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Geoffrey B. Small

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  • Monty76
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 338

    Amazing! Thank you so kindly for sharing with us. I wish all my clothes had this sort of story and detail behind it.

    I purchased the grezzo low-gauge linen trousers (amazing!) and now I feel bad for separating it from its accompanying Sack Coat. Will have to enquire to see if it is still available.

    You probably consciously choose not to include this, but I would love to see a picture of the full Mr. Tomoyuki Furukawa custom fitted jacket.

    Thanks again!

    Comment

    • Geoffrey B. Small
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2007
      • 618

      Dear Monty 76,

      Thanks so much for your post.

      You are correct in that we did not photo Mr. Tomoyuki's pieces. However, the LUJ04.1 is the same model design as the jacket worn by Koos Faber above in the previous post. We made it along with the Afghan salwah trouser for him. Another suit was made for the store. But Mr. Tomoyuki's jacket is the only one with the fully handsewn shoulder.

      We also made 2 LUJ04.2 jacket and LUJ07 waistcoat combinations in L.Parisotto organic antique cotton seersucker and old fashion stripes for MinorityRev as in the photos below. One for Mr. Tomoyuki with his jacket again having the fully handset shoulder construction, and the other for the store.

      Again, the photos are not of his actual hand constructed shoulder jackets, and the handset shoulder does have a special look to it, but they do depict the design models his jackets were made in. Hope this helps a little.

      In regards to the sack coat, please do contact the guys at Pollyanna, I'm sure they will be glad to assist in whatever way they can.

      Thanks again and best wishes,

      Geoffrey






      Comment

      • cjbreed
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2009
        • 2712

        i really liked the clothing when i saw the update in the pollyanna thread, but after coming here and reading the story behind the clothing, i'm kind of blown away. so i just want to pop in here and applaud Geoffrey for all of his efforts. his spirit and enthusiasm are inspirational and his ability to continue to put his heart and soul into his work is truly admirable. not to mention his unwavering commitment to environmental sustainability.

        this post is verging on ass kissiness but the truth is that for me its just refreshing to see work that so embodies our goal of separating fashion from consumerism and celebrity culture.

        bravo!
        dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

        Comment

        • Mail-Moth
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2009
          • 1448

          I must say that, wether on this thread or on the one dedicated to Pollyanna, what is shown from your recent work is simply beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
          I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
          I can see a man with a baseball bat.

          Comment

          • orphée
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2008
            • 311

            I really like where the Afghan trousers break. Material looks so light-weight, too (is it really so?)

            Comment

            • SuperTurboTaco
              Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 89




              Truly amazed by GBS. Had my first opportunity to handle his work last week and I wish I could have bought the store out! My words and photos can`t do justice.

              Comment

              • Geoffrey B. Small
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2007
                • 618

                New Works: May 2010

                Dear SZ'ers,

                May was a very busy month for us in the workrooms. It was also notable for its strange weather patterns almost everywhere. Some had extremely hot weather and others extremely cold for this time of year. May was also fraught with epic environmental events. A single volcano in Iceland closed most of the world's international air traffic indefinitely for several weeks. Entire areas such as Guatemala, Chile, Haiti continue to be devasted by above normal frequency and intensity of storms, hurricanes, earthquakes. With its disastrous effects still hidden in the depths, the Gulf of Mexico oil disaster has no end in sight and now threatens to affect us even more with predictions of an "above normal "hurricane season. And the madness of the global nuclear energy renaissance and its accompanying nuclear arms proliferation is accelerating everywhere with deals being made that are leading us into a new and deadly plutonium economy that will have far less transparency, independent public oversight, and degree of safety protection for the general population than the oil industry which has caused the Gulf of Mexico catastrophe.

