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Thread: Zam Barrett Dialogue

  1. #41

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    while zamb's use of sz lexicon could be seen as a shrewd marketing move to prick up the ears and gain the attention of a captive audience. It really makes no difference as more than likely if he'd given the garments names along the lines of the bags they's still be refereed to on here as what they look like, just as every jacket with a diagonal zip is called a 'fencing'. Maybe zamb's realised this as... but then again i don't take him as one with a pessimistic streak.

  2. #42

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    Zamb my man this stuff looks great! That Siamese bag is ill! Love it all and it definately looks like the ZamB I know.

    Ha! Ha! Knew somebody would take a hard line. Just say you don't like it and leave it at that.....Opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one and thinks theirs does not stink.

  3. #43

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    ^ what's the point of that, it's much better to hear reasons why someone doesn't like something. Strong opinions and intellectual debate are the strong points of this forum, just saying "I don't like it" and leaving it at that seems completely mundane

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    the term object dyed- has deep rooted connections with CCP.
    It is a term he came up with- While,garment dying has been done by yohji,comme etc it wasnt until carol did we see a shoe/leather jacket being dyed post production in the tanning barrels.- Hence the term object dyed. I associate the term with carol. Why not use the word garment dyed? Its a fairly generic term.

    Hammering leather wont make a stiff leather much softer my friend- Treating it with certain oils will- Hammering might help afterward.
    When you use the term 'hammered leather' you immediately strike a chord with those fans of Rick Owens/etc. Cut the jargon is all that I am saying. It goes a long way.

    I am a firm believer that the product, above all, should do the talking.

    While your bags might reveal your influences, they do not come across the same way as your clothes- they dont look tired.
    Like i said, the leather doesnt look too great- but...if you focus on that and the components i can see them going a long way.

    For example, I still think that Amadei's strength is in his bags and accessories. His clothes and shoes take second place.
    Rick Owens- we all know- Leather outerwear Lord.
    Maurizio- Shoe/leather guru.
    Carol - the psycho tailor.
    Luc- knit genius.
    Paul Harnden - Faggin

    and so on and so forth.

    While they might all produce full collections, they all started with their best foot forward.

    I go away to get some supplies for the studio and to meet up with a few friends and all hell breaks loose.
    I dont mind it at all though, better to have a healthy debate with polarizing camps than everyone singing Kumbaya........

    Anyways C'est Fini in some ways I've gotten used to you. We should declare you the official antagonist of SZ

    I look at your arguments on on the surface they would seem to make sense but when we get in depth you can realize that it's easy to miss the essence of things with words.
    I get the feeling that instead of having genuine concerns about the garments, you are more concerned with being the antagonist, in part because no one before you made any negative comments...........something you seem to think ought to be a necessary part of the equation.
    Why not address the quality/ design/ ideas in garments themselves as items as opposed to the terms/ words used to describe them?

    If CCP used the term "object dyed" to describe a process you say can be similarly described by using the term "garment dyed", would I not also be using a term someone else coined and by the same token being.............as you say "derivative"?
    My first experience with this term came from the work of MMM and not CCP, so maybe for you your first exposure to the term was with Carol. mine was with the great Martin Margiela.

    What does it matter what term is used?
    What about the pieces themselves, as opposed to the words used to describe them ?
    Do we wear garments or do we wear words?
    are we interested in the quality of products and their usefulness to our lives or some fancy story behind them............ that in reality may or may not have any real connection to the clothes themselves?

    Some of the work is indeed derivative, but there is nothing strange about that, as I have said before, all of us designers reference something, draw inspiration from somewhere, so I am not doing anything that others before me haven't done.
    All painters use paint, and most paint on canvas, can we say they are all derivative of the first painter to paint on canvas?
    That being said, there is also some very "original" ideas in some of the clothing. Ideas that are unique to me, my way of working and truly represents the frame of reference and ideas that i've tried to develop over the years. People like Faust, Laika etc who've known my work from when I did Women's collections can easily make the link between the ideas here and the ones I've worked on over the years.
    Anyone who knows how I dress in real life can easily see why my collections would have the pieces that are here as they are in some ways an extension of the type of clothing I've always worn

    Words are used to convey ideas, Jargon exist to communicate within an industry and to a group that would easily understand whats being said. my "Soft J" pants have more in common with these
    http://www.cryeprecision.com/P-APRCP...ombat-Pants-Ac
    than they do with with any existing pants from any of the designers we discuss here (whatever that means, as we discuss MANY designers here)

    The Magic Penny shirt is my own concept, referencing a legend in the history of my country, Jamaica. the fabric is from there, the mineral salts used to wash the shirt is from there, the story and the coin in the pocket of the shirt is from there...............Who did I copy here ?.

    The POLIS BAG is my own idea. Polis being the Greek word for free democratic city states. the idea was to create a bag that would be able to carry all the essentials of a modern city dweller. items such as a Laptop Computer, a Jacket, a few books, cellphone, wallet, keys etc.
    The original Polis was a more rigorous bag, made with five pockets out of Cordura (Military Fabric) and leather, the bag as been refined and resigned, twice

    The NICK bag is named after my wife (Nicole) and there is a story there I won't share with you...........

    The SIAMESE Bag is my own idea and a concept that I intend to explore further

    The PHOENIX bag is my own idea and design, it stems from the source by which the leather for the bag is acquired.

    The DNA Pants is my own idea..........rooted in the discussion of Evolution v/s Creation, intelligent design and the dispute about how "DNA" shows or tell of an "Intelligent Creator"
    The seams on the pants rotate around the wearers leg in the same way DNA molecular structure drawings rotate.........

    The use of Black is something I've always done in my work, not for the reasons others do, but in part because when I moved to New York and started designing I had no money, it was easy to find good quality Fabrics in Black. As a result of this necessity it became a recurring signature of my work. I dont need to do it now, but find that using black and other muted shades allow for focus on cut, construction and quality than on surface details. I would rather create a garment of exceptional quality that fits well than something that has to be promoted with stories.......
    stories might enhance the mystique of an already interesting and well made piece, but as you say "the items should be able to stand on their on" without the stories.

    The green in the bags stems from my experiences designing Military Apparel for the company in which the link referencing the "Soft J" pants is posted. It is a color that hopefully will become an important part of the color palette of future collections.


    If you had seen the thread I created in the announcement and feedback section you would know how the work came about, and that I said that I am still searching to establish the thinks that I really want to express in my work, to develop a "Zam Barrett" range and language, if you will. I think S/S 2011 will do a much bolder Job of that...............
    Last edited by zamb; 04-27-2010 at 12:24 PM.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I don't mean that the garments from each collection don't have esthetic cohesion, but rather that they don't have a story behind them. They are more garments for the sake of garments, not for the sake of telling a story. Not sure if that makes sense.
    i agree and think it makes perfect sense. ann will base her collections on the idea of what an artist may throw on from his closet or what rimbaud would dress like today if he were still alive etc - there's always a story behind it not completely relevant to the actual garment which is different from poell doing joints and perforations etc.

  6. #46

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    personally I like the idea of the hooded scarf--it's one of the things I've thought of in my head, the other is a scarf that can be wrapped around maybe twice and has some sort of closure (buttoned?) that keeps the end together so it can be converted to a neck warmer.. ;) would you do requests?

    but most important I'd like to see a modeling pic of the scarf as well as other pieces shown? how are the prices if you've worked it out..

  7. #47

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    nice work zamb!

    i particularly like the siamese bag, dna pants, and the penny shirt. to me, those items are the most wearable yet intriguing; they hold strong conceptions.

    as for the criticisms, i do agree that the leather looks a little stiff from the pictures. with the exception of the j pant which seems to be a prolific design, it doesn't really look like any other SZ designer to me really.

  8. #48

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    the fact that after all these years of discussing poells work to arrive at the idea that there is no story behind it is absurd.
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  9. #49

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    ^time to z boss

  10. #50

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    Great work Zamb. I'll be looking forward to seeing them in person.

  11. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by DHC View Post
    Zamb, I am digging the idea of the siamese tote. Very nice. However, I do have to agree with C'est Fini in that my initial response to the leather used on the bags isn't very favorable, but without actually handling the pieces..this is simply speculation. Ok, trying to be constructive here and that's the only criticism I care to share. BTW, stitch work looks great on the outerwear (at least from what I can see). Keep up the good work Z! SALVT!
    D, thanks for your kind words man, they are greatly appreciated.
    i'm happy to hear you like the bag, the leather is by no means "stiff' on this particular bag. it does have some "body' and this is intentionally so because I want it to maintain a certain look consistent with the design of the bag. What are your thoughts on the other items........... really would love to hear what you think.


    Quote Originally Posted by DHC View Post
    Michel Berandi used the hammered leather (and yes, he called it hammered leather [hammered using oils in the process/c'est fini correct]) long before I know of it entering Rick's selection of materials. Why not jump on Rick about that one?
    Maybe designers should copyright their descriptive phrases.....
    Last edited by zamb; 04-27-2010 at 06:46 PM.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  12. #52

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    Ok i misspelt FAGIN - Anyone with half a brain would have got the connection. I think I have said that I have a soft spot for harnden.

    Raw edge, i was running out of time, I said fagin instead of 'neo dickensian flair'

    Zamb, I just wanted to hear where you were coming from.
    As always, a story helps. Thanks for giving a little more insight into your creative process.

    DHC - im not policing anybody, If i seem like I am- i don't mean to.
    Perhaps 'Hammered leather' was not the best choice.
    In regards to the 'J' pant. Id just like to know why everyone is obsessed with the idea of a pant that twists along the leg. Ok there are a few iterations out there- but here is another one.... nothing wrong with it. But how many curve legged pants to we need to see from new designers?

    I for one would like to see something fresh come from zamb, who is no doubt very skilled.

    - Could we have a lookbook soon z?

    When I see the DNA pants i think- great will work well with that sweater of his and a nice tshirt- or will work well alongside some designer basics.(RO,BBS etc).
    With the clothes, I am on the fence. They seem nice and well made, but nothing Id go out of the way to buy. More focused fabric research could help. Since you are marketing your clothes online, we the buyers should know which mills your cloth comes from and what makes it special(see gbs- id love to hear geoffs opinion on this).While I like the story of the magic penny shirt, somehow the existence of metal fibres in the shirt gets my goat. Metal mixtures have been around for a while and to tell the truth, most of them have been a fail- even ann's. While it feels great to start with, it ends up feeling terrible on the skin. Please prove me wrong.

    Words like 'object dyed' and 'Invisible seam'' appear as SZ jargon to my ears when not used to describe a CCP product. I havent seen a margiela item labelled 'object dyed'. To me it isnt a generic term.

    If someone wants to use those terms for their own designs Im fine with it.
    Just that I wouldn't really bother with that designer in the future.
    Why associate yourself with someone elses creation? Why not use your own terminology to make it sound more interesting?. Do you catch my drift?

    Im pretty sure that GBS 'o.dyes' his clothes individually in buckets- but does he coin them 'object dyed'? While I might not be his biggest fan, I do have a lot of respect for him and his work as he sticks to his beliefs and goes to phenomenal lengths to create unique product. New designers take heed. It isnt enough if you just make clothes- anyone can do that. We need to see more people really pushing it.



    thanks,

    until next time
    Last edited by C'est Fini; 04-27-2010 at 12:39 AM.

  13. #53

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    i think the half of brain may be more necessary on your end, for understanding i was making fun of you:)
    funny that your statement that designers must start with a strength and focus, and that one of these designer's strengths was "faggin!"

    kidding aside, I generally really appreciate your comments, it's good to have some criticism instead of just foaming at the mouth over everything. i just disagree with your specific critique of zamb for being derivative- mainly because a) he has done some cool innovative stuff and b) everyone mentioned here is derivative

    [QUOTE=C'est Fini;234677]Ok i misspelt FAGIN - Anyone with half a brain would have got the connection.

  14. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by zamb View Post
    Words are used to convey ideas, Jargon exist to communicate within an industry and to a group that would easily understand whats being said. my "Soft J" pants have more in common with these
    http://www.cryeprecision.com/P-APRCP...ombat-Pants-Ac
    I agree- is using the term "internal combustion engine" ripping off Ford? if you say object-dyed, everyone knows what method of dyeing you're referring to, and though they go through Poell as a detour, they don't imagine the term or concept as immediately synonymous with him or his creations.
    Quote Originally Posted by philip nod View Post
    somebody should kop this. this is forever.

  15. #55

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    Interesting work Z-man, I do like the bags, and the double ply linen silk and distressed leather blazer look great. I can see from the fabric choices to details (hook closures, red accents, distressed leather) that the garments certainly have your flavor in them. I'd be interested in seeing these garments being worn.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  16. #56
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I saw them being worn yesterday and they look good on Zam. Definitely his steez - he was weraing the short jacket and the double-face scarf.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  17. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avantster View Post
    Interesting work Z-man, I do like the bags, and the double ply linen silk and distressed leather blazer look great. I can see from the fabric choices to details (hook closures, red accents, distressed leather) that the garments certainly have your flavor in them. I'd be interested in seeing these garments being worn.

    B,
    thanks very much man. really appreciate your kind words. I am going to try and organize another shoot with a Model wearing some of the pieces. Hopefully this will allow for an opportunity to see the stuff in motion. While I do wear all the stuff myself, I really dont think, I want to be a model..............

    I want to say something here that I think is important to be said about the nature of my work.
    The reality of all human existence is whether we want to accept it or not, we are influenced in one way or another by the things we see, and experience. As such, there is no question that being a member of SZ, from the beginning, I have been influenced somewhat by work of many of the designers promoted here. I admire them and respect them. but my aesthetic, has always been, and forever will be MY AESTHETIC. I have been sewing since I was thirteen, for more than twenty years now. There are certain things I believe in, a certain level of technical knowledge that I have.............. that's mine and it will never leave me. It will always and forever be a part of my work.
    I've always worn a well cut Blazer, a heavy cotton/ denim Zipper jacket, a pair of slim Jeans, long sleeve dress shirts with minimal details, or a bib front "poet" shirt. Ive always carried a "messenger" style bag. While I will always explore new territories, expand my repertoire of offerings, these things will always be at the core of what I do. It wasn't by chance that I was Immortalized in that EPIC SZ New years group collage that Brian created a few years ago, wearing a Blazer, Slim jeans, Dress Shirt, and carrying the first ever POLIS Bag.

    If I am influenced by these designers, it is in a way that has a greater meaning than you all would recognize and is by far more valuable to me than it's obvious. For years I had the belief that aside from your talent, you had to have a backer, huge amounts of cash, and kissed the butts of many to succeed in this business; to be the Valentinos and the YSL/s of the world. There was always a part of me that cringed at the inhumane expectations that designers are often burdened with. for these reasons I wondered quietly, if I could ever succeed at this business as such expectations and the hypocrisy that comes with it, are against the very core and nature of my being.

    I quietly and painfully agonized about how can I continