CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

[zamb]

Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

[quote user="Chinorlz"]


The waistband took forever (still need to run two more lines of stitches around too)... mostly because thesewing machine I have can't handle the multiple layers of denim. I should invest in something more industrial later...

But I overlocked the crotch seam so here is all that:

I'm going to pin the twisting today and finish up the rest of the waistband/belt loops at the end.

If these were straight legged jeans, life would be easier. No need for a lining and no twisting! I'm considering making a pair (much later.... haha) like the upcoming overlock jeans from Carol.

[/quote]

Albert,

I take it you have a domestic (home) sewing machine as opposed to an industrial one.........three months ago i knew someone who was selling both an industrial stright stitch and an overlock (serger) for $500 total, i had a friend of mine buy it because i had no space to put anything else , and right now have too many machines.

Ocassionally i hear about deals like this, would you be interested in something if i hear about any.

The pants is really great. proud of you, I am really interested in seeing the front though, as i know the crotch/fly (zipper /button?) closure may be challenging. I am (was?)a denim specialist and i know thats the hardest part to do on Jeans ( i even had to take apart my DRKSDW jean in the crotch and redo them as even the great Rick Owens didnt have his properly!!!!!

the back looks good though, and i do love the asymetrical pockets, the only problem seems to be the waisband seems to stick out slightly at the top...........this could be because of several possible factors, of which i will explain tomorrow

your technique is somewhat better than mine (mine is not really a true overlock as the thread goes between the fabric as opposed to "over" as yours do. ( i will buy the bag making machine)

What are you doing for buttonholes and bartacks ?(the reinforcement stich on the fly, pockets , loops etc)

when will you be in NYC, if you need i can help you with those as have (have access to) the machines just let me know.......... this is very important as you want your pants to last, and not fall apart "prematurely"

but be warned though, this crap can get addictive, remember I too had med-school ambitions and ended up a designer!!!!!!!.............. and interestingly my first pants ever made was a pair of denim Jeans!!!!!!!

[Chinorlz]

Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



Thanks Zamb! I was eagerly awaiting your response on this thread :)

So I have been using the original CCP twist jeans as my template and his has no rivets... only a button fly (which I redid as a zipper fly because it was easier) and that interesting waistband closure.

You've got a good eye. The waistband ended up being a bit loose in the back. I realized after sewing it on (probably one of the most tedious parts because I had to do it by hand making sure that the lining and the denim was together while stitching the waistband on to secure these together) that the waistband isn't a straight length of fabric but should either be angled more of a U shape when cut out or should be stitched on slightly differently.... a learning process I guess. My saving grace are belt loops (a belt to minimize this "back pooch") and since I typically don't tuck in shirts it won't show.

I may take you up on your offer as I'd love to see your studio as well! I'll be in NYC mid-July for a few days. Love to meet up!

The crotch was indeed the most difficult and I fear that it's now impossible to fix without some serious redoing of the pants since they're fully lined and the lining is locked in with a regular stitch as well as the overlock.

Purity, to generate the twist you have to cut the denim slightly wider than the lining (which should be much slimmer as it is going to maintain that twist in the outer denim layer). Then you have to twist the denim while keeping the lining straight and then run a temporary stitch to hold it in place, then reverse the two layers and then pin along the outer denim seam line as it twists around the lining. Then you stitch that and voila, you have twisting legs!

Carol's method is a bit easier but requires a bit more thinking in terms of making your pattern. He cuts the denim and then pins it to precut and premeasured lining (the lining of the entire pants is constructed out of two pieces of fabric only... one piece per leg!) to generate a consistent twist from pair to pair. With my method, each pair will be slightly different. My pair is even different from left to right leg even though I tried to match the stitchwork as closely as possible.

Zamb, hehe it IS addictive. It's lovely fun work to say the least but... medicine is for sure going to be my career hehe. I've worked much to long and hard at it to give up now. Even so, if I could lead two simultaneous lives I would definitely be a designer along with being a physician. I was talking to Coldrice a couple of days ago... with the right choice in medical specialty, you can have tons of time to pursue other interests! A decade to 15 years from now you may see me opening a small boutique hidden away somewhere!

I'll be dropping you a line soon Zamb. I'd love to learn directly from someone who has knowhow in the world of design. I'm totally flying by the seat of my pants.

I will post an updated photo of these twist jeans this evening (final two things required are belt loops and to overlock the twisted seam)!

