Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

[Faust]

It's time we honor the king of the ultimate designer menswear. I'll kick it off with the rare picture of Mr. Altieri himself.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

Seize the day

Paris, New York


With so many emerging labels seeking to establish themselves as
antidotes to more commercial fashion houses, we feel that it's time to
profile one of the original icons of the anti-establishment, currently
undertaking a unique expansion. Based in Perugia, Italy, and founded by
Maurizio Altieri in 1996 as an offshoot to Chrome Hearts,
Carpe Diem has set itself on a path of innovation which has grown into
various collections — each one exemplary with regard to experimentation
and craftsmanship. Collectively known as Continues Collection, the line
is divided into footwear and leather pieces (Carpe Diem) and a
selection of knits (L'Maltieri).


More recently, two new lines (Linea and Sartoria) were introduced at
Colette in Paris. Linea is based on a 3x3 modular system:
light/medium/heavy — white/grey/black — top/middle/bottom. Linea is
composed mostly of laser cut 3/4 length jackets, cotton trousers, and
engineered t-shirts — all of which are interchangeable, layered, and
conceptually linked. Like Carpe Diem, Sartoria (the Learjet of the
fleet) continues in the "arte povera"
aesthetic of crushed, washed, and treated leathers. But for this
collection, customers must travel to a trailer truck parked in a Paris
garage and get muslin fitted and digitally photographed, and then wait
60 days for delivery of a made-to-measure item constructed out of
leathers once buried in the desert of Afghanistan.


As with all "anti-fashion " labels, Carpe Diem doesn't advertise, and
refuses all editorials in defiance of the standards of the fashion
industry. One of the most distinguishing features of the collection is
a requirement that the clothing be displayed on meat hooks, a nod to
the founding practices of the label as a leather house. But before you
go running to A boutique in New York, Maxfield's in Los Angeles, or
L'Eclaireur or Colette in Paris, be warned that their refusal to play
the fashion game also has its downside. Carpe Diem never goes on sale.

-Waleed Khairzada

link to jcreport

[Chinorlz]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.



Wonderful photos!

As an aside, Atelier has stopped hanging their Carpe/LMaltieri/Linea items on the meathooks. They've accumulated so much of it that it's more efficient to hang on coathangers now hehehe. They are also going to be getting even more Carpe in a month or so I believe.

Next season will bring in Amadei clothing as well as LUC (as someone else on here has mentioned).

[Faust]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

I have that knit in white 12-ply overdyed cashmere. Feels good, I tell ya.

[droogist]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.



^ Holy sh*t, you have that one? I saw it in a shop for the first time a few weeks ago - I think my eyes blurred for about a minute when I saw the price (and here I was thinking I'd finally immuned myself to that sort of thing...). Good for you - imo that has to be one of the nicest things they've ever produced.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

they made it in 100% cashmere or is it a mix? i was always under the impression they only made it in wool or a mix.

[Faust]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

[quote user="droogist"]

^ Holy sh*t, you have that one? I saw
it in a shop for the first time a few weeks ago - I think my eyes
blurred for about a minute when I saw the price (and here I was
thinking I'd finally immuned myself to that sort of thing...).
Good for you - imo that has to be one of the nicest thing things
they've ever produced.

[/quote]

Let me
make your eyes blur the other way - I dug it out of a bin at a Barneys
warehous sale; it cost me scandalous $150!!!!! It still had the
$2200 price on it. It is truly gorgeous, and feels like a cosy
cacoon.

Coldrice, it's 100% cashmere.

Hmm, I think a pic for what you are wearing today is due - too bad it's so shitty outside today.

[droogist]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

[quote user="Faust"]

Let me
make your eyes blur the other way - I dug it out of a bin at a Barneys
warehous sale; it cost me scandalous $150!!!!! It still had the
$2200 price on it. It is truly gorgeous, and feels like a cosy
cacoon.

[/quote]I totally hate you.

Am now somewhat suspicious, though - the price of the one I saw started with a "€" and a "3," so either CDiem have upgraded to, like, 20-ply cashmere, or a certain store in Amsterdam is playing fast and loose with their markups. [^o)]

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.



linea with signature stitching

side note: if anyone has any linea in their closet, i've been looking for some for a long while now esp. the leathers.

[Faust]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

[quote user="Chinorlz"]

Faust, I always thought you were smaller than me but the size 4 fits you?

Awesome! I say go for it!!! I wore my leather shirt yesterday and it kicks royal ass.

Now I just need a nice crushed linen shirt (preferably the maroon, gray or off-white mmmmmmm).

-A

[/quote]

You think it'll be too big? Is yours a 3? My LMaltieri outerwear is a 3, but I was under the impression that these particular pieces are cut tighter (I don't want mine tight). I checked the measurements and they look good.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.



chinorlz's is a 4. mine is actually a 5 that's been shrunken - i fit into 3's. the sizing is usually consistent but i have found that you'll get an odd piece that's sized strange. i tried on a used size 5 leather shirt in japan once and it fit like a size 2 - but these are the outliers. and cdiem leather shirt sizing doesn't really get that much bigger as the sizes go up from size 3 in my experiences.

faust, the leather shirt is your holy grail, just get it already! i can say that it is by far my favorite piece in my wardrobe- it's a very versatile piece. i'm also curious about this rick jacket - but i'd really like to see it worn. and i like how he gives measurements that are not very helpful at all.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.



didn't know where to put this - so i'm sticking it in this thread.

