PDA

View Full Version : Yang Li



Faust
07-11-2012, 07:16 AM
During my trip to Paris I had a chance to check out some clothes by the young Chinese-born, Australia raised, designer Yang Li. Li cut his teeth assisting at Raf Simons and Gareth Pugh and works out of London. I liked the clothes a lot, especially the women's - not to make instant comparisons, but they seemed like a beautiful mix of Yohji Yamamoto and older Raf Simons. The quality of fabrics and construction seemed really top notch!

The photos below are courtesy of Yang Li's website

http://www.yangli.eu

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/001_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/004_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/007_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/008_1.jpg

Faust
07-11-2012, 07:18 AM
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/009_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/010_1.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/011_1.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/015_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/016_1.jpg

Faust
07-11-2012, 07:20 AM
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/019_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/020_1.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/022_1.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/026_1.jpg

Faust
07-11-2012, 07:21 AM
http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/031_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/032_1.jpg

http://www.yangli.eu/aw1213/collection/034_1.jpg

Ivwri
07-12-2012, 10:27 AM
Got curious about Yang Li after I saw some of their stuff on LN-CC. The women's clothes are defintiely the highlight here for me as well. Love the large pockets and volume and drape of the trousers and longer skirts.

The laser cutting and just general precision/cleanliness of his designs makes me think of a lot of minimalists, which I guess makes sense considering he even went to work with Raf.

Here's an interview from dazed-digital with him about 2 and a half years ago - http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/1097/1/yang-li-london-uk

teeteet
07-12-2012, 04:03 PM
Thanks for the link! Was curious when I saw it on LN-CC, especially the derby shoes. Seems like a bright young man who carries himself well, however not feeling the part where he is reluctant to wear his own creations. If you can't sell it to yourself, how do you sell to others??

rider
12-06-2012, 11:28 AM
a nod to the emerging talent, Yang Li in BOF


The Spotlight | Yang Li (http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/12/the-spotlight-yang-li.html)
Yang Li Spring/Summer 2013 |

LONDON, United Kingdom — This month, the Spotlight turns to Yang Li (http://www.yangli.eu), a 24-year-old Central Saint Martins dropout and former Raf Simons intern, whose laser-sharp, monastically clean aesthetic is, surprisingly, the product of a range of reference points.
“I get angry at school because they say: don’t look at other designers, you can only draw with your ideas,” says the London-based Li, who, instead, likens design to being a DJ, sampling and remixing a variety of source material to make a track. But make no mistake. Blending classic tailoring and architectural silhouettes with a healthy dose of punk, Li is creating a look that’s very much his own.
Though born in Beijing, Li grew up in the sleepy city of Perth in Western Australia, where basketball and skateboarding — which still influence his work today — served as his primary introduction to style. “Both of these activities require an expressive sense of dress,” says Li.
It was work of Helmut Lang and Raf Simons, however, that first turned him onto the possibility of becoming a designer. And like his fashion icons, Li is less interested in “re-inventing” a product than “what I’m saying with it.” Indeed, many of Li’s silhouettes are familiar — full A-line skirts for women and double breasted military coats for men — but the designer makes restrained use of edgy details like raw edges, tab closures and side slits to create a quiet sense of “roughness.”
And while many of his fabrics, including double face wool and top-grain leather, are rich, the way he subtracts unnecessary seams from his pieces creates a strong and distinctly modern effect. “Luxury is not about giving everything. It’s about knowing what to give.”
In his third season, Li has already attracted a growing tribe of fashion followers, as well as a list of highly influential stockists, including 10 Corso Como, L’Eclaireur, Dover Street Market and LN-CC. “I think it’s really fresh to have a young designer with such a minimal and mature collection and it really appeals to me as a brand,” says John Skelton, creative director of LN-CC, who was one of the first to buy Li’s work. “All of the references seem to come from the right places from my perspective. It seems to be a modern update of brands such as Yohji Yamamoto, Prada and Jil Sander, which are all very close to my heart. In fact, Yang Li is probably the most relevant young brand in the world to me personally at the moment.”
As for expansion, the designer is taking a measured approach. “I’m not in a rush,” says Li, who lives in London, but has decided to show in Paris. In London, designers grow too fast, he says, while Paris, though harder to crack, he finds more conducive to his patient approach. “I’d rather build one brick solidly at a time to build a church where it’s a ritual for people to go than build a pop-up which is popular for a couple of seasons.”

