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Thread: NYT: Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded

  1. #1

    Default NYT: Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded

    PARIS — The avant-garde Belgian designer Martin Margiela has quietly left the fashion house he built — and he will not be replaced at the company, which has been majority owned by the Italian group Diesel since 2002.

    For the rest of the article:

    http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/09/bu....html?_r=1&hpw

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    i guess innovation is a slang word for easy profitability these days.. indeed

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    margiela fragrance by Loreal?? RIP

  4. #4
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Misleading title. (I only nit-pick cause I want to work there, haha).

    What fuck is this about a spa?!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  5. #5

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    The question is whether a dedicated team — at Margiela, 28 creative personnel — could operate without a name designer whose annual compensation to produce six to eight collections would be conservatively estimated at €5 million.
    If I'm interpreting the sentence correctly, Margiela's compensation to design 6-8 collections was €5 million? If we take €5 million, divide it by 7 collections, and convert it into dollars, Margiela's compensation was a little over $1,000,000 per collection? Assuming 2 collections a year, he made over $2,000,000 a year?!

    Or am I not interpreting the sentence correctly and that would be the total compensation for the group of 28 designers?

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    My take on it would be that if they were to hire a new designer, his pay would be ~€5 million, but not that Margiela earned €5 million annually when he was in the house.

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  8. #8

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    From WWD

    Margiela Exits Margiela

    by Miles Socha

    Posted Wednesday December 09, 2009

    PARIS — Fashion’s mystery man is becoming even more mysterious: Belgian designer Martin Margiela is hanging up his scissors, and his lab coat, for good.

    What’s more, the Paris-based fashion house that bears his name confirmed Tuesday that no successor would be named, leaving a team to carry on the legacy of a designer so avant-garde he never showed his face to his fashion-obsessed public.

    “We want to stay avant-garde, and provocative, but without a new creative director,” said Giovanni Pungetti, chief executive officer of Maison Martin Margiela. “It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them.”

    Margiela — who introduced cleft-toed boots, deconstructed fashions and all-white stores to the fashion lexicon — issued no statement. Pungetti declined to comment on the reasons for the designer’s exit, characterizing them as personal.

    According to sources, Margiela has recently poured creative energies into painting and wished to walk away from the fashion business.

    Pungetti described the parting as fully amicable, and stressed that Margiela remains allied with the strategy, as he has since 2002, when Italian industrialist Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave Srl swept in and bought a majority stake in the house.

    Tuesday’s announcement ends speculation about Margiela’s level of design involvement that reached a zenith ahead of his 20th anniversary fashion show in Paris in March, viewed by many as a retirement show. At the time, Pungetti disclosed that Margiela had gradually reduced his day-to-day involvement in the company, working mainly on special projects, such as the “artisanal” collection presented during couture week in Paris, and the house’s first fragrance, under license with beauty giant L’Oréal and due on counters in February.

    On Tuesday, Pungetti explained the company granted Margiela several months, at his request, to reflect on his future.

    During that time, the company explored its options, too, including the possibility of naming a new creative director. Belgians Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann were among those approached.

    “We came to the conclusion that we didn’t want to substitute [Martin], not because he is irreplaceable, but because we are the Maison Martin Margiela,” Pungetti said, seated at a white table at Margiela headquarters with an empty snow globe, an all-white set of Russian dolls and a boot-shaped candle. “He always liked to say to his design team, ‘You are more Margiela than me.’”

    Pungetti said Margiela’s “right hand” for the past 19 years would lead the team, which consists of about 25 people and is continually refreshed “with new talent, but no big names, please.”

    While the latest Margiela show for spring received poor reviews, Pungetti said orders shot up 20 percent, reflecting continued commercial momentum for the firm.

    He held out hope that clarity about Margiela’s exit from the company would encourage critics to “evaluate the collection and not focus on who has designed this.”

    While revenues at Margiela catapulted 50 percent in 2007 to 60 million euros, or $82.2 million at average exchange, as the company expanded its product lines and retail network, sales in 2009 will be flat versus 2008, with the company operating at “near breakeven,” Pungetti said.

    “We think 2010 will be tough, but no tougher than 2009,” he said. “We have good deliveries, and good sell-through.”

    The company will end the year with 17 freestanding stores and 21 shop-in-shops, with boutiques in Italy, France, the U.K. and Los Angeles running well ahead of last year. No openings are planned for 2010; however, growth vectors for the company include its move into home objects and interior design. This week, Margiela will unveil a suite it decorated at Les Sources de Caudalie “vino therapy” spa near Bordeaux, France.

    Pungetti described “very big potential” for the interior design service, noting Margiela is competing for a Paris hotel commission and has fielded requests to do private homes. “The reputation of the Maison as a global design company, not only fashion design, is increasing,” he said.

  9. #9
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I can't wait for the first Margiela magazine ad.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I can't wait for the first Margiela magazine ad.
    Pure white page, maybe?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerry View Post
    Pure white page, maybe?
    That was the first thing that came to my mind. Of course no one would understand that. Maybe the 4 stitches?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    ^ haha it'd be interesing if the ad was all white and the text and graphics were embossed.. or perhaps written in "white" ink– similar to their business cards

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    Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.



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    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Yea, I remember some minimalist Ketel One vodka ads, which I thought were as bad as the swill they tried to sell.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by wire.artist View Post
    I actually tried that once in a magazine for an add, all white page and it worked awfully...you could notice the text of the following page through it....magazines aren't very well printed nowadays...
    How about the ad spans two pages, the front is all white, then the back page has the four stitches?

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinoy View Post
    If I'm interpreting the sentence correctly, Margiela's compensation to design 6-8 collections was €5 million? If we take €5 million, divide it by 7 collections, and convert it into dollars, Margiela's compensation was a little over $1,000,000 per collection? Assuming 2 collections a year, he made over $2,000,000 a year?!

    Or am I not interpreting the sentence correctly and that would be the total compensation for the group of 28 designers?
    I think maybe they considered 0, 1, 4, 10, 14, 11, 22, and mm6 to be the 8 collections? But then there's also 8, 12, and 13, though they're not really "collections". Either way, it's not very well worded. And that aside, who cares how much money Margiela walks away with.

  19. #19

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    the official demise of the the great one...............

    lets see how this brand will survive without its "mind"
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

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