Studio Visit: Alexandre Plokhov

Yesterday I visited Alexandre Plokhov’s studio in New York’s Flatiron district to check out his Fall/Winter 2013 collection. Plokhov was in a pretty serene mood despite his mind-boggling schedule (he was hopping on the plane the same afternoon to go to Premiere Vision in Paris.).

The collection reflected Plokhov’s continuous refinement of his style. In a way Plokhov presented a full wardrobe, from the most casual to the most sophisticated looks – there was even his version of a tuxedo (perhaps for our fist black tie party?).

But I’ll start with leathers, naturally, which were excellent – substantial and done in that “not-exactly-black” tone that made sense for someone whose wardrobe looks like a black hole. There was a hooded, zippered shearling as well. The coats, black and in checkered patterns, were done in wool. There was also a neat jacket made of a knit layers that was bonded to another layer of fabric making it substantial and rigid enough as an outerwear material. Leather pants, check. Hoodies and drop crotch, check.

Plokhov, for whom tailoring is second (or first?) nature, was most excited as we went over the suiting, which was all unstructured and done in the mixes of wool and silk, or wool, silk, and rayon. These fabric combinations allowed for refined deconstruction – a tailoring oxymoron for sure, but there it was in full glory.

The sleeper hit of the collection was the absolutely fantastic footwear – neat but hard. “I prefer the wearer to do the distressing,” said Plokhov as I examined the tall calfskin boots whose smooth surface was neither precious nor beat up. Me too.