Originally posted by droogist
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Men's Fragrances
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Any suggestions for an inexpensive but non-terrible smelling body wash? As I’m working from home for ages now I’m using less fragrance than normal. Thinking that upping my shower experience would be a good motivator to get out of bed (likely not).
Getting bored of the unscented stuff from the drugstore but can’t pull the trigger on a $50 bottle from Aesop or Frederic Malle just to see it go down the drain. Hoping to find some good middle ground with some unusual fragrances, if that’s a thing that exists.
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If you want to spend a little time in exchange for complete control, I'll suggest what I've started. I purchased some Desert Essence liquid castile soap. It is cruelty free and does't use palm oil whose increasing use has led to cutting down forests to be replaced by palm plantations.
Then order an oil or oils- two good places online- Vetiver Aromatics and Aromatics International. Better yet, go to a local place to see what scents you like. Sandalwood is a good first choice- it has a warmth and compliments the body's own scent. There are online recipes but you don't need much more if anything
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Originally posted by haydn View PostAny suggestions for an inexpensive but non-terrible smelling body wash? As I’m working from home for ages now I’m using less fragrance than normal. Thinking that upping my shower experience would be a good motivator to get out of bed (likely not).
Getting bored of the unscented stuff from the drugstore but can’t pull the trigger on a $50 bottle from Aesop or Frederic Malle just to see it go down the drain. Hoping to find some good middle ground with some unusual fragrances, if that’s a thing that exists.
I actually love EO! You can get it at Whole Foods. It reminded me of Aesop at a fraction of the price. I bought it on a whim and I've been using it ever since.
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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There would be a long list but I couldn't remember all the names.
But here's one prominent name I like on my partner, the Creed Aventus - its masculine and carries a great combination of notes.
Another one I like is Creed again, the Silver Mountain Water for its neither too light nor too strong.Pari Agarwal
--> Let's discuss fashion and styling
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Current Rotation:
Comme Des Garcons x Monocle Scent 1: Hinoki -
heavy hinoki wood, turpentine, laurel, very slight citrus
similar to Aesop's Hwyl but lasts much longer
Margiela Replica: At The Barbers -
sweet, white musk, lavender, soap, fresh haircut
this scent screams "I take care of myself well and care about grooming"
Margiela Replica: Lazy Sunday Morning -
dry cleaned clothes, lily of the valley, natural and floral
good neutral scent that suits summer days the best
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Originally posted by mikemikemike View Posthas anyone had a chance to try Yoyogi scent from cdg / monocle ?
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Yohji Pour Homme is a perennial favorite of mine for twenty years - it's been reissued several years ago, and I bought a bottle at the Yohji flagship in Tokyo. They don't distribute it Stateside though (not sure which DSM you are referring to). If you are in London though, pretty sure they Yohji boutique in Conduit Street will have it.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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There is a scent called “I will not disturb you” by Yhoji which was released a few years ago and is still available. The men’s version is a lovely masculine rose scent - a dirty floral with a touch of musk and woods. Affordable too - I think I spent under $100 for the large size. A lovely fragrance and very unexpected.
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The Belgian designer left her namesake label in 2013. Can its new owner revive its fortunes with a ‘ghost’ design team?
According to this article on the relaunch of Ann Demeulemeester by Antonioli, “Ann herself” is currently working on the brands first fragrance. Does anyone have any insider info to share (Eugene, looking in your direction).
If she’s involved - high hopes!
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Originally posted by haydn View Posthttps://www.ft.com/content/ea337461-...4-a793ec5f89f9
According to this article on the relaunch of Ann Demeulemeester by Antonioli, “Ann herself” is currently working on the brands first fragrance. Does anyone have any insider info to share (Eugene, looking in your direction).
If she’s involved - high hopes!Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by Faust View PostCan you copy / paste the text, please?
The Belgian designer left her namesake label in 2013. Can its new owner revive its fortunes with a ‘ghost’ design team?
The Ann Demeulemeester flagship has been a design destination in Antwerp since it opened in 1999. It is a whitewashed place of pilgrimage for fans of the sombre, dark and deconstruction-heavy aesthetic that Demeulemeester debuted at London Fashion Week in 1987 to great acclaim as a member of the Antwerp Six (the other five are Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene and Walter Van Beirendonck). She would go on to define a post-punk way of dressing, becoming close friends with Patti Smith —*her default muse —*as ultimate validation.
Demeulemeester departed the house in 2013, leaving its creative vision in the hands of her second-in-command, Sébastien Meunier, while she went on to create tour outfits for PJ Harvey and dabble in ceramics and homeware. Last summer, Italian retailer Claudio Antonioli — previously the co-owner of contemporary brand conglomerate New Guards Group, which was sold to Farfetch for $675m in 2019 — revealed he was taking over the label. Demeulemeester, with her family, is involved in the relaunch.
Today, the windows of the Antwerp space are blanked out, with the words “new beginning” written large across them. Demeulemeester’s husband, Patrick Robyn, is working behind the scenes, art directing a new interior that will be unveiled after June. Ann herself is working on the first Demeulemeester fragrance. And next week, a digital presentation of the autumn/winter collection will set the tone for a new era of the Demeulemeester brand.
Once considered the Belgian answer to the sepulchral chic of Tokyo’s nihilists, and beloved by rock stars and anti-fashion intellectuals, the Demeulemeester label has been somewhat adrift since the founder’s departure. Antonioli bought the licensing company that owns it, BVBA 32, from founder Anne Chapelle, who had been struggling with cash flow. Revenues of the label that Demeulemeester (who had just departed) founded were about €21m annually in 2014, Chapelle writes over email; after Demeulemeester’s departure, they faced a “steep decline”, falling to €15.5m in 2019, she says. But there is reason to believe there is opportunity here.*Other designers with a similarly dark aesthetic, such as Rick Owens, have built nine-figure businesses out of black cotton basics and boots. The latter is a category Demeulemeester excels in; the label’s £1,230 over-the-knee leather stretch boots have been one of Net-a-Porter’s bestselling styles for the autumn/winter season.
Antonioli’s approach is a maverick one. He announced last year that Demeulemeester’s successor, Meunier, would not be part of the company in the future, instead pledging to work solely with a “ghost” design team. For a brand that forged an identity around one individual in 1985, a 2021 collective interpretation could be interesting. “We have a perfectly catalogued archive, impeccably preserved since the foundation of the maison,” he says. “That allows us to plan the future while reaching down to the roots.” To underscore his point, this spring there are just 13 looks on sale —*all pulled from the archives between 1996 and 2012, when Demeulemeester was designing everything herself. They capture her style succinctly: black leather, billowing fabrics, asymmetry, CBGB chic.
“I think Claudio will bring modernity,” says Simon Jablon, owner of eyewear label Linda Farrow, who has collaborated with the Demeulemeester brand for years. “The label’s DNA and roots are so strong that sometimes when a brand leans on those for too long, it can become a curse. Fresh blood is always needed.”
Antonioli is fresh blood, but he is also family. His first store in Piazza Lima — opened in 1987 — brought Rick Owens, Van Noten and Demeulemeester to Milan when they were all still seen as deeply esoteric. “The respect for the brand’s DNA is fundamental,” he says. “We won’t follow market trends just for financial gain.”
However, many reboots of brands founded by visionaries have stumbled. Bringing back Helmut Lang in 2017 with a rotating roster of guest designers hasn’t been a clear success. Several have tried their hand at Thierry Mugler and Halston.
Many industry insiders are wary of anyone taking on such a revered brand as Demeulemeester, with an aesthetic forged during the designer-as-auteur era in the 1980s, in the raven-black wake of Comme and Yohji, launching in London at the time of Body Map, Ozbek and Galliano. All were superstars, all ended up going down different paths, some of them dead ends.
“On an aesthetic level, it would be a challenge to imagine a designer that will truly understand her essence,” says Odunayo Ojo, who presents The Fashion Archive channel on YouTube, and who also co-runs the @oldanndemeulemeester Instagram account. “I think her customer base cares more about silhouettes and narrative than logos. Any attempt at over-commercialising the brand would completely fail.” Ojo represents the customer, as well as critic, that Antonioli will need to win over.
"Any attempt at over-commercialising the brand would completely fail"
-Odunayo Ojo, The Fashion Archive YouTube channel
It takes years to create a certain credibility, but it’s easy to destroy that overnight with dodgy licensing. For years, the Vivienne Westwood orb emblem was shorthand for a vibrant London counterculture; now it is on surplus stock shirts at TK Maxx. For his part, Antonioli says he has no plans to go down that route. “We won’t use the logo in the designs,” he says. “I respect the DNA, combined with evolution. Our clothing will be timeless and won’t be limited to one season. Ann has always had a model of sneakers and they will continue to be produced, but we won’t co-brand. That’s often just marketing, polluting the DNA.”
With independent boutiques and department stores dropping like flies, Antonioli is focusing on direct sales. “We have reduced retailers by 60 per cent and are implementing a selective and strict distribution strategy,” he says. He has pledged to focus on core products and improve quality.
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Thank you, sir!Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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