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Suzy Menkes is a little more realistic:
"At Jil Sander, there seemed to be tension between the precise geometry of its designer, Raf Simons, and the Sander heritage of sleek severity. It reverberated from the taut raised-waist coats, from asymmetric sweater necklines and from an overall feeling that the designer was straining for ultra-modernity.
“I wanted to inject a lot of energy,” Mr. Simons said backstage, presumably referring to graphic inserts of fabric that looked striking as a curve appliquéd on a shirt but was more like trying too hard when organic shapes were attached to coats or developed as side tabs.
This was a collection in which the textures of cable-knit sweaters or shiny black puffa jackets told a more simple story than the complex modern architecture. And as so often in menswear collections, the range of fabrics intrigued but were difficult to digest on the fast-paced runway."
"Those panels were part nature, part nurture - their similarities to not only rock forms, but plate armour, focally evident, particularly in their placement - protecting a flank, say, or a single patch pocket standing proud like a breastplate over the chest. A couple of the knitted pieces had a curiass quality, and at second glance those puffer jackets cosseted and cradled the body - ideas of protection and survival were evidently on his mind (as they are with any luxury goods company).
What does this all add up to? A new feeling for a new decade, a new aesthetic thrust for Simons and Sander, perhaps, and certainly one of the most intriguing menswear proposals for a long, long time."
"Those panels were part nature, part nurture - their similarities to not only rock forms, but plate armour, focally evident, particularly in their placement - protecting a flank, say, or a single patch pocket standing proud like a breastplate over the chest. A couple of the knitted pieces had a curiass quality, and at second glance those puffer jackets cosseted and cradled the body - ideas of protection and survival were evidently on his mind (as they are with any luxury goods company).
Ermmm... ok.
That's the most post hoc thing I've ever read.
Originally posted by jogu
i went out to take garbage out and froze my tits runnin down stairs , think im gonna chill at home tonite . hungry tho anyone have cool ideas on what to order for supper , not pizza tho sick of pizza
"What does this all add up to? A new feeling for a new decade, a new aesthetic thrust for Simons and Sander, perhaps, and certainly one of the most intriguing menswear proposals for a long, long time."
so now jil is a mish mosh of recent raf collections with better construction and raf's line is a bunch of versace level tackiness? am i correct?
nailed it.
Fail Simons
"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
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