I think he said something in relation to this summer's collection about how everything in it could be worn with stuff he'd done before. I agree that it's not so easy. I actually think that the taxi driver one is the most incongruous of recent collections. It was unrelentingly canvas and green. At least with the bikers one there was some nice stuff in black wool, and there was also the barbour bikers jacket. He's also looked at bikers in a couple of different ways - the wester stye winter collection, then the hawaiian summer collection. as well as the recent one we're talking about here. The taxi driver collection is I think the only one of his collections from which I have no items.
I see there being three approaches applied in his work. The first overarching thing about basing his menswear on existing or real clothes, which is almost the opposite from his approach to womenswear. Then secondly there are the various "themes" - biker, mountaineer, soldier, old-fashioned ivy league) and thirdly, the common vocabulary (goin back to the first approach) as to how those themes are expressed (things like - reworking old clothes, basic templates for outfits, putting in unexpected object or fabrics to well knowns items of clothing (zippers on peacoats, tartan patches on oxford shirts, biker jackets made of shirting material, suits made of tacksuit nylon etc).
I think it's possible to find an affinity with this way of working, as an "in" to each collection, but ultimately you hve to like the pieces themselves. The concept tail can wag the aesthetic dog sometimes, as I well know......
I see there being three approaches applied in his work. The first overarching thing about basing his menswear on existing or real clothes, which is almost the opposite from his approach to womenswear. Then secondly there are the various "themes" - biker, mountaineer, soldier, old-fashioned ivy league) and thirdly, the common vocabulary (goin back to the first approach) as to how those themes are expressed (things like - reworking old clothes, basic templates for outfits, putting in unexpected object or fabrics to well knowns items of clothing (zippers on peacoats, tartan patches on oxford shirts, biker jackets made of shirting material, suits made of tacksuit nylon etc).
I think it's possible to find an affinity with this way of working, as an "in" to each collection, but ultimately you hve to like the pieces themselves. The concept tail can wag the aesthetic dog sometimes, as I well know......
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