Ann Demeulemeester Men's FW11 Paris

[michael_kard]

Faust, would it be possible to create a proper Ann discussion thread? Please?

[Faust]

Just use the archive's one. I'd rather keep the discussion/images in one place.

[tricotineacetat]

It's nice that she tried on a few unexpected colours and patterns here but I think the way those were styled and presented in the show wasn't all that assured and purposeful - You almost feel she wasn't that comfortable with the colours she chose, she doesn't give that aspect of the collection much importance on the runway even though these were some pretty brave choices that require a pretty aware mastering.

I think most of the silhouettes would have much rather benefitted from simple tone-on-tone contrasts - a shiny black silk waistcoat under a matte-textured black jacket and trouser - Instead, with that bright shade of saffron orange, it makes up for a pretty harsh contrast. The same accounts for the patterns in the grey scales - They didn't really make up for an effect that blends in effortlessly as it does with someone like Dries where you see much more successful mixes of eclectic prints and weaves.

Broken down into separate pieces, I'm sure there should nonetheless be plenty interesting pieces in the collection... and that's probably all her customers could wish for.

[xallhopelstx]

I definitely see where you are coming from tricot, however I feel this is one of her strongest collections, as a statement, in recent years. There is a very specific Ann feel of course, but it is not something you'd expect her to do typically. I mean she is a lover of white and black. The colors, while maybe not for everyday wear, add a lot of dimension and pop for the runway.

I found it to be quite a big surprise and loved it. Also I am a sucker for cutaways.

Great photos Becoming Intense I love the wide angle.

[xallhopelstx]

Forgot to add: I LOVE THE SPLATTER. Brings me back to Slimane's last Pollock inspired collection.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

The colour tones used are quite warm and earthy, so it doesn't,
even with the orange pointed out, really feel that harsh of a
contrast, it actually works really well in the predominately sea
of black and grays. Surely the colour and patterns doesn't have
the same dominance as her autumn/winter 08 collection, but why
this should make it less purposeful I don't see, actually these
burning hues and flaring garments, brings a lightness amongst the all
heavy black and gray.

I was looking at some of Dries Van Notens older collections from
the mid 90s and up. Some of it is so good. What he does today is
not a good example of seamless and purpose.

[tricotineacetat]

We will probably end up seing the same colours in Ann's womenswear collection and I'm sure she'll use them a bit bolder there than she did here with the men's (I'll predict to find that a lot more visually pleasing than I find her men's runway)... In my opinion, you really have to go for those colours as she did with the one all-red suit outfit she sent down the runway here... Funny, because in a way, I found those mixed patterns in grey by far more loud than the red. In any case, that one blue jacket she showed on the runway felt like an odd end in the collection, especially since this fabric group/colour does not repeat in any other exit.

So yes, I admit it is a nice collection but I think the presentation failed in her reluctance to use the colours with more confidence - it's not that she always did, if we look back on the flower prints and the aubergine from a few seasons past...

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

It's not reluctance, it's a certain assertion that a minor flame in an
all over black fold, though fragile, can be a much more powerful
expression.

But yes, more than probably, we will see similarities in her
woman, since her female and male collections, has always
been interconnected and in dialogue, instead of opposing or
contrasting.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

[thehouseofdis]

Thanks for posting these ^ It's nice to be able to see more details.

I hope I'm making a lot more money by the time this collection comes out.

[michael_kard]

This is beautiful.