Rick Owens Mens F/W 09/10

[Casius]

Wow, so is the skirt actually being attached to the pants (the ones in the background in the second picture)?

[editevening]

damn, this jacket hangs dope when unzipped

[ahlefeldt]

[ahlefeldt]

[Casius]

damn, this jacket hangs dope when unzipped

Yea, I wish the Spring leather was like that....but ah well. It does look good though.

[Fuuma]

Thanks, Fuuma. I certainly agree about enjoying the inclusion of tailoring, and i think it was remarkably successful. I wasn't expecting that, based on the tailoring attempts in his women's collections.

It's not so much that this reminded me of Brancusi, but of Rick comparing himself to Brancusi--just a slab of metal on a hunk of wood, but it's about the right piece of metal, the right hunk of wood and the perfect gesture.

That quote always stays with me because I love the minimalist ethos of it, but this is the first time I would say he's really lived up to it.

One thing to remember about Brancusi is that he wasn't a "conceptual" artist but a very visceral one, a mad god creating metal and wood creatures, pushing his primal urges to replace a world already settled into a diverging logic. Owens seems almost too self-aware to be like Brancusi but he certainly is inspired by him.

As for the collection well it is in my opinion his strongest so far and surprisingly on point without trying to cater to consensus. I'd define Paris F/W 09-10 as being concerned with a certain somberness and austerity coupled with dandy-ish touches that could be seen from Branquinho and YSL to Demeulemeester and all the way to RO. Heck even Pugh presented "suits".

[laika]

One thing to remember about Brancusi is that he wasn't a "conceptual" artist but a very visceral one, a mad god creating metal and wood creatures, pushing his primal urges to replace a world already settled into a diverging logic. Owens seems almost too self-aware to be like Brancusi but he certainly is inspired by him.

As for the collection well it is in my opinion his strongest so far and surprisingly on point without trying to cater to consensus. I'd define Paris F/W 09-10 as being concerned with a certain somberness and austerity coupled with dandy-ish touches that could be seen from Branquinho and YSL to Demeulemeester and all the way to RO. Heck even Pugh presented "suits".

That is precisely my point and also Rick's. The full quote: Okay, but I'm not doing anything very conceptual. My main concept is you don't have to be so conceptual. I'm minimal and straightforward. When I explain it to people, I compare a William-Adolphe Bouguereau painting with a Brancusi sculpture. I'm the Brancusi sculpture, just a slab of metal on a hunk of wood, but it's about the right piece of metal, the right hunk of wood and the perfect gesture.

I do agree with you that he is almost too self-aware, but I think that is inherent to the medium of fashion.

Nice overall review, btw. I've yet to look closely at VB, but it looked good.

[Time & Space]

Choices?

After a lot of thinking and deliberation about what to grab from his upcoming pieces, I have been leaning towards ordering these two pieces?




They seem to encapsulate the mood of the whole line and the leather jacket holds a combination of all the pieces to me, maybe a hood would be cool too. It looks as if it has a sheep faux lining, much like the Cloak Grizzly jacket.



As you can tell I am excited, since I had been waiting for two years for RO to up his men's collection to something interesting and worth buying. Though, I have a lot of Drkshdw pieces....

Anyone else considering any pieces?

[Time & Space]

depending on how cheaply they can be had

it may come down to being one or the other, but i'm still not sure which one.

Yeah, that is why I have been studying the pieces, since I got a taste of the prices, and figured I better choose--picking six pieces was not going to work when David emailed me the quotes..

I have to special order, since my broad shoulders tend to not allow me to fit into a slim M/L like most of you guys -- I have to get an XL, even though I am a slender 190lbs, my shoulders don't allow for the cut to work-- I am stuck in having to pre-order the pieces so I am assured in the buy, before all the pieces are taken.

That happened to me, with CCP and the paper derby's

and I have since learned my lesson.

I like your choices, those are nice jackets too. I like the broad lapelle's, though I think I tend to lean toward the first one- as the other becomes a bit classic peacoat which is why you are fond of it, the other hints at a modern pea coat which I am drawn to. I wish I could pull about six pieces from this collection...What do you think of this leather?

[dji]

interested to see how much the cut of the coats varies, there are 3-4 coats with a similar button configuration but with different lengths, material and details (eg. sleeve zippers). I've found that a coat that ends around 10cm above the knee is more flattering on myself than one with a cropped length or that extends past the knee.

hopefully they don't all look like a tradition double breasted coat when worn closed, I've finally learnt my lesson that double breasted coats consistently look crap on me.

[justine]

@$2300

I am at peace with the price, and planing to kop!

Wait, the grey leather is 4400USD???

Yeah, I'm not at peace with that price!

I was hoping that after the sale-mania this fall and the presumed sales of this spring that designers would smarten up and lower their base price for next fall. Maybe not. Now that they know we'll only buy at 60% off maybe they'll jack up prices even higher so they still make a crazy profit no matter what percentage is taken off!

I think RO is doing well and isn't affected by the current economic climate as much as one could think.

[Fuuma]

That is precisely my point and also Rick's. The full quote: Okay, but I'm not doing anything very conceptual. My main concept is you don't have to be so conceptual. I'm minimal and straightforward. When I explain it to people, I compare a William-Adolphe Bouguereau painting with a Brancusi sculpture. I'm the Brancusi sculpture, just a slab of metal on a hunk of wood, but it's about the right piece of metal, the right hunk of wood and the perfect gesture.

I do agree with you that he is almost too self-aware, but I think that is inherent to the medium of fashion.

Nice overall review, btw. I've yet to look closely at VB, but it looked good.

Nicely put into context.

Hmm, the last part concerns me, would you say young and still maturing designers are more or less affected by that (I'm especially wondering about your opinion regarding the Pugh show).

[Casius]

A few more backstage from hintmag...

[Time & Space]

Got some prices on some items:



@$2300





@$4,400





@$1650

Edit-- Of course prices may vary but this is what I was told!

More prices----


@$3500



@$3500

Forgot to add this one to the prior, without the hood!

@$2300

[Spencer]

Man, those prices are high. The collection looks fantastic, but damn.