JC report: The Great Secession

Since 1996, Carpe Diem
has been the go-to label for in the know, fashionable individualists
who appreciate conceptual, meticulously crafted, and deliberately
not-so-prim luxuries. We last reported on the expansion of the Perugia,
Italy, based collective into several collections (L'Maltieri, Linea,
and Sartoria) which further satisfied hordes of cult followers,
including actor Jude Law and architect Antoine Predock. With rumors
swirling for two years now that Carpe Diem's founder and figurehead,
Maurizio Altieri, may no longer be at the helm, the style cognoscenti
are wondering what's in store for the label's future. But even amid
speculations, one thing is certain: the story now has less to do with
expansion and more to do with a number of secessions. Four of the
collective's designers: Maurizio Amadei, Simone Cecchetto, Luca
Laurini, and Sara Lanzi, have left their posts and spawned collections
inspired by their own personal aesthetics.


As the designer responsible for Carpe Diem's leatherwear, Maurizio
Amadei is no stranger to turning animal skins into clothing and
accessories rife with clever construction techniques. This familiarity
is evident in his a/w '06-'07 collection for his own label, M.A+, in a
large messenger bag fashioned from one piece of leather that has no
seams, and whose sides have inventive fan-like folds secured only by
metal pins. For s/s '07, Amadei confidently explores beyond bags and
belts, sets aside his choice material of leather, and offers instead a
small collection of menswear that still manages to showcase his
penchant for innovation. Despite its cozy cotton jersey fabric, a
WWI-aviator-inspired, form-fitting hooded zip-up looks weighty, and a
blue Japanese cotton jacket appears to be textured satin, its pockets
seemingly sliced from the fabric by a dull knife — even Amadei's
unmentionables, silk cotton long johns and boxer shorts, warrant some
serious attention for their luxe utilitarianism.


While Amadei is developing M.A+ with a mini-lifestyle brand in mind,
Simone Cecchetto, who was Carpe Diem's shoe designer, doesn't stray far
from his old post, sticking to what he knows best for his solo label.
Named after his grandmother, Augusta is an incredibly focused line of
artisanal leather shoes and bags for men. Coming from a background in
body art, Ceccheto makes up for the lack of a formal shoe design
education with a single minded commitment to experimentation in order
to come up with the right leather for the right shoes, bags, and belts
in his Rome atelier. For s/s '07, this obsession, like that of a madcap
scientist, yielded several "eureka" moments. Using pig and buffalo
hides, winning pieces include Margiela-esque tall cream boots, distressed black oxfords and half-boots with discolored and beat-up laces, and deep U-shaped bags
in red, black, and brown.


Luca Laurini, however, eschews leather and accessories all together,
instead grounding his Label Under Construction line, which has been
around for three years and is the best-known of the four labels run by
former Carpe Diem members, purely in clothing. As the name suggests,
Laurini's s/s '07 collection comprised pieces which seem unfinished,
but are unmistakably crafted by a highly skilled tailor with a flair
for urban minimalism. A soft white T-shirt sports an uneven hem, a
black long-sleeve has seams down the spine and the backs of the arms
that look like they were cut with pinking shears, and tapered
low-crotch pants, which are ruched at the ankle, slightly reveal white
fabric and a button-fly. Not one to forget his design DNA, Laurini also
tips his hat to Carpe Diem, with a long-sleeve shirt covered in a faint
blue-and-white print that resembles muscle fibers, with curved seams
reinforcing the anatomical inspiration.


For former contemporary art student Sarah Lanzi, who was mainly
responsible for Carpe Diem's Linea label from 1999 to 2003, the body is
not just a reference point, but an object for "essential and
transformist pieces," which Lanzi unveiled at her premiere womenswear
collection in Paris in 2004. For a/w '06-'07, this consisted of a
mainly black palette with hints of sand and white that included a
knee-length dress with a scarf that doubles as sleeves, an unevenly
draped ribbed tank that transforms into a cowlneck sweater, and an
A-line velvet dress that appears, from the front, rather monastic
because of its heavy drapery, yet features a seductively transgressive
low-cut back. For s/s '07, Lanzi mines this same conceptual vein and
continues with pieces that have the same versatility, but adds
chromatic drama to her austerely dark palette with intense red.


"It's a good thing that the individuals who worked with this company
are now able to express their own visions unhampered," says Karlo Steel
enthusiastically. Steele plans to nurture and sell M.A+, Label Under
Construction, and Augusta in his menswear store, Atelier New York.
Sarah Lanzi is sold at If Boutique in New York. In this narrow retail
arena that caters to well-moneyed style iconoclasts, it's still a
waiting game to see whether these designers are worthy competitors of
their mother label, which has a tight grip on this fashion sect.
-Robert Cordero

Photos:
1-2 Augusta s/s '07

3-4 M.A+ s/s '07

5-6 Label Under Construction s/s '07

7-8 Sara Lanzi s/s '07

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.




linea

[Faust]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

That last shirt is absolutely insane, if I am thinking of the right one. It's so intricately cut in the back, I wish you had a shot of it. But, it's so skinny, you gotta be a Dior model to fit into one of those.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.




here's a similar shirt in an I. angora, wool, silk II. bamboo, elasthane blend from the anatomica line.

considering it.. worried about the fit though and it ain't exactly cheap either.