rider
12-06-2012, 11:31 AM
and a memorable image taken by Jeff Elstone of model Christina Kruse wearing a Yang Li coat for Stylezeitgeist, this is encroaching perfection.

cowsareforeating
12-06-2012, 12:55 PM
This:
"but the designer makes restrained use of edgy details like raw edges, tab closures and side slits to create a quiet sense of “roughness.”

does quite a disservice to the above images...

and he has me liking the funky f-2 pockets

#ruin
12-06-2012, 01:48 PM
Would've had the current season double face bomber and a few of his other pieces if the sleeves just weren't so short [wall]. im taller and have longer arms than the ln-cc model, fit's so nicely in the body but sleeves are 3/4 length on me [thumbdown]. the wool used on it was some of the most luxurious i've ever felt and the construction was top notch, if anyone's considering purchasing any of his pieces then i assure that you won't be dissapointed.

Faust
12-07-2012, 08:17 AM
An article from today's Business of Fashion on Yang Li (http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/12/the-spotlight-yang-li.html)

kucejoe
12-20-2012, 04:59 PM
While I haven't had a chance to see / handle any pieces in person, everyone I've spoken to who has / owns some has been impressed.

The only thing is, it seems to me, that the menswear cuts are getting more conservative by the season. Some of the earlier bomber jackets and shirts have this really interesting shape due to a combination of the cut and the double faced fabric. The womenswear looks great though.

Below are some select images from the SS13 campaign with more HERE (http://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/):

http://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/005.jpghttp://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/006.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/017.jpghttp://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/010.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/022.jpghttp://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/018.jpg
http://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/037.jpghttp://www.yangli.eu/ss2013/collection/020.jpg

Alseal
12-21-2012, 06:47 AM
The style of them shooting the campaign is quite fresh, distinguished from all those dark dirty scene. Maybe just because Yang LI is such clean concept to start with.

dantebykiko
12-25-2012, 11:11 AM
fresh? reminds me of this:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/43118652" width="500" height="375" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/43118652">Y's Portrait 2000 by Paris Modes with Marie-Christiane Marek</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/ysjournal">Y&#039;s</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

i don't understand the brand at all. copying lookbook styles eg. celine and yohji y's 2000. using obvious shapes and details as yohji and raf as stated before - "mix of Yohji Yamamoto and older Raf Simons". using the same mills as jil sander. what is the purpose of this brand? what he offers better than the brands he obviously look for "inspiration".

michael_kard
12-25-2012, 02:28 PM
I find Yang Li a most refreshing brand. His designs remind me late 90's/early 00's Raf, HL and Hedi which is great. I'm particularly intrigued by his trousers' cuts and more tailored garments, and it's great to hear that the quality is good. The quality of renown tailoring brands such Raf or Prada is absolute shit these days, and overall I feel like quality of construction is greatly diminishing across the fashion spectrum.

Alseal
12-25-2012, 06:50 PM
Thx for the video, good reference.
Well, if you put Yangli's work in a much greater context, then we have to admit that nothing is new anymore, everything has been done already.
what i meant by "fresh" earlier, was just comparing to the so-called gothic, dark, obscure style which prevailed among most of members in this forum

fresh? reminds me of this:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/43118652" width="500" height="375" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/43118652">Y's Portrait 2000 by Paris Modes with Marie-Christiane Marek</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/ysjournal">Y's</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

i don't understand the brand at all. copying lookbook styles eg. celine and yohji y's 2000. using obvious shapes and details as yohji and raf as stated before - "mix of Yohji Yamamoto and older Raf Simons". using the same mills as jil sander. what is the purpose of this brand? what he offers better than the brands he obviously look for "inspiration".

