits the attention of not only the coolest and wealthiest residents of Austria, but serious design enthusiasts and collectors at the world level as well.
One of the softest jackets on the planet: the handmade Piacenza pure Alashan cashmere worsted superlux NNJ10
dream jacket is one of only 2 pieces made for the world this season, this one exclusively for DAS Chegini in Vienna
(now arrived), the other is being built for Looq in Zurich (arriving in mid to end September).
Along with a modest but well-edited introductory selection of superb GBS pieces from the Via Spalato workroom's newest Paris collections for men and women, the store also is carrying work by well-known independents including Maurizio Amadei, Guidi, Elena Dawson, Forme d'Expression, Layer-0, Marc LeBihan, Werkstatt Munchen, P.R. Patterson, and Kuboraum. But it is also showing perhaps somewhat lesser-known collections such as the superb luggage and bag work of Pinel et Pinel from Paris as well as Phaedo, Maison Flaneur, Nehera, Both, Y by Giovanni Cavagna, Da Rold Le Cuir Perdu, Alessandra Marchi, and Austrian young designer Manuel Marte- each being presented with a selection and point of view that is clearly based upon a research-buying master's eye with decades of experience.
Pages from our handmade storybook for Das Chegini in Vienna showing the incredible new reversible modified M-51 military parka can be worn 2 ways using all black Lanificio Moessmer's classic tyrolean boiled "lanacotto" mountain wool or Gianni Gobbetti's elegant black and red floral rose print silk made for us in Como Italy. Only 4 of these super-pieces are being made for the entire world this season, 2 of them are now arrived at Das Chegini in Vienna, the other 2 pieces projected to arrive in mid-September at Hostem in London.
The unassuming logo for the new store was created by the superstar artist
Herbert Brandl (2007 Austrian Pavilion artist at the 52nd Art Biennale in Venice).
The couple's extensive network in the city also includes serious art, and most of Austria's greatest living artists, including superstar Herbert Brandl who designed the store's unassuming new logo, and Ronald Kodritsch whose tongue in cheek sculptural works can be found positioned around the stores multiple levels... hinting to utilize the space as a new platform for emerging and cutting-edge artworks in combination with cutting-edge design, that may develop and evolve into one of the world's most special, beautiful and innovative new stores, in one of the most culturally-rich cities in the world… quietly building step-by-step now in Vienna right off the Graben and the Josefbrunner statue on the Hapsburgerstrasse 6-8, tel. +43 15322180
Best wishes,
Geoffrey & the team
Geoffrey, would it be possible to share with us a glimpse of what you have planned for the next "collection" / theme in menswear next year?
"next year" is for next year
Soooo sorry Mojo1990, but it is way too early to discuss this, especially on a forum viewed by so much of the industry now. Besides there are so many really important, exciting pieces and works now going out to the stores and in the press for this season at the moment that it is impossible to even be even thinking about "next year." The autumn winter 2017 'secrets | grow deep' season is shaping up to be a landmark one in our 38-year history in many ways. For example, this wonderful article on our work by the editorial staff at leclaireur.com on our new collection delivery and project for their Boissy d'Anglas store (click on the image) with many thanks to everyone at leclaireur in Paris....
get french version here
or this beautiful image shot Willow Williams in Metal Magazine of the TYJ21special handwoven reversible Tessitura Colombina silk & linen and Como floral satin print silk 1905 reproduction baseball jacket now at Hostem in London. We will write more soon about the phenomenal GBS baseball jacket design series which was also recently shot by superstar Mario Testino for Conde Nast...
Or the amazing new SEC06 long coat in Tessitura Colombina's super-tightly batted all hand-woven alpaca and merino wool--an extreme handmade technology masterpiece in a myriad of ways and one of of only 5 pieces made in the entire world this season, now arriving exclusively for all of Europe and North America at Hostem in London (for Asia- preorder or reserve for September in Hong Kong at Ink and October at Eth0s in Shanghai)...
And this is only the tip of the iceberg for what is arriving now and in the weeks and months ahead for this season at our exclusive authorized limited edition dealers around the world. Besides, in regards to our creative concentration and priorities at the moment, we are only a month away from putting on our women's SS18 collection and introducing the daring concept of live theater/defile performance in Paris, something that has never been done before in the history of the metier. So, "next year's plans and themes" are for next year. The most exciting work for me to post about is the work the incredible people in this amazing company are doing right now, and for that, as always, you really need to go into the stores we are working with and experience them in person....
More soon.
Cheers, Geoffrey
GBS pieces shot by Mario Testino in British Vogue
We have no press agent, we normally avoid publicity and editorial requests, and we have enough to do just keeping up with all of our client demand and orders for our work, and constantly building our human organization, skills, research and extreme hand technologies to stay ahead in the race for innovation and excellence at the Paris avant-garde collections level. As such, we have no press samples, and when media people and stylists ask us to "loan" our Paris prototypes for fashion shoots we always respectfully decline.
But last May, when Katie Dufort, the impeccable Assistant to the Creative Director at British Vogue contacted us for a shoot that was being planned by Mario Testino and Lucinda Chambers (Creative Director at British Vogue) for the September 2017 issue, and we realized the people contacting us were real, and were really serious about the project and pieces from our 'secrets' AW17 Paris collection, we decided take a risk and make an exception. At great expense and risk (we were already in production for AW17 and needed the prototypes for the production samples), we sent our prototypes to Vogue House in London where they were to be taken out into the fields of Cornwall and shot by Mario Testino for what we felt might be a major editorial. Big changes were going down at British Vogue. In April, news hit that Editor in Chief Alexandra Shulman was out, and Edward Enninful, the first black editor-in-chief in the history of Conde Nast, was coming in from W in September. The prototype pieces all came back a week later without too much of a hitch, we were told the shoot well, our clothes were used in it, and we thanked Katie and the Vogue UK staff profusely for not losing or damaging any of the prototypes.
Then a little bit later, the news that more heads were rolling at British Vogue came out, Lucinda Chambers was ousted after many years as the magazine's creative director. A long-time collaborator with Mario Testino, it was Lucinda Chambers who styled the Cornwall shoot and requested our clothes. The ousting was not smooth and Chambers soon penned a controversial article in Vestoj that got industry-wide publicity and created a huge rift between her, Conde Nast, and a lot of the fashion media industry powers-that-be. At Cavarzere, we suddenly felt like there was a very good chance that the editorial might be snuffed, another victim of battle in the ongoing game of fashion thrones. After not hearing from the magazine for several months, I tried to contact Katie Dufort hoping that as Lucinda Chamber's chief assistant, her position was not changed either, and queryied whether the controversy over the leadership of the magazine had affected the publication plans for the editorial. Thankfully she was still there and able to explain to me that although the new Editor in Chief Edward Enninful was starting his post in September, the September issue was already in the can and in effect, would be the last one published under the old regime-- a historic final edition from Alexandra Shulman and Lucinda Chambers... with our work from Cavarzere somehow in it as well, beautifully photographed by Mario Testino. Wow, sometimes you can get lucky. With many thanks and appreciation to everyone we provide a rundown of the coverage below, Cheers Geoffrey & the team
see the video here
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