                If such a thing can result from a single oil rig mistake, what's the guarantee that the same or even much worse can't happen with a nuclear power facility which will release mountains of deadly radioactive material that will remain active for up to 4 billion years into the future? A promise from your government and the big global corporation that is running the thing, that they know how to handle it all? Now we know something about their promises and their "know-how" in a catastrophe, don't we? Now we know that perhaps they are little better than the sweatshop factories in Bangladesh that are banging out fast fashion in a hurry by the millions of pieces in slavery conditions that are designed to fall apart after weeks, and sold to a public that doesn't have a clue what they are being lead to buy into. Yeah that's right, they're just wingin' it like everybody else. "If there's a problem, we'll deal with it later. For now make as much money as you can and forget about tomorrow." Well the problems are happening and tomorrow is here. Our system and way of life is deadly sick and it's dead wrong. It is the industrial revolution, and it is the grand mistake. It must be stopped and fixed by all of us. Now more than ever, we are seeing the unmistakable signs of how closely connected all of us are to this planet and its ecosystem. And fashion needs to reflect, respond and do its part to relate and do something about today's environmental and human realities---starting first and foremost with a complete overhaul in the way its entire industry communicates with, and treats, people, resources and planet-- and of course, how we go about dressing ourselves and providing clothes for others to wear and use.

                On that note, here are some new pieces that came out of our workrooms recently in May for various clients around the world that aim to provide an alternative working model to industry and consumer norms, and provide superior service and wear in both hot and cold and otherwise strange weather conditions. Nowadays, you never know what may pop up next...

                Best wishes, Geoffrey






                Geoffrey B. Small for StyleZeitgeist
                New Works : May 2010






                The featherlight hand tea dyed linen jacket for Ageha, Kobe

                Hand tea dyed Superlight pure Varese linen 5-button jacket with handpainted vintage recycled buttons and handsewn buttonholes made for Ageha in Kobe, Japan. Maximum production 5 pieces for the entire world. An antithesis to fast fashion, this piece is designed to last. Guaranteed for one full year free parts, repairs and workroom services. Beyond a year, our workroom services continue to be available at standard workroom rates.









                The 19th century waistcoat for Minority Rev, Fukuoka


                19th century original pattern waistcoat made in a remarkable hand cold dyed organic untreated double-faced antique raised striped cotton woven exclusively for us by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Vicenza Italy, with handcasted 15th century Italian buckle design reproduction made by Massimo Beccaria in Siena, probably Italy's best medieval metal craftsman. Only 2 pieces of this super limited edition design were made for the entire world, both exclusively for MinorityRev in Fukuoka, Japan. One has been acquired by SZ member Super Turbo Taco (see previous post) with much appreciation and thanks on our end from all of us here at Cavarzere.
















                The hand tea dyed cotton t-shirt with hand cut circular inserts in
                organic L. Parisotto linen, cotton and seersucker striped fabrics


                Only 13 pieces of this design were made by hand in the world from pure cotton jersey knit and very special greggio tailor’s organic cotton striped fabrics (which were not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then hand dyed in our studios using Ceylon teas. Made exclusively for John Bull Private Labo stores in Japan at Harajuku, Kyoto, Okayama and Shinsaibashi (Osaka), and Kamille in Paris.










                Comment

                • Geoffrey B. Small
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2007
                  • 618

                  The LUT19 hand dyed pure organic cotton jersey oversize t-shirt with real
                  mother-of-pearl buttons made in Padova, extensive hand stitch work and
                  hand sewn buttonholes



                  This super limited edition design is one of only 11 pieces made by hand in the world. It was made exclusively for AL in Kichijoji, Kamille in Paris and IF Boutique in Dubai from 100% organic cotton jersey knit using very special handstitched detailing and buttonholes and real mother of pearl buttons made for us in Padova, Italy. The piece was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effects using organic vegetable dyes and salt.





















                  The LUT11 hand dyed pure organic cotton jersey oversize t-shirt with real
                  mother-of-pearl buttons made in Padova, extensive hand stitch work and
                  hand sewn buttonholes.



                  Hand dyed pure cotton jersey t-shirt with L.Parisotto organic cotton stripe fabric placket and pocket details, and massive pure horn and olive wood buttons made exclusively for us by Italy's best artisan buttonmakers in Parma with corresponding oversized handstitched buttonholes. Only 16 pieces were made in the world for Journal Standard in Japan, Plaguesearch in Hiroshima, and Kamille in Paris.










                  Comment

                  • Geoffrey B. Small
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 618










                    The special hand dyed Mako cotton t-shirt for Pollyanna


                    This super limited edition specially hand dyed t-shirt design is one of
                    only 8 pieces made in the entire world exclusively for Pollyanna
                    in Barnsley UK, from a classic Italian crew neck shape, cut in a
                    very special luxurious Italian pure Mako cotton superfine ultra-soft
                    jersey. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios using our
                    latest state of the art techniques for minimum carbon impact and
                    maximum patina effects. The special hand dye process is unique in the
                    world and requires over 4 and a half hours of expert and painstaking
                    work for each piece to achieve its unique colors and special effects.
                    Variations in color and color density are not imperfections or
                    irregularities, but specific characteristics of the special hand dyeing
                    technique. The design also features a real hand stitched label in
                    luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Filo Seta Milano thread.














