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NYT: Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded

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  • H-R
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 364

    NYT: Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded

    PARIS — The avant-garde Belgian designer Martin Margiela has quietly left the fashion house he built — and he will not be replaced at the company, which has been majority owned by the Italian group Diesel since 2002.

    For the rest of the article:

  • ose
    Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 48

    #2
    i guess innovation is a slang word for easy profitability these days.. indeed

    Comment

    • mononon
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2009
      • 1041

      #3
      margiela fragrance by Loreal?? RIP
      calvinc - "Found this place and omg the people here are so cool and they dress super ultra mega well!"

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Misleading title. (I only nit-pick cause I want to work there, haha).

        What fuck is this about a spa?!
        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • Pinoy
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2006
          • 661

          #5
          The question is whether a dedicated team — at Margiela, 28 creative personnel — could operate without a name designer whose annual compensation to produce six to eight collections would be conservatively estimated at €5 million.
          If I'm interpreting the sentence correctly, Margiela's compensation to design 6-8 collections was €5 million? If we take €5 million, divide it by 7 collections, and convert it into dollars, Margiela's compensation was a little over $1,000,000 per collection? Assuming 2 collections a year, he made over $2,000,000 a year?!

          Or am I not interpreting the sentence correctly and that would be the total compensation for the group of 28 designers?

          Comment

          • Torchiere
            Senior Member
            • May 2009
            • 202

            #6
            My take on it would be that if they were to hire a new designer, his pay would be ~€5 million, but not that Margiela earned €5 million annually when he was in the house.

            Comment

            • Catfood
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2008
              • 485

              #7
              Another article on Margiela in the independent, worth the read:
              Out of sight, not out of mind: Celebrating two decades of Martin Margiela magic

              Comment

              • gerry
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2008
                • 309

                #8
                From WWD

                Margiela Exits Margiela

                by Miles Socha

                Posted Wednesday December 09, 2009

                PARIS — Fashion’s mystery man is becoming even more mysterious: Belgian designer Martin Margiela is hanging up his scissors, and his lab coat, for good.

                What’s more, the Paris-based fashion house that bears his name confirmed Tuesday that no successor would be named, leaving a team to carry on the legacy of a designer so avant-garde he never showed his face to his fashion-obsessed public.

                “We want to stay avant-garde, and provocative, but without a new creative director,” said Giovanni Pungetti, chief executive officer of Maison Martin Margiela. “It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them.”

                Margiela — who introduced cleft-toed boots, deconstructed fashions and all-white stores to the fashion lexicon — issued no statement. Pungetti declined to comment on the reasons for the designer’s exit, characterizing them as personal.

                According to sources, Margiela has recently poured creative energies into painting and wished to walk away from the fashion business.

                Pungetti described the parting as fully amicable, and stressed that Margiela remains allied with the strategy, as he has since 2002, when Italian industrialist Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave Srl swept in and bought a majority stake in the house.

                Tuesday’s announcement ends speculation about Margiela’s level of design involvement that reached a zenith ahead of his 20th anniversary fashion show in Paris in March, viewed by many as a retirement show. At the time, Pungetti disclosed that Margiela had gradually reduced his day-to-day involvement in the company, working mainly on special projects, such as the “artisanal” collection presented during couture week in Paris, and the house’s first fragrance, under license with beauty giant L’Oréal and due on counters in February.

                On Tuesday, Pungetti explained the company granted Margiela several months, at his request, to reflect on his future.

                During that time, the company explored its options, too, including the possibility of naming a new creative director. Belgians Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann were among those approached.

                “We came to the conclusion that we didn’t want to substitute [Martin], not because he is irreplaceable, but because we are the Maison Martin Margiela,” Pungetti said, seated at a white table at Margiela headquarters with an empty snow globe, an all-white set of Russian dolls and a boot-shaped candle. “He always liked to say to his design team, ‘You are more Margiela than me.’”

                Pungetti said Margiela’s “right hand” for the past 19 years would lead the team, which consists of about 25 people and is continually refreshed “with new talent, but no big names, please.”

                While the latest Margiela show for spring received poor reviews, Pungetti said orders shot up 20 percent, reflecting continued commercial momentum for the firm.

                He held out hope that clarity about Margiela’s exit from the company would encourage critics to “evaluate the collection and not focus on who has designed this.”

                While revenues at Margiela catapulted 50 percent in 2007 to 60 million euros, or $82.2 million at average exchange, as the company expanded its product lines and retail network, sales in 2009 will be flat versus 2008, with the company operating at “near breakeven,” Pungetti said.

                “We think 2010 will be tough, but no tougher than 2009,” he said. “We have good deliveries, and good sell-through.”

                The company will end the year with 17 freestanding stores and 21 shop-in-shops, with boutiques in Italy, France, the U.K. and Los Angeles running well ahead of last year. No openings are planned for 2010; however, growth vectors for the company include its move into home objects and interior design. This week, Margiela will unveil a suite it decorated at Les Sources de Caudalie “vino therapy” spa near Bordeaux, France.

                Pungetti described “very big potential” for the interior design service, noting Margiela is competing for a Paris hotel commission and has fielded requests to do private homes. “The reputation of the Maison as a global design company, not only fashion design, is increasing,” he said.

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #9
                  I can't wait for the first Margiela magazine ad.
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • gerry
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 309

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Faust View Post
                    I can't wait for the first Margiela magazine ad.
                    Pure white page, maybe?

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Originally posted by gerry View Post
                      Pure white page, maybe?
                      That was the first thing that came to my mind. Of course no one would understand that. Maybe the 4 stitches?
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • Pinoy
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2006
                        • 661

                        #12
                        ^ haha it'd be interesing if the ad was all white and the text and graphics were embossed.. or perhaps written in "white" ink– similar to their business cards

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          #13
                          Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • mononon
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2009
                            • 1041

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Faust View Post
                            Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.
                            calvinc - "Found this place and omg the people here are so cool and they dress super ultra mega well!"

                            Comment

                            • swami
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2008
                              • 809

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Faust View Post
                              Actually, it'd be cool if they put a Diesel logo on it.


                              Comment

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