Lanvin - AW2010

[Silk]

Not even close. More like very early Raf, but I am not talking about the clothes, only the mood. The clothes are distinctly Lanvin - no one else does this. In today's world where there are so many designers whose work is derivative, Lanvin came out of nowhere and made a new aesthetic. This is called talent, and it is rare.

I see more distinctiveness and cohesion with the more reputable and well-liked designers here. This looks like any other watered-down euro brand taking cues from other designers past season successes. It looks like they are trying too hard for a distressed, almost post-apocalyptic mix-mash look that lends to the collections non-vision.Are they Lanvin or a ready-to-wear copy brand? To me Lanvin hasn't had a strong menswear identity and what they did have doesn't resemble this. I don't like knit-picking peoples opinions, but I don't see a new aesthetic here, just a mix-mash of old Lanvin and variations of recent popular designers.There is nothing interesting here I haven't seen before and the fails of the collection are greater than the good. Yellow soled Snakeskin fail-shape velcro slippers?

Lanvin seems more concerned with appealing to the hipster crowd so I'm not surprised they are taking whats "hot" and trying to capitalize. They haven't maintained any sort of consistent image other than a few shapes, and this collection just doesn't seem original. Where are the new original shapes and designs in this collection that makes their aesthetic new? This seems like its all been seen before, which is a sense you don't get when seeing the shows of the best and most forward-thinking designers.

The sweater everyone is championing looks O.K... gown sized with a massive turtle neck.. no thanks.

[rach2jlc]

This show was absolutely incredible, maybe the best show of the season. I will explain more in my review.

Agreed. I was very disappointed with most collections, but this one really did it well.

Lanvin has sort of become the new Dior for how fast it's established itself as the "go to" collection for fresh, interesting ideas (I mean OLD Dior like 2002.) As you said above, Faust, that is talent and that is rare.

Just to prove our point, I'm going to snap a few pics of the Lanvin collection for Fall 2002/03 from Paris to show you how Lanvin came out of nowhere.

[rach2jlc]

If one wonders just HOW "out of nowhere" Lanvin came, here is their presentation for A/W 2002/03. NOT that long ago... but this is what they were doing then (perhaps with this you can also see why I compared Lanvin to Dior above):

Sorry for the crappy/glaring pics... I'm no photographer. BUT, you get the idea:

[Faust]

you are simply fucking blind, that is all i can tell you.

I see more distinctiveness and cohesion with the more reputable and well-liked designers here. This looks like any other watered-down euro brand taking cues from other designers past season successes. It looks like they are trying too hard for a distressed, almost post-apocalyptic mix-mash look that lends to the collections non-vision.Are they Lanvin or a ready-to-wear copy brand? To me Lanvin hasn't had a strong menswear identity and what they did have doesn't resemble this. I don't like knit-picking peoples opinions, but I don't see a new aesthetic here, just a mix-mash of old Lanvin and variations of recent popular designers.There is nothing interesting here I haven't seen before and the fails of the collection are greater than the good. Yellow soled Snakeskin fail-shape velcro slippers?

Lanvin seems more concerned with appealing to the hipster crowd so I'm not surprised they are taking whats "hot" and trying to capitalize. They haven't maintained any sort of consistent image other than a few shapes, and this collection just doesn't seem original. Where are the new original shapes and designs in this collection that makes their aesthetic new? This seems like its all been seen before, which is a sense you don't get when seeing the shows of the best and most forward-thinking designers.

The sweater everyone is championing looks O.K... gown sized with a massive turtle neck.. no thanks.

[Faust]

Glad you liked it, John. Always interested to hear your opinion! Hope life is treating you well and glad you are not forgetting the good old SZ.

[Silk]

No I have perfect vision and this collection is fucking garbage, w/e

[Faust]

No I have perfect vision and this collection is fucking garbage, w/e

try taking your head out of your ass for once, maybe it will help your myopia.

[diamonds]

or pink eye

[rach2jlc]

try taking your head out of your ass for once, maybe it will help your myopia.