#ruin
01-04-2013, 05:57 AM
fresh? reminds me of this:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/43118652" width="500" height="375" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/43118652">Y's Portrait 2000 by Paris Modes with Marie-Christiane Marek</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/ysjournal">Y's</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

i don't understand the brand at all. copying lookbook styles eg. celine and yohji y's 2000. using obvious shapes and details as yohji and raf as stated before - "mix of Yohji Yamamoto and older Raf Simons". using the same mills as jil sander. what is the purpose of this brand? what he offers better than the brands he obviously look for "inspiration".

well duh, we're dealing with minimalism here. whilst there doesn't seem to be much disparity at first glance, the devil is in the details.

ended up ordering the crewneck and MA-1 bomber from LN-CC anyway, with the 20%extra off it would've been rude not to. just going to go with the shorter sleeve length and make it "my thing".

dantebykiko
01-04-2013, 08:00 PM
its very thin line between minimalism and laziness. i've seen better ma-1s in cos.

#ruin
01-05-2013, 12:16 PM
its very thin line between minimalism and laziness. i've seen better ma-1s in cos.

look is subjective so that's perfectly understandable.

in terms of construction & quality you won't handle anything remotely close in that store though.

PaintedBlack_7
01-18-2013, 04:50 AM
anyone else see the menswear as a c level fashion student's tribute to raf simons menswear?

down to the slightly cheaper materials and twisted disfunctutional raf esque features

Staton Viguier
01-18-2013, 05:34 AM
anyone else see the menswear as a c level fashion student tribute to raf simons menswear?

down to the slightly cheaper materials and twisted disfunctutional raf esque features

what does an institutions arbitrary standard have to do with anything?

Ahimsa
03-18-2015, 02:41 PM
On Saturday SZ co-hosted an event for the tour of Yang Li and Genesis P-Orridge with Atelier at White Box in New York.

(click on image to view full coverage)

http://www.sz-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/a6-600x400.jpg (http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2015/03/yang-li-and-genesis-p-orridge-presented-by-atelier/)

BlacknWhite
06-28-2015, 07:03 AM
He's showing his first full men's collection today. Looking forward to it[thumbup]

Faust
06-28-2015, 10:11 AM
Showing as it's in a showroom. Just came back from it.

morsto
06-28-2015, 02:41 PM
I'd like to hear what you thought of it, Faust. I've been liking his clothes the past seasons... I think the fabrics and quality of his clothes are among the best for the "non-artisanal" designers right now.

BlacknWhite
06-28-2015, 11:06 PM
Showing as it's in a showroom. Just came back from it.

Yup. Didn't expect him to go all out with a budget for a runway. There's so little coverage of it, I'm hoping for more in a few days.

trentk
06-29-2015, 02:01 AM
Very curious to see this mens collection, the usage of greyish/bluish celadon in his most recent womens collection was divine. (See the pics on his website though, not the ones on eg nowfashion).
Not the same shade, but just to help people see the beauty of the celadon family of tones:
http://41.media.tumblr.com/79d0cec017c50b18c81d723b5527e22d/tumblr_mw8u003VlS1sxrkbuo1_500.jpg

BlacknWhite
07-03-2015, 07:51 AM
There's almost nothing about the showroom, online, other than photos of some items for preorder from Cruvoir. I was expecting more coverage from other sites.

:(

pita bread
07-03-2015, 04:19 PM
SS16 men's lookbook is now online:

http://yangli.eu/assets/pdf/YANG_LI_SS16.pdf

Really killer collection IMO. Anyone know what the newspaper / magazine clippings are about?