                    The LUJ20 vintage Italian Ospedale worker's jacket for 58's in Frankfurt


                    This super limited edition LUJ20 design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the world, exclusively for Fifty Eights in Frankfurt am Main, using a recycle vintage cotton Italian ospedale (hospital) jacket and a very special greggio organic tailor's striped cotton by L.Parisotto and extensive hand stitching detailing using luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads. The piece was specially washed and treated by hand in our studios for extra aging and softness.










                    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011, 12:18 PM.

                    Comment

                    • Geoffrey B. Small
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2007
                      • 618













                      The LUO01 one-of-a-kind overall salopette for Minority Rev


                      This design is a one-of-a-kind unique piece made exclusively for Minority-Rev in Fukuoka. It uses a very special greggio tailor’s organic pure special houndstooth weave cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, special cotton and hand cut vintage recycle garment leather suspenders made by hand in our studios, special buttons in real copper made for us in Padova Italy, and real hand sewn buttonholes and detail stitching. The piece was specially cold dyed by hand, with a special technique using only vegetable organic dyes and salt.


















                      The LUJ18 organic double-face linen and cotton redingote for Journal Standard


                      Only 7 pieces of this LUJ18 redingote were made by hand in the world exclusively for Journal Standard in Japan from our own exclusive original redingote pattern from our research using a fantastic greggio double-faced organic tailor's linen and cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in
                      our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and
                      salt. The piece also features special real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes, working sleeve buttonholes, and detailing.




                      Comment

                      • Geoffrey B. Small
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 618












                        The Reversible 2-in-1 LUG01 organic cotton skirt for Journal Standard and Fifty Eights


                        This super limited edition LUG01 piece is one of only 15 pieces made in the world. It was made by hand exclusively for Journal Standard and features a fully reversible design for a true "2-in-1" concept use and extra investment value. It was cut from and a very special greggio tailor's organic cotton hickory stripe seersucker cloth (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, special gauze cotton striped linings from Como, and pure cotton Venetian lace. The special combinations of buttons feature special hand made buttons in real horn and olive wood made exclusively for us in Parma, Italy, hand made covered buttons, and real mother-of-pearl buttons from Padova, along with real handstitch buttonholes in Italian pure cotton threads. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact, using organic vegetable dyes and salt for maximum patina hand dyed effects.


















                        The LUJ15 jacket with removable hood for John Bull Private Labo, Japan

                        This super limited edition design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the world exclusively for John Bull Private Labo from our own exclusive original pattern from our research using a very special greggio organic tailor’s antique weave cotton (untreated no chemicals) woven for us exclusively by L. Parisotto at Sarcedo, Italy, then hand cold dyed in our studios for added softness, patina and aging. The piece features special removable hood, covered buttons and real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes.



                        Comment

                        • Geoffrey B. Small
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 618












                          The LUJ11 organic cashmere and cotton late 19th century jacket for Pollyanna, Barnsley


                          One of only 3 pieces made in the entire world exclusively for Pollyanna in Barnsley UK, this LUJ11 special hand made jacket is cut from our original pattern with a special late 19th lapel detail design, in a very special greggio tailor's pure superlight cashmere and organic cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in
                          Sarcedo, Italy. It was then specially cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum patina effects. The design also features some really beautiful light olive wood buttons from Padova, Italy, real working sleeve buttonholes, and 12 hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew).


















                          The organic double-face linen & cotton modified Afghan trouser for Minority Rev


                          This super limited edition LUP04 trouser design is one of only 2 pieces made by hand in the entire world, both exclusively for MinorityRev in Japan from our own exclusive modified Afghan trouser pattern from our research using a very special greggio double-faced organic tailor's linen and cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family
                          in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt. The piece features special real olive wood buttons made exclusively for us in Padova, Italy, and real hand stitched buttonholes, back pockets, and detailing with Italian pure cotton threads, and en extremely long 40+cm fly front and nickel zipper.


