Ann Demeulemeester Men's FW11 Paris

[Castor]

What about those sheer black pants over colored leggings? Hmmm.

[thehouseofdis]

What about those sheer black pants over colored leggings? Hmmm.

What are you talking about?

[Shucks]

What are you talking about?

maybe the reddish sharkskin fabric?

[thehouseofdis]

Weird Shucks, we had the same number of posts (427) before I posted this.

maybe the reddish sharkskin fabric?

Yeah, that's what I was thinking but those aren't sheer pants with colored tights underneath and they don't look like they are in the photos.

[semper]

but those aren't sheer pants with colored tights underneath and they don't look like they are in the photos.

but what could it be??
I guess we'll just have to wait...

[thehouseofdis]

but what could it be??

sharkskin fabric

[Shucks]

.....

[semper]

sharkskin fabric

sharkskin fabric as in sharkskin fabric?

[kunk75]

like mafia suiting is made from

[BUMMER]

Nah, I don't think this is sharkskin fabric... Sharkskin tends to be more iridescent i.e. "shiny".
I think these are two-layer pants. Probably a light, gauze-y black rayon over light cotton that is colored. Notice how the color showing from underneath is consistent throughout but concentrated at the knee jutting forward. That is the bottom 'color layer' pressing up against the outer black layer.
Also notice how the black layer has it's own set of smaller folds. These folds are most noticeable in shadow on the thighs. That is the lighter fabric moving on top of the more substantial bottom layer.

[525252]

^ thats what I was thinking.

The colours are so vibrant, even the blacks and mutes next to the much brighter orange/red/purple. I thought the whole thing was a great subtle kind of "vivid"

[diamonds]

[thehouseofdis]

Nah, I don't think this is sharkskin fabric... Sharkskin tends to be more iridescent i.e. "shiny".
I think these are two-layer pants. Probably a light, gauze-y black rayon over light cotton that is colored. Notice how the color showing from underneath is consistent throughout but concentrated at the knee jutting forward. That is the bottom 'color layer' pressing up against the outer black layer.
Also notice how the black layer has it's own set of smaller folds. These folds are most noticeable in shadow on the thighs. That is the lighter fabric moving on top of the more substantial bottom layer.

I don't see it. Sharkskin isn't always "shiny" it can just be a fabric woven from two colors of fiber so that the color changes during movement. Considering Ann's use of materials and fabrics in the past, I'm going to stick with my original opinion. I guess we'll have to wait to see them in person next fall, or see if any SZ members get to see them in the showroom this week.

[diamonds]

haha

its definitely not sharkskin... I thought those who said that were joking.

[casem]

Aha, the definitive answer from Tim Blank's review on style.com:


PARIS, January 22, 2011
By Tim Blanks

"Ann Demeulemeester usually starts somewhere so absorbing with her inspirations it's easy to see how her collections take on such enthralling shapes. Her latest outing was no exception. She wondered what eighteenth-century visionary poet William Blake would be like if he came back in 2011. The poetic dreamer is a staple character in her repertoire, but thoughts of Blake brought a more elemental quality to her work. Earth, air, fire, and water provided the framework. Demeulemeester's usual monochrome palette was expanded by the orange of fire, the gold of the sun, the blue of the ocean. Prints of snow and comets and stars against the black of night added a suitably cosmic tinge. Blake's writing also got the designer thinking about mythology. She wanted her models to evoke Pegasus, so there was horse hair woven into their hair.

But Demeulemeester is no airy fairy. She was quick to point out the new construction of her clothes, based around a series of precise horizontal cuts that left jackets and coats flying open. "It's not deconstruction," she said sharply, quite aware of the reputation that dogs her in the fashion world. "It's a new way to give movement." She was right. The hermetic layering of her clothing in the past had been opened up to the world, and it was inviting. Still, layering provided one of the collection's most alluring effects, with leggings and leather pants veiled in silk.

Longtime muse Patti Smith, with Lenny Kaye in Paris to perform last night, leapt to their feet at show's end. Putting the official seal of approval on a vintage Demeulemeester collection, Smith swooned backstage, "I'm in love all over again."

And further evidence, an insanely huge picture:

http://postimage.org/image/1g1nedw2s/full/