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Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury

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  • aruva
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 171

    Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



    For the first time, I am seeing them carrying this line..




    http://eluxury.com/estore/index.jsp

  • desultory
    Member
    • Aug 2007
    • 92

    #2
    Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury

    It's even available at Downtown Duty Free - must be the Deisel effect. So much for the white Doctor's coats at the lab - anything can be bought. That transaction was probably the fashion crime of this decade.

    Comment

    • Orochi
      Member
      • Sep 2007
      • 92

      #3
      Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



      The amazing thing about Margiela is that he's managed to maintain that cultish allure of the label, while being one of the most blatant, text-book examples of the term "sell out".




      I don't feel one way or another about this since I was never a fan of his clothes to begin with, but it's interesting to hear what his avid fans around here think about the increasingly commercial nature of his label.

      Comment

      • desultory
        Member
        • Aug 2007
        • 92

        #4
        Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury

        Thanks, this is what one freaky fan thinks...the 90s was Margiela's decade, followed by Carpe Diem bleeding into the Noughties. But Margiela now is an exponential echo of an echo, and Carpe Diem is no more, but at least CDiem has exploded into singular excitements, a testament to Altieri's ultimate intellectual collective: absolutely every one of the offshoots including his own has something fresh to offer and is accelerating. By contrast, what intellectual or stylistic freshness has the Maison to offer? Where is there left to grow but in selling basic V-necks in airport terminals in Asia? Sorry, Deisel will sell it to every two-bit dime store on the map and call it your golden crap. In the vacuum created by all this decaying/exploding/defficating, Carol Christian Poell has been spied for what he is and perhaps always has been - (does anyone remember the white zip-up funeral body bag of the late 90s?) - he's a twisted, gutsy Maestro who may indeed end up owning the heap in the 2000s. It's interesting to watch this history unfold, a kind of passing-on of the keys to the kingdom. And it's always moving, changing...who knows, maybe Gaultier's next? Life's a long/short river.

        Comment

        • mattjames
          Member
          • Mar 2007
          • 72

          #5
          Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



          How has Margiela sold out? Simply by making his clothes available outside of the small, obscure boutiques?



          It was interesting to see that eluxury has use of his 'show' photos on their site, and zoomable with different angles.

          Comment

          • lowrey
            ventiundici
            • Dec 2006
            • 8383

            #6
            Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury




            I guess this is the 4th topic wheremargiela@eluxury ismentioned now..




            I don't really get the selling out either?

            "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

            STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

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            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



              I also don't get the selling out part. I agree that in general Margiela has not been as creative as he was in the 90's, but to demand genius all the time is either obnoxious or dishonest. Look at Rei Kawakubo - she's a shade of what she used to be, and people still laud her as a genius. Same with Hussein Chalayan, who still sparkles here and there with an amazing show, but fails to deliver in stores. Look at Plokhov of Cloak, who hasn't matched FW04, but is still loved.



              I actually think Margiela has had quite a comeback in terms of design from the early 00s - his clothes are not more creative, albeit still subtle. The accessories are as quirky and awesome as ever (check out the EURO wallet on the Oki-ni website). He is actually ONE example where I think the buying of the company did not result in watering down or destroying the brand. Compared to what Bertelli did to Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, Rosso is an angel.

              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Pinoy
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2006
                • 661

                #8
                Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



                WIth Margiela selling his tees goods at a duty free shop, I can see how people might view Margiela selling out. However I don't find this to be the case. I do agree with Faust that Margiela might be less creative nowadays than he was in the 90s, but he's by no means safe and boring these days.



                Recent pieces that come to mind was that knit shawl collar cardigan released for FW07. The piece used three different types of knitting weaves (not sure how to describe this? its best seen in photos), and IMO was very subtle yet awesomely Margiela. I actually have one for sale? probably will be putting it up in classifieds later this week. Last season he also had a necklace with a antique silver spoon at the end. To my eye, the curved part of the spoon looked like a pearl from a distance, but upon further inspection I realized it was a spoon. :P This season, Margiela has this pullover sweater that looks like a cardigan. Awesomely quirky in the best way possible.

                Comment

                • Orochi
                  Member
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 92

                  #9
                  Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury



                  I would define selling out as in commercializing mass-produced garments under the guise of artisanal craftsmanship. Where as Hauteactually recylces old pieces of textilesinto new garments, just as Margiela did back in the days, a lot of his current stuff from my understanding is simply a mimicry of this - vast quantities of standardized production made to look like one-off, handcrafted pieces.




                  Artisanal production is an alluring and romantic thing, amidst the predominantly mass-produced choices out there - but something mass-produced to look artisanal to me is a little perverse and dishonest in its inherent design, much like plastic wood grain, or artificial stone, or even botox.



                  Comment

                  • Orochi
                    Member
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 92

                    #10
                    Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury

                    [quote user="Faust"]


                    He is actually ONE example where I think the buying of the company did not result in watering down or destroying the brand. Compared to what Bertelli did to Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, Rosso is an angel.




                    [/quote]




                    Faust,don't youfindhis Line 6'svast array of accessories and basics with lacklustre design and mediocre qualityto bea form of watering down?

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Re: Maison Martin Margiela @ eluxury

                      [quote user="Orochi"][quote user="Faust"]


                      He is actually ONE example where I think the buying of the company did not result in watering down or destroying the brand. Compared to what Bertelli did to Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, Rosso is an angel.




                      [/quote]




                      Faust,don't youthinkhis Line 6'svast array of accessories and basics with lacklustre design and mediocre quality to be a form of watering down?



                      [/quote]



                      Yea, but who carries it, and who cares about it? I daresay that it's not their main money maker. But even there, there are cool pieces to be had - it ain't no D&G, not even Royal Air Force by Raf Simons ;-). I don't think a Margiela's customer has changed much over the years. IF boutique is a wonderful testament to that. I also like that he does not compromise with the artisanal line, which can now only be had at Margiela's boutiques - both a clever business move to get people into their stores, but also not diluting it (only so many pieces can be made by hand, really).

                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

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