Patrik Ervell FW11 New York

[tweeds]

[tweeds]

[tweeds]

[tweeds]

Think he just out-Raf'd Raf (circa 00s), yet the details are distinctly his own.

[Servo2000]

Are the latter photos from the Ace Hotel presentation? Those photos especially look really excellent.

Feels perfectly contemporary - as I mentioned on Sufu I think the Raf circa '00 reference is a good one for the balance of these clothes between being distinct, relatively iconographic objects with a strong point of view but without a sense that they're going to look dated in 8 - 10 years (as well as the quality of the pieces - especially the knits / outerwear which are all Made in the USA. I believe that there was a fair bit of backlash about some of the outsourcing since it seems that the stuff in stores now is essentially ALL made in the USA again).

[Faust]

Please, this is so inane. It's like a poor imitation of Stephan Schneider.

[casem]

Surprise, surprise, I love it. The sleeker/darker look works quite well here while still being recognizably Ervell. I like his generally slow evolution but this bigger change is most appreciated. The black waxed bombers and knits are especially nice. The best thing about Patrik Ervell is things are extremely well made for the price and his clothes will never make you look like a fool.

Servo, I noticed the same thing. I actually complained to South Willard when things started being made in Korea and also complained and returned a pair of trousers to Patrik Ervell customer service because the snap on the winter jeans was popping open which wasn't a problem with past iterations (they've now solved it by getting rid of the snap closure). I noticed South Willard dropped Ervell after that, as the owner was quite pissed to discover things where being made in Korea as he runs quite an ethical/made in the U.S geared shop. Low and behold, this season everything is made in U.S. again and looks great, except Alpaca knits made in Peru, which is even better.

[tweeds]

Please, this is so inane. It's like a poor imitation of Stephan Schneider.

Schneider comparison seems to be a constant one. Would like to suggest instead that it has a more comprehensive outlook than Schneider's line, in that it produces consistent motivistic arcs across seasons, and the two labels talk past each other (or not at all). Schneider is a masterful technician who explicitly speaks to his passion for fabrics, Ervell's concern is with defining his visual language of "menswear".

[kunk75]

it's like schneider for people who think the red hot chilli peppers and bush are cutting edge alternative music

[BUMMER]

^Pretty funny cut-down Kunk.. Comparing something to the RHCP is one of the lowest insults in my book. Bush is probably even meaner..

But I think one of the cool things about Ervell is that he's not trying to connect his collections directly to subculture. (We already have our fave designers who cover that...)

But the Raf Simons connection isn't too far off. I see it too and understand that early Raf shows were an early inspiration for Ervell.

This is not stuff i'm raring to purchase personally, but I think he did a really nice job here. I think Servo, Casem and Tweeds make good points.

[Servo2000]

Bringing over some comments from Superfuture that I thought relevant:

...

I think Tweeds reference to Raf circa '00 on SZ is a good one. I don't think it will become quite as iconographic (I don't think anyone will ever out-Raf in that aspect) but I could see it aging similarly (if not better for the lack of 'references' which I think is currently killing the perception of Raf's work now to a certain extent).

...


The lack of visual iconography is something that really goes to the heart of Ervell in a way. What was for Raf the quickest way to communicate to a particular generation of consumers, is today also one of the reasons why he is receiving flak for his work. Ervell has little of that, for better/worse. Further, his signatures lie in his details - rounded flaps, soft edges, interplay between fabric textures - which are more durable and easier to manipulate across seasons. Think this season demonstrates that well.

...

[MikeN]

I can't figure out which client Patrik Ervell is designing for.

[kunk75]

^i know a lot of hipsters who quite like him.

[Inxight]

Can we have a moratorium on the fashion onesie please! It seems that every season some designer or label does an iteration on the flight suit/boiler suit/coverall/pajama and personally I find it lame. It's absurd, not chic or stylish, for if you would wear it with any consistency you'd be known as that wannabe pilot douche. Until someone comes up with a new take on it that necessitates it's being let's put it to rest for a while like the onesie it is.

[TypicalFashion]

I feel like there's no need to show this if there aren't going to be any new pieces. Changing up one fabric choice per season hardly warrants this. I'm a fan of his work, but he needs to start doing some, and also get his cuts right.