[jamescarter-lapd]

Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

good work man. overlocking the whole thing by hand is nuts, i wish i had that sort of patience. ive been analysing your post a bit, i might attempt this one day. was the lining necessary or did u just want to be asclose to the original?

once again great work

[Chinorlz]

Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

[quote user="jamescarter-lapd"]

good work man. overlocking the whole thing by hand is nuts, i wish i had that sort of patience. ive been analysing your post a bit, i might attempt this one day. was the lining necessary or did u just want to be asclose to the original?

once again great work

[/quote]

Thanks :)

I have more photos (of everything in a less-constructed state as well) that I will post as soon as I complete these jeans. I'll be working on them all day tomorrow. Let's just say that I've been able to watch a LOT of movies while overlocking'stitching these jeans (most of the small, fine seams I've done by hand... the sewing machine I have here just isn't good... and some of the denim layers are THICK.

The lining is absolutely integral to the classic CCP twist. You generate the twist by stitching the outer layer in a twisting fashion to the lining as the lining is held straight. Makes the whole process a bit more complicated to say the least hahaha. I had to pin/stitch the twist 4 separate times to both figure it out and to make sure that when I marked it while wearing them (the only way I could make sure the twisting was correct), that the twist would be accurately marked on the lining inside when I reversed it to stitch the denim seam to the inner lining.

Slow work for sure... but if I ever had to make another pair again (I may one day do a black dress pant pair) it would go a bit faster both due to me likely having an industrial sewing machine and a bag closing machine and since I know how to make these/pin these more efficiently now. This pair took a long time due to lots of hand stitching and figuring things out on the fly hahaha

[zamb]

Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



Yes Albert,

you need to invest in an indutrial sewing machine you may also need a small (non industrial)overlock for other projects. you can get one of these for about $150 - 200 , dont worry some of them are really good (i had one i used for years even in sewing collections)......... I will make a recommendation on the best ones as there are a few (of which i learned from experience) that are really crap not worth buying.

you dont really have to want to be a professional designer, there is a certain fulfilment that one gets to be able to make something for yourself.......... It was this desire that drew me into fashion. matter of fact, i never made a conscious descision to be a designer, but became one out of the gradual evolution of making things for myself to friends---- to thier friends---- to thier friends---- and ultimately having my first custom made business at 17....... It became a full time profession when i started making too much money to keep my then dayjob as a proof-reader.

feel free to ask me anything you want, it is a pleasure to share my knowledge.

regarding the studio, I dont really have one, for the last three years i have been producing garments out of my house (my kitchen to be exact) with my sewing machines set up there as it is the biggest room in the house, my apartment now is really crappy, I made the decision to live here so that i would be able to save enough to buy a house, now i have the money so i would say within a few months i should be relocating (still in NYC though) to a place with a big NICE studio

then i will have a wonderul setup.

the beautiful studio you see in the background o the pics i post belong to the company i work for, the blessing i have is that the owners allow me to work on my own projects there. so technically even though i dont own it, i have 24hr access to it, with all the computer programs for patterns and machines for leather, knits, denim , and a ton of other materials..to do what i want whenever i want ( outside of 9-5 when i have to do what i get paid for) I am senior designer of apparel there, so outside of the Boss which is a client of mine , i run the studio operations

Regarding the waisband , there are three possible factors that could have led to the waisband sticking out, in the interest of time, i will try to summarize my explanation and address the one that seems relevant to your pants .

there are three angles that affect the fit of the hip/waist of a pants.

1. the angle of the curve at the seat of the crotch

2. the angle of the top of the pants back where the center back seam meets the waist

3. the angle of the waist/ sideseam corner (i wish i had a diagram for visual aid)

number 1 and 3 varies according to the size of the person and the style/fit of the pants

number2, when the pants is finished sewn (before the waisband is added) must ALWAYS be a right angle, so that when the center back(CB) seam is joined it foms a straight line across the back of the pants, parallel to your natural waist

If the angles are greater than 90 degrees, when the CB is joined it will created a "dip" in the back (which seems to be what happened to you pants) when a straight waisband is sewn to this "dip" it will cause the sticking out that is happening.

the solution to this at this stage is to cut and makea contoured (curved) waisband .

this is mostly used on womens pants, and is sometime a bit morte difficult to cut and manipulate (although Earnest sewn, one of my favorite denim brands, uses this band on some of thier mens pants)

Womens pants are often cut closer to the body and because thier waist/ hip ratio is greater than that of a man they need this contoured band more than we do