Its about time we have discussions on this topic. Personally I think
we are now entering a new era of menswear... more elegant perhaps?
After
observing the progression of menswear in the last decade(through
photos), One can gradually see the slimming of the general silhouette.
After
Hedi Slimane's peak at Dior(commerically) circa Doherty, I think the
slim/rakish look is getting more and more mainstream, proof? roberto cavalli does glam rock slimane style..just take a peek at his recent fw 08 show!
Even
here in sydney, people are also catching up..designers who casted buff
tanned men last season, cast slimmer and more rakish youths. And Ive
also noticed the rather heaavy influence of Dior homme, Raf simons,
Cloak ,Ann Demeulemeester and Rick owens in several up and coming
labels.
Where is this going? What will be next? Back to Superhero Muscle Men?
Being a straight thinking male i dont think there will ever be 'mens haute couture' although I certainly see more business for bespoke tailors.
BUT! Are we going to see more experimentation with silhouette? and the general structure of male garments?
I think the answer for that has a lot to do with the attitude of the modern man and his BUYING tendancies.
Whether he wears clothes for himeself or to fit in with the current trends.- this factor obviously depends on his geographical location.
This is My list of innovative designers to watch:
Carol Christian Poell (although not too daring in silhouette, carol does some intense work w/fabrics, construction etc)
Bernhard
Willhelm ( This guy is actually experimenting with volume and print,,,
which is somewhat do-able compared to his counterparts eg.Marjan
Pejoski- whos menswear for gender confused men doesnt seem to do
justice to his skill, although i must say I have seen some fantastic
pieces from him.)
Aitor Throup - After seeing his graduation collection, I must say i was spellbound. I cant wait to see more stuff.
Rick Owens - God know what kind of alien goths we are going to be exposed to, Rick seems to come up with fantastic jackets.
Raf Simons - Raf has been rather stagnant for the last 2 seasons aside from his shorts in ss07. i HOPE to see more.
Julius-
I dont need to say much about this label...this forum will speak for
itself.
The IFFY's
Hedi Slimane?
- Am I still waiting for him to get back to his Luster Era
form..or was luster the brainchild of NATaralis? slimane is 20/80
Ann
Demeulemeester - This depends on Anns design team i suppose..or the
person in charge of menswear...Im sure ann doesnt design it herself..It
is definitely supervised..I would be surprised if Ann has been doing it
so far.. Although i love her clothes, i think she plays it safe.
Chalayan--
why do I always seem to expect stuff from this guy?... even after he
said that he doesnt like the idea of men wearind designer
garments.there is little hope
Margiela-- Some nice stuff
but...ver very subtle..I would love to see osmething daring from his
maison... daring yet doable..not like the vest made out of playing
cards(rofl).
Carpe Diem -- Linea is gone.. Sartoria/Anatomica was
scrapped... and maurizio stopped designing... meh..a lot of the stuff
on the rack seems very ordinary...and there is nothing innovative about
those washed leather shirts...although the treatments are cool.
I am sure there are several other talented designers out there...Id like to know more.
so please people get talking!!
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