Ann Demeulemeester Women's S/S '16- Paris

[PurpleJesuss]

[PurpleJesuss]

[PurpleJesuss]

[Faust]

Thanks for posting. Hmmm, not crazy about this, though something tells me it looked better live.

I am not keen on him simplifying the Ann look and taking out the asymmetry. Ann is not a minimalist - the carefully calibrated mess is the beauty.

The outfit below - Ann would never make such a simplistically sexy silhouette. But whatever the fuck this top is - it's pretty fucking amazing!

[casem]

Totally agree with this. While I don't hate this, I miss the flowing drape, asymmetry and layers of older Ann.

I do get a bit of a Helmut Lang vibe though, which I don't mind.

I am not keen on him simplifying the Ann look and taking out the asymmetry. Ann is not a minimalist - the carefully calibrated mess is the beauty.

[Mattiassa]

A bit of Ann and a feeling of Versace, maybe the highlighted colors I don't know, and Balmain, perhaps the paneled vests.

I'm weak for this flirtation with S&M culture, but at the same time, in it's essence it's not Ann anymore. Of course.

[Ahimsa]

Thanks for posting. Hmmm, not crazy about this, though something tells me it looked better live.

I am not keen on him simplifying the Ann look and taking out the asymmetry. Ann is not a minimalist - the carefully calibrated mess is the beauty.

The outfit below - Ann would never make such a simplistically sexy silhouette. But whatever the fuck this top is - it's pretty fucking amazing!

It was in collaboration with the artist Kate MccGwire. They're porcupine quills.

As a collection I quite liked it. I'm very much into the harnesses and the way it was styled.

As Ann though, I definitely agree that it doesn't feel like her and feels far more generally accessible.

[Vanna]

Seems pretty watered down and not very romantic.

The first few looks remind me of Balenciaga SS07. Maybe it's the styling with the sunglasses.

[GlassOrganelle]

...

As a collection I quite liked it. I'm very much into the harnesses and the way it was styled.

As I was scrolling down I was thinking just the opposite! They look so harsh and obvious - but not in a good way, as much as I love harnesses. I think Faust's point about removing the calibrated mess is probably the reason for it. I loved seeing lashings of feathers and silver all tangled together with leather and wool.

It seems harsh and 'sexy' rather than poetic. I take this look from ss10 as an example.




The quilled vest looks amazing from a distance though.

[Bson]

Nice reference, GO. Ann also did a few leather harnesses in SS13, though I prefer the chain of course. We should be aware that SM has influences from his design pre-Ann that were blatantly sexual. And this pic shot by Diane Pernet oh my.... http://dianepernet.typepad.com/photo...en_meunier.jpg

I agree with a lot of comments above, and the brand was moving in a more minimalist direction the last couple years, though I still can't excuse the Heinz yellow and the Lululemon Teal... Eek. The prints look more Ann Taylor than Demeulemeester. I'm still waiting for a story or even some cohesion... Definitely some purchasable pieces in the mix though.

[Ahimsa]

On SZ-mag

[amulet]

I am not keen on him simplifying the Ann look and taking out the asymmetry. Ann is not a minimalist - the carefully calibrated mess is the beauty.

That's my only problem with this collection too Faust... the silhouettes & styling in this collection feels too exposed & ultra-modern and doesn't carry any of the romanticism that I love from Ann. I'm trying to get used to the new direction Sebastian is moving the brand into, but there is always something that doesn't feel right with me.