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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37849

    Ratings Systems Trickle Into Luxury Websites

    A very interesting article from WSJ. Thoughts?

    Original here.

    Luxe Lowdown: Tony Sites Begin to Invite Buyer Reviews
    By RACHEL DODES



    More than a decade after book and electronics retailers embraced online customer reviews, the most elite stores in the U.S. are opening their websites—and the brands they sell—to the slings and arrows of public opinion.
    At the end of the month, Saks.com, the online arm of Saks Fifth Avenue, will unveil a five-star review system where customers can express their opinions on products ranging from $1,700 Jimmy Choo bags to $7 Kiehl's lip balm. Macy's Inc.'s Bloomingdale's division and Neiman Marcus added their own versions of reviews recently, following the lead of Nordstrom, which began offering them last fall.
    The changes are being driven by the need to beef up online sales, and a realization among luxury retailers that customers want the ability to take shopping advice from their peers.



    "The customer wants a more objective voice saying, 'I own this, and these are the things you need to know about it,"' said Denise Incandela, president of Saks Inc.'s Saks Direct, who expects the feature to lower the company's returns rate and increase "conversion," the percentage of browsers who actually buy.
    For fashion houses accustomed to dictating their own vision to consumers, reviews are generating mixed reviews.
    Designer Carmen Marc Valvo says "a dress is not an electronic device like an iPad that is...suitable for a consumer-reports style rating. Style is a very subjective matter."


    When Bud Konheim, chief executive of the brand Nicole Miller, first saw a 3-star review of a $465 dress on Nordstrom.com that criticized the dress for being "hot and uncomfortable," he was furious. "At first, I thought, 'Let's go find and kill that woman,"' he said. But as he thought about what the customer was saying, he had a change of heart. The commentator "was tapping into something we are well aware of: Our clothes do not fit everybody universally."
    The clashes are a result of the luxury business's late appearance at the e-commerce party, one area that continues to see fast growth in a still-sluggish retail industry. While the National Retail Federation expects retail sales to grow by 2.3% this holiday season, nearly two-thirds of retailers are expecting online holiday sales to rise by at least 15%, according to a new study by the NRF.



    Product reviews have been shown in surveys to boost loyalty and sales with online customers who can't see or touch the merchandise. According to the E-tailing Group, 71% of online shoppers said their choices are most influenced by customer reviews, followed by discussion forums. Retailers also have discovered that reviews tend to be overwhelmingly positive, averaging 4.3 out of 5, according to Bazaarvoice Inc., which provides review software for 1,000 retailers, including Saks and Nordstrom.


    "We have proven that it is safe," said Brett Hurt, chief executive of BazaarVoice, which now counts 25 luxury brands among its clients, compared with just one a year ago.


    Such findings are sinking in only slowly. High-end retailing, known for product innovation and customer service, has ironically been the last to adopt technologies that are de rigeur elsewhere in the retail world. Designer label Marc Jacobs just added e-commerce to its site last month. Chanel doesn't sell anything but cosmetics on Chanel.com.


    Luxury brands have long regarded reviews and other social shopping features with trepidation. Midtier department store Macy's has had reviews on its site since 2006, but its more luxurious sister, Bloomingdale's, added reviews only in May.


    "The notion of having a user saying that Chanel No. 5 smells like Brooklyn is so scary that [luxury brands] were literally paralyzed," said Scott Galloway, founder of L2, a think tank that specializes in prestige brands. A Chanel spokeswoman said, "We won't comment on this topic."


    Some luxury retailers are reluctant to share the role of fashion arbiter with customers. Net-a-Porter.com gives its customers a way to participate in conversations via its Fashion Fix social hub—with blog posts, videos and live Facebook and Twitter feeds—but without overriding the company's status as a fashion authority, according to CEO Natalie Massenet. "We view ourselves as editors on behalf of a global customer base, and we are expressing our own opinions," she said.


    Neiman Marcus said it decided against offering reviews to all of its shoppers, because "we'd like to keep the site uncluttered," said Gerald Barnes, president of Neiman Marcus Direct.
    Yet for the past three months, Neiman Marcus has been allowing an elite group of top customers, known as "Insiders," to review best-selling products. Most of their reviews are effusive: A $195 Michael Kors watch "is versatile and artistic," an insider using the handle "Neimaniac" wrote.


    Nordstrom was the first high-end department store to implement customer reviews, quietly adding the feature to its site last fall. To date, Nordstrom.com has received about 140,000 reviews, which have enabled executives to respond more quickly to fit and quality issues, said Jamie Nordstrom, president of Nordstrom Direct.
    One shopper gave just one star to a pair of $795 Burberry riding boots. "I was really disappointed with these....They looked cute online but were way too big." Mr. Nordstrom said the company will relay the customer critique back to Burberry to see if there's a manufacturing issue.