BlacknWhite
07-04-2015, 02:29 AM
^[thumbup]

Did not expect it to be up on his site so quickly, if ever. That collarless coat, and oversized black t-shirt is nice.

Faust
09-21-2017, 03:42 PM
Yang Li is going to have a concert by Michael Gira in lieu of a fashion show next week. BADASS. Last time it was Blixa Bargeld.

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-bites/yang-li-to-put-music-obsession-centre-stage-at-paris-fashion-week-show

Ahimsa
11-03-2017, 03:11 PM
YANG LI AND SAMIZDAT SAMPLE SALE

https://www.sz-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Yang_Li_Samizdat_Sample_Sale_London.jpg (https://www.sz-mag.com/news/2017/11/yang-li-samizdat-sample-sale/)

CAD
11-04-2017, 02:49 AM
anybody know about the price range about this archive sale?

Thanks guys.

vah
11-06-2017, 04:29 AM
Last one I went to a couple years ago it was between 50-80% off if I remember correctly.

Ahimsa
04-18-2018, 09:24 AM
YANG LI/VE HUMAN MAS/CHINE AT LEISURE CENTER IN VANCOUVER

https://www.sz-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/YANG-LI-VE-HUMAN-MAS-CHINE-AT-LEISURE-CENTER-IN-VANCOUVER_2018_StyleZeitgeist-4-1.jpg (https://www.sz-mag.com/news/2018/04/yang-live-human-maschine-leisure-center-vancouver/)

Nickefuge
04-18-2018, 09:41 AM
It’s "Einstürzende Neubauten" or "Einstuerzende Neubauten". :)

fezmoneyyy
05-15-2018, 11:26 PM
one of my favorites honestly

Ahimsa
09-03-2018, 07:50 AM
GENESIS P-ORRIDGE AND YANG LI IN NEW YORK

https://www.sz-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/GENESIS-P-ORRIDGE-AND-YANG-LI-IN-NEW-YORK_2018_StyleZeitgeist-1.jpg (https://www.sz-mag.com/news/2018/09/genesis-p-orridge-and-yang-li-in-new-york/)

Ahimsa
09-11-2018, 01:14 PM
GENESIS P-ORRIDGE AND YANG LI – NEW YORK

https://www.sz-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Genesis-P-Orridge-and-Yang-Li-New-York_2018_StyleZeitgeist-3.jpg (https://www.sz-mag.com/news/2018/09/genesis-p-orridge-and-yang-li-new-york/)

Faust
09-14-2018, 09:09 PM
How was it, Ahimsa? Sorry I missed it.

Ahimsa
09-17-2018, 11:27 AM
How was it, Ahimsa? Sorry I missed it.

Small, intimate, mostly fans and friends and no college kids. Exactly your kind of party.

Nickefuge
06-27-2019, 03:50 AM
Does anyone have good connections to Yang Li?
A friend of mine and I are preparing an exhibition about privacy in the digital age and his voyeurism-themed SAMIZDAT SS20 collection plays right into that theme, so we’d like to talk to him about it.

I’d be grateful for any info at all. :)

Faust
07-02-2019, 07:56 AM
Does anyone have good connections to Yang Li?
A friend of mine and I are preparing an exhibition about privacy in the digital age and his voyeurism-themed SAMIZDAT SS20 collection plays right into that theme, so we’d like to talk to him about it.

I’d be grateful for any info at all. :)

Shoot me a PM with all the details. Or message me on FB if we are friends.

mmsix
11-20-2019, 04:04 PM
I did an interview with Yang after his latest show in Paris.
On the bench in front of his showroom we talked about the influence of skateboarding, studying at Central Saint Martins, dropping out, being an intern at Raf Simons, and of course music.

If you're interested, you can listen to our conversation here:
https://thewastedhour.com/YangLiPodcast.php

Like mentioned there, thank you StyleZeitGeist for introducing me to the world of Yang Li back then (when I didn't even have an account).