                          Comment

                          • Geoffrey B. Small
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2007
                            • 618




















                            The LUJ07 old-fashioned organic double-face cotton striped waistcoat

                            Luigi Parisotto's masterpiece double-faced organic cotton "old-fashioned" antique stripe fabric forms the base of perhaps one of our most successful selling pieces of the season. This limited edition design is one of only 29 pieces made by hand for the world from a modified 19th century original waistcoat pattern from our historical research using a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special antique weave cotton (no chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, and special patchworked Bemberg jacquard linings from Como, all specially cold hand washed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and extra aging and softness. The piece features special olive wood and leather buttons made exclusively for us in Padova and Parma Itally, and real hand stitched buttonholes and detailing in pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads. The piece was made exclusively for Journal Standard, John Bull Private Labo, and Minority Rev in Japan, Kamille in Paris, 58's in Frankfurt and Pollyanna in Barnsley UK.






                            Comment

                            • Geoffrey B. Small
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2007
                              • 618












                              A special hand dyed dark version of the LUJ07 was also produced
                              as a world exclusive for Pollyanna.



















                              The LUJ04.2 special dark version seersucker jacket for Pollyanna

                              This super limited edition LUJ04.2 special hand made jacket design is the only one of its kind made in the world this season. It was made exclusively for Mr. Mark Britton of Pollyanna in Barnsley UK, from our original pattern and cut in a very special greggio tailor's organic pure special antique seersucker cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy. It was combined with special deluxe Bemberg viscose rep striped linings from Como, then specially hand dyed in our using only vegetable organic dyes and salt. The design also features remarkable real artisan made horn, bone and olive wood buttons from Parma and Padova, Italy, real working sleeve buttonholes, and 12 hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew) and hand stitch detailing in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta thread.


                              Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011, 12:30 PM.

                              Comment

                              • Geoffrey B. Small
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2007
                                • 618

                                '


                                Special Order Bespoke organic seersucker
                                long jacket for Nuzyn, Amsterdam


                                As part of our ongoing commitment to continuously raise the bar and set new standards for the designer industry, our unique special order and bespoke services are slowly and carefully being made available now to a very few select retail partners around the world including Koos Faber's Nuzyn and the new Minority Rev project opening this month in Ginza (Tokyo). The one-of-a-kind special order long jacket design below was photographed at one of its fitting stages prior to buttonhole construction and other finishing operations, and is being made by hand exclusively to order for a private special order client (one of Holland's most famous legal attorneys) at Koos Faber's Nuzyn in Amsterdam using L. Parisotto's very special organic pure cotton antique seersucker fabric woven for us exclusively in Sarcedo, Italy and luxurious Bemberg viscose paisley jacquard weave linings from Como, Italy. The piece was specially hand dyed in our studios using only vegetable organic dyes and salt for its special color and patina effects.













                                Advanced modified Afghan pleated tailored trouser
                                in organic pinstripes


                                Designed for men and women, this super limited edition LUP06 design is one of only 12 pieces made by hand in the world this season. Of these, only four were made for all of the Middle East exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai, three were made for all of Europe for 58's in Frankfurt and a total of five were made for all of Japan and Asia-- 2 pieces for Minority Rev in Fukuoka, 2 pieces for AL Select in Kichijoji Tokyo and a 1 piece for the personal order of Mr. Shinichi Goto, the chief of the John Bull Private Labo Co. Ltd retail division. The design is made from our own exclusive modified Afghan trouser pattern from our research using a greggio pinstripe organic tailor's cotton (which was not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by Luigi Parisotto and family in Sarcedo, Italy, then cold hand dyed in our studios for minimum carbon impact using organic vegetable dyes and salt...resulting in a fabric with a very light, soft and wonderful hand.
















                                New experimentations in organic jersey and hand treatment techniques:

                                This super limited edition LUA01 scarf muffler design is one of only 7 pieces made by hand in the world. Of these, only 3 pieces were made for all of the Middle East and Europe exclusively for IF Boutique in Dubai, and 3 for all of Asia and Japan for AL Select in Kichijoji Tokyo from a 100% organic cotton jersey using very special handcut incision detailing and a special superlight cotton gauze striped lining woven in Como, Italy. The piece was then specially cold hand washed in our studios for minimum carbon impact and maximum aging and softness effects.



                                Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 01-06-2011, 12:31 PM.

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