    A Burberry spokeswoman said the company is open to "both positive and negative" feedback from customers and actively participates in conversations about the brand on Twitter and Facebook.
    Mr. Konheim of Nicole Miller acknowledges that reviews are inevitable. "Are reviews good, bad, or irrelevant? All of it," he said. "We need to learn how to navigate this new business landscape."





    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • ironman
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 829

    #2
    regarding the part you highlighted Faust, discussion forums such as SZ definitely have an influence over purchases. with small questions, yes/no, recent purchases, etc., we are given honest reviews by other members of items not all of us have the benefit of seeing in person.

    many concerns such as fit/sizing, feel, quality issues, and so on are touched upon by our members, helping others come to a decision

    i feel that online reviews on webstores should be taken with a grain of salt. you often do not get the same depth and detail that you would here, as seen by the quoted reviews in the article:

    a dress is too "hot and uncomfortable." we don't know what weather she wore it in, or if it was tight and an unbreathable fabric.
    boots that "looked cute online but were way too big." we don't know if she simply got the wrong size or she means the leg opening of the shaft is ridiculously wide

    this is akin to your resentment for posts in WAYWT that do not explain the reasoning behind opinions on outfits

    as for the designer saying "Style is a very subjective matter," she is correct, but i feel that many of us look to reviews not for style tips but rather other issues noted above such as sizing and manufacturing quality

    the stores are probably thinking such unreasonable poor reviews from some people will deter potential customers, but in my opinion it doesn't hurt to have them. the consumer should be able to distinguish between useful and useless reviews

    Comment

    • jogu
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2009
      • 1601

      #3
      ^ agree with alot of that . when i read reviews on a stores site i always read them cautiously cos of shit like "looked cute online but were way too big." maybe its true the boots fit bigger than tts but thats a lame ass reason to give it 1 star . just exchange them for a smaller size bitch . for reviewers like that i can see why some companies are hesitant to let people post reviews but i also dislike only letting certain people submit reviews like "insiders" . i think customers like that are more likely to be fanboys and just give a positive review of somethin from that store just cos they love that store . however on places like discussion forums i take reviews more seriously cos people know their shit and care about whatever the topic is .
      on some shops websites i also noticed that certain reviews ill submit never get posted , specially if its a negative review of a product .

      Comment

      • Avantster
        ¤¤¤
        • Sep 2006
        • 1983

        #4
        Online reviews have been around for a while and the emergence of blog platforms for reviews and online shopping platforms make them easy to implement. With the increasing prevalence of online shopping for fashion it seems like a natural progression. I've actually toyed with the idea of making a review site that'd be relevant for SZ but don't think it'd be worthwhile..
        let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

        Comment

        • sshum88
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2007
          • 531

          #5
          As the previous poster mentioned...review sites for all sorts of products & services have been around for quite some time now. With reviews being so subjective and in some cases biased (for or against the product/service), the reader really needs to take everything with a 'grain of salt'.

          What's changed is the need for some retailers to find a different sales channel other than the traditional bricks and mortar.

          "The changes are being driven by the need to beef up online sales, and a realization among luxury retailers that customers want the ability to take shopping advice from their peers."

          But it's not as easy as it sounds. One retailer that I know decided to go onlineand went the route of tying their inventory system live to the website.The customer will know whether or not the item is in stock before purchasing unlike many other sites that you or I have visited where you don't know until they try to pack your order.

          The reviews are just just another tactic/aid to help in the decision making process. I can't imagine the regular person who shops at Chanel writing up a review though due to what I think is the profile of the typical consumer who shops at a Chanel.
          Originally posted by eat me
          If you can't see the work past the fucking taped seams , cold dye wash or raw hems - perhaps you shouldn't really be looking at all.

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37849

            #6
            I think for a younger generation the web is the way go to in any shape or form. Just look at those youtube shopping reviews. Granted, they are bimbolicious, but still very successful. There are plenty of people in the periphery with a lot of money and they want luxury and cool as much as the next person.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • kunk75
              Banned
              • May 2008
              • 3364

              #7
              I would fear that the average user doesn't know enough about a site's business goals and objectives to provide an informed review/opinion. I also think amenability to both positive and negative comments is important, especially in social. It hasn't killed the mag industry, which is a point I often bring up to clients cvoncerned with feedback.

              Comment

              • eat me
                Senior Member
                • May 2009
                • 648

                #8
                Interesting subject. I love rating and peer reviews on websites with electronics, grooming, books etc. But fashion, I don't know if it's necessary. With fashion it's not about what can it do or how (electronics), how effective something is (some scrub) or how interesting it gets (books). It's often an immediate reaction - you immediately know if you like it, and that's why you buy it.

                I guess companies would do a favour to themselves and their customers if they would moderate reviews and ratings and explicitly state that they want people to comment only on quality/manufacturing issues, not their personal taste or that they think it's "arty and versatile".

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37849

                  #9
                  It's true for some aspects of it, like different body types and subjective tastes. Certainly the negative comments WSJ gave as examples are, shall we say, retarded. But, I think what will come into play is quality of construction and fabrics and longevity. This may keep some designers honest.
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

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