+1. The one thing that irritates me about fashion discussions (and that has sort of burned me out about them) is how being unreasonable often seems to present no problems and is justified with "well, it's just my opinion."

As we've discussed, this was a very good collection no matter how you slice it and I don't see at all what that poster is talking about. Even if you wouldn't wear it yourself, or even "like" the aesthetic, nevertheless the materials, the presentation, the way its put together and the themes/ideas present, are excellent.

You and I have been talking about Yohji for years, and I've said many times that I don't like it at ALL on me, personally, but I can see and appreciate what's going on beyond my own tastes.

As well, seeing those pics I posted above, it should be very refreshing, even astounding, to see how far Lanvin has come in such a short time.

[Fade to Black]

yeah that is indeed a very drastic turnaround, those shots from 2002/3 look more like they could have been from 1992/3.

[rach2jlc]

yeah that is indeed a very drastic turnaround, those shots from 2002/3 look more like they could have been from 1992/3.

That's why it reminds me so much of Dior around 2001-2002. If you look at Dior's mens collection from 1999-2000, then skip to Hedi's first collection, it's really amazing to see the shift.

Lanvin has managed to do that again, even in the almost supersaturated men's market today. I think it was easier for Hedi to make such a splash back in 2000-01, when there were so many fewer options. It was all minimalism (Jil/Helmut/Prada) and then superluxe sex (Gucci, Gucci, Gucci, D&G.) Now, we've got everything.

The fact that Lanvin still manages to rise above the fray in such circumstances tells me that they're doing something right. And, again, I say this as somebody who has little interest in owning much from the collections (it's not really my "style.")

[Johnny]

Whne you have a real interest as a consumer in clothing, specifically a particular look, it seems to be very difficult to be in any way objective about clothing generally. it simply becomes "i like that" or "I don't like that" - meaning "I'd like to buy that" or "i will not buy that". the constant appeal to comparisons with other designers is also very tiresome - "it's not as good as the designers we like".
I'm as guilty of this as anyone (almost) but it would be nice to see a bit more objective evaluation and critisism

[ironman]

what's up with the all the reptile skin footwear all of a sudden?

dunno, i felt it didn't look too bad on the Rick Owens collection, but it kinda seems out of place here to me

yeah that is indeed a very drastic turnaround, those shots from 2002/3 look more like they could have been from 1992/3.

^ lol

That's why it reminds me so much of Dior around 2001-2002. If you look at Dior's mens collection from 1999-2000, then skip to Hedi's first collection, it's really amazing to see the shift...

even with the same designer, you can see lots of change; there's a video of YSL by Hedi Slimane AW'98 on youtube, and like the early Lanvin that you so kindly posted, it's not much to look at. but if you consider his other YSL collections, you can see how astounding progress in a few years can be

on a sidenote, i have pictures of YSL by Hedi AW'99, and some from SS'00 that i can gladly share in the Designers subforum. would anyone like that? also, does anyone have images of the full collection of SS'00 and FW'00 from him?

[Fade to Black]

just scanned over the argument on the previous page briefly...will respond to Silk's comment -

I don't know about apocalyptic or whether this is striving towards that, but there's always been something distressed about these clothes to me. The semblance of pristine polish off the rack is begging to be scuffed up whenever I handle Lanvin.

While this isn't my favorite from Lanvin's mens post-Ossendrijver, I admire the presentation since SS2010 and then the progression towards this - how there's something wonderfully jumbled about all of it, as if the whole thing is less like some other shows where pieces will jump out at you, but rather it's a deceptively indistinguishable series of looks that add up to what could be the "Lanvin Man"'s wardrobe, him just coming out and about in the clothes he wears all the time and you can't tell anything apart except the cohesive whole, even if some parts look like they stray here and there it does kind of add up. It's camouflage fashion, if that makes any sense.

[Silk]

try taking your head out of your ass for once, maybe it will help your myopia.

Maybe you should heed your own advice. I gave valid points as to why this isn't a good collection and you are hyping it like it is the end all be all of fashion. You haven't given reasons for your original statements, but apparently it doesn't need any explaining because anyone who disagrees is a blind narrow-minded person with their head in their ass.