Damir Doma Men's FW11 Paris

[BUMMER]

FW 11

Some quotes from Damir himself (Encens No.25):
"I constantly try to avoid cuts which are too tortured, too elaborate. Because a beautiful fabric which has not been spoilt by an overly complex shape, transcends the passing time, it improves with age...I have a vital need to create clothes which you cannot gauge by putting a particular date on them."
"When you hold such fabrics you want to work them as little as possible"...
And:
"..my clothes [are] disturbing due to the simple fact of their asceticism.."
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My first reaction to Damir's FW11 collection was that he'd gone against the tenets he outlined above. Though there's plenty for me to like here, the focus on slightly tailored cuts seemed like an apology for the previous collections at first.
I do feel that this collection doesn't take the above quotes 'as far out' as previous collections, but have come to see that they don't necessarily contradict them either. This collection can be seen as a refinement as well.
I also have to admit these thoughts of 'apology' would not have crossed my mind if there were some looks related to past/recent collections interspersed between the more plain/minimalist looks. Who knows?:Perhaps they exist, but were simply edited out of the show?
These are just thoughts.. Wondering if anyone else thought the same thing...Either way, i'll still count Damir as a personal favorite and look forward to future collections..
Edit: Just seeing Shuck's post above now: Good to see that DD will reintroduce his color sense in the future. Gives me hope that he will integrate his old shapes and layers with his new shapes in the future as well...

[Swiskit]

I can't say I'm a fan of the collection overall. The stacked heel shoes weren't my cup of tea, nor were the cardigans.

I appreciate the way in which the concept tied with the collection. Particularly 'holding its own geometry against the body' -I think because, for me, overall this is what stood apart from his previous collections.

Also these coats:

...
Although I don't think the photo of the oversized silk trench does it all that much justice. I was taken aback by it in the show- singular favourite piece by far.

Shucks, thank you for the DD interview. Curious as to how colour will be worked through this new vibe. I will be eagerly awaiting that...

[Shucks]

I appreciate the way in which the concept tied with the collection. Particularly 'holding its own geometry against the body' -I think because, for me, overall this is what stood apart from his previous collections.

yes, more structure and less fluidity - i think also as part of his efforts to distinguish the women's and men's collections more from each other. see also the longer interview i just posted in the main (non-seasonal) damir thread...

[Heirloom]

i dont know about this. he's just going back to where other people already have been. i think there's more to explore in his earlier direction. I personally think sometimes his shapes are too untortured, almost lazy. i know he's a hardworking person and puts his emphasis in the fabric, but there's too little play in it.

[Swiskit]

I personally think sometimes his shapes are too untortured, almost lazy.

Think you may have hit the nail on the head in regards to why the cardigans weren't to my liking.
Lazy shapes- cardigans and bomber jacket especially.
Intrigued by the extreme drop crotch trousers, think they add a slightly more playful element to the volumes/silhouette... although the model looked as though he was having a little trouble walking when he passed me in the show.

[Macro]

i dont know about this. he's just going back to where other people already have been. i think there's more to explore in his earlier direction. I personally think sometimes his shapes are too untortured, almost lazy. i know he's a hardworking person and puts his emphasis in the fabric, but there's too little play in it.

Why must shapes be tortured to be beautiful?

[BUMMER]

He's just borrowing the word ''tortured'' from the quote..

But I agree with him that DD was really exploring a more unconventional aspect of beauty for menswear. That's one of the main things his designs did for me as well (and that this collection does to a far lesser degree.)
Though he hates the term 'unisex' I appreciate the way that it was unisex in a classic 70s Miyake way-Not by looking like women's clothes per se but by referencing cultures whose men's/women's clothes aren't that different.(i.e. Kimonos/Sarongs etc.) It's not trying to look like a girl as a statement (in western terms), but coming from a perspective that it's all the same, not to mention a great way to appreciate beautiful fabric.
I was hopeful that he would circle back to this aspect of his design, but skimming the newer interview Shuck's posted makes me think he probably won't. It's sad, really.

[lost53]

I really love the knits, and the quilted coats look very interesting, but as a collection this doesn't really hit the spot. It all seems rather stiff and lifeless, with no spark or energy. Reading his objective, I feel sorry he didn't quite get it. I really like the idea of the shoe elevating the man!

Sorry just got to add, what a track. Pure class from Mr Walker

[Naidie Yu]

surprised about the huge change of direction...
now all I want is to have a good look at those works on my own hands

[Matay]

I see Raf, Ann, and Yohji... but with a mood that is undeniably Damir.

SUPER AGREE!

The boots were kind of like super exagerated Rick Stag boots...with the rounded toe and fitted ankles....just MUCH more elevated/creeper like.

[Teazer]

I' with lost53 - The Track form Scott Walker is awesome. Can someone give me the song title?

[BUMMER]

Thanks for posting video Shucks... Excellent use of Scott Walker's "Bouncer See Bouncer".
Taking a while to digest all the seemingly drastic changes.. Consider this a place marker for now.

^Quoting myself from page 3: For Scott Walker track name. It's from his album "The Drift".

[sagill1119]

I' with lost53 - The Track form Scott Walker is awesome. Can someone give me the song title?

I am looking for that as well. anyone?

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Just above you mister.

[Darklands]

Damir Doma runway track

I am looking for that as well. anyone?

I think it is called 'Farmer in the City' from 1995's brilliant 'Tilt'. Scott Walker is a genius . . . called one of the greatest songwriters of the 20th century, by no less than Brian Eno.