Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[DHC]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



Thank you so much for providing some insight. Most on this board are very much in tune with what you have had to say. So I think its very safe to say that no offense is taken here.

It is interesting to hear how Guidi went about rebranding. Unfortunately that is the very nature of the industry where most are shrewd businessmen (as you stated) whose love of money supersedes any respect of intellectual property. Business is business and apparently in the world of fashion there is no 'honor amongst thieves'. It does seem to be the case in the majority of instances from my experience. Okay that statement might provoke a little animosity.Oops!

And welcome to SZ Geoffrey!

[Johnny]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

Wow...marvellous post.

[lowrey]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

agreed, very thorough post with great information, thanks very much.

nowI'm just reallyhoping you'll be able to contribute to some of the other discussions regarding Maurizio, carpe,and others:)

[Faust]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



Thank you, Geoffrey. We appreciate the time you have taken to write, and like DHC said, we agree with you. I doubt that there is more appreciation for Altieri's work outside of this forum.

On a side note, I like your work as well - always examine it when I am at IF boutique - although I admit that your last collection was hard to swallow. I wish you luck with your current collection, and I hope you can come back and post more of your insights when you have time.

[laika]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



Geoffrey, thank you very much for your insights and for taking the time to write them out. I'm very much looking forward to seeing your next collection and I hope you may have time to contribute to that discussion as well. (I loved Heroes of another gender.)

These threads are really becoming remarkably comprehensive, and filled with some great writing to boot. [64]

[philip nod]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

"But what would you do in his shoes, if you had created a very special artistic thing and saw your partners all try to become exploiters of the concept in their own interests? You might get sick of the whole thing and shut the doors too. Man does not live by bread alone. Real artists even more so. "

well, I would show them who the real deal is, not walk away. look at picasso to take one generic example in a scenario that has repeated itself ad nausem throughout creative history. him and braque come with cubism and spawn a million imitators. but do they dont stop painting? no thats absurd, they evolve. they best their imitators.

i hope we'll see maurizio again, in top form but until then i wish him well in finding his creative spirits again, shouldnt be too hard as they literally are his shoes.

and maybe jesus was just a shrewd business man after all?

[xadam]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison




[quote user="Geoffrey B. Small"]

The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.

[/quote]

Much of this post rings hollow to me. Implying that Maurizio had no mentors, no influences, is hardly a defensible position. Every designer in every discipline has external inspirations. That you can directly trace Augusta's work to Carpe Diem doesn't make the work any less legitimate.

I'm also bothered by the apologist tone around Maurizio's disappearance.

But, I love this first-hand perspective, Geoffrey. Thanks.

[lowrey]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



[quote user="xadam"]Much of this post rings hollow to me. Implying that Maurizio had no mentors, no influences, is hardly a defensible position. Every designer in every discipline has external inspirations. That you can directly trace Augusta's work to Carpe Diem doesn't make the work any less legitimate. [/quote]

but then again this was a matter of comparing his work to Guidi inAugusta, in which case he apparently was leading the way.

[ddohnggo]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

i wish augusta wasn't designing carpe diem for kenneth cole. hate the squared toesssssssss.

[Faust]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison

[quote user="xadam"]

[quote user="Geoffrey B. Small"]

The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.

[/quote]

Much of this post rings hollow to me. Implying that Maurizio had no mentors, no influences, is hardly a defensible position. Every designer in every discipline has external inspirations. That you can directly trace Augusta's work to Carpe Diem doesn't make the work any less legitimate.

I'm also bothered by the apologist tone around Maurizio's disappearance.

But, I love this first-hand perspective, Geoffrey. Thanks.

[/quote]

I don't agree with this, although I usually would. Altieri worked for Chrome Hearts before launching his own label. Maybe he got to know how the leather works, but his aesthetic is certainly anything but Chrome Hearts. Maybe inspiration for his style came from non-fashion world, but that's another story. What Geoffrey is saying that his vision in fashion was original and spawned many copy cats. I can definitely see that in the rise of the brands such as Julius, Christian Peau, Paul Harndnen, Guidi, FORME D'EXPRESSION, Peachoo + Krejberg, etc. I am not even talking about the CDiem spinoffs, those are obvious (although I do think that Label Under Construction is awesome in its own right and is fairly disconnected from the CDiem aesthetic).

[FAUSTA]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison



altiri o muerte!i had been in paris during the last fashion week and i had seen the ultimate maurizio altieri creature....avantindietro shoes and garments.....what do you think about the installation...patterns on the floor the 3 iron trees AND THEIR 9 BRANCHES......past present and future backword and forward....he is the future,he is already a thousand steps beyond this ridicoulus contemporary fashion attitude.

TALKING ABOUT GUIDI I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU....THE SHOES ARE SO BASIC TO BE MORE THAN MODERN...I'D LOVED THE CUT TOE NEW STYLES,DO YOU KNOW WHO INSPIRES MR.GUIDI?ALBERTO GIACOMETTI...

MY ENGLISH IS ACTUALLYTERRIBLE....I AM SORRY BUT CIAO

[FAUSTA]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



THANKS A LOT GEOFFREY,

FINALLY SOMEONE IS TELLING ALL THE TRUTH ABOUT MAURIZIO AND CDIEM.

THERE JUST A POINT I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE CLEAR:SIMONE CECCHETTO HAD BEEN PART OF THE CDIEM TEAM FOR A VERY SHORT TIME-6 MONTHS-AND HE NEVER NEVER WORKED ON THE SHOES.MAURIZIO DID NOT TEACH HIM ANYTHING ANYWAY HE SEEMS TO BE GOOD IN WHAT HE DOES...I HAD SEEN JUSTHIS VERY FIRST COLLECTION SO....I DON'T KNOW.

I KNOW MAURIZIO SINCE YEARS MORE THAN TEN NOW....I WAS WORKING WITH HIM ,STOPPING AND STARTING AGAIN NOW I DEFINITELY STOPPED BUT I HAD BEEN PART OF THE STORY I HAD SEEN THE GREAT AND THE BAD TIME AND I KNOW HOW MAURIZIO SUFFERED AND FIGHTED NOT TO GET FAMOUS BUT TO FOLLOW HIS OWN PATH WITH NO COMPROMISE.

THANKS AGAIN PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT,TO REALIZE THAT MAYBE HIS BOAT HAD BEEN A VERY SMALL BOAT BUT TWISTED -IS THAT CORRECT?-A LOT OF WATER......

[Faust]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[quote user="FAUSTA"]

altiri o muerte!i had been in paris during the last fashion week and i had seen the ultimate maurizio altieri creature....avantindietro shoes and garments.....what do you think about the installation...patterns on the floor the 3 iron trees AND THEIR 9 BRANCHES......past present and future backword and forward....he is the future,he is already a thousand steps beyond this ridicoulus contemporary fashion attitude.

TALKING ABOUT GUIDI I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU....THE SHOES ARE SO BASIC TO BE MORE THAN MODERN...I'D LOVED THE CUT TOE NEW STYLES,DO YOU KNOW WHO INSPIRES MR.GUIDI?ALBERTO GIACOMETTI...

MY ENGLISH IS ACTUALLYTERRIBLE....I AM SORRY BUT CIAO

[/quote]

Despite your English (which is not bad), could you describe AVANTINDIETRO in more detail? What pieces were there, more about the presentation, any new techniques and methods? I am sure a lot of people on this forum would appreciate it. Thank you. You can write it in Italian, if you want, and I'll have my Italian friend translate it.

[klangspiel]

Re: Carpe Diem, Augusta and Guidi comparison

[quote user="FAUSTA"]\

DO YOU KNOW WHO INSPIRES MR.GUIDI?ALBERTO GIACOMETTI...

MY ENGLISH IS ACTUALLYTERRIBLE....I AM SORRY BUT CIAO

[/quote]

I'd wager Guidi isn't the only one inspired by Giacometti.

And don't worry about your English, reads and communicates fine.

[surver]

Re: Maurizio Altieri, there is no comparison



great applause to you, geoffrey!!! well written, well spoken, well expressed :) although i'm not in the fashion industry, as an architect i can relate very much to the need to respect integrity and authenticity and be wary of exploiters... sigh, 'tis the sad and lowly state of our societies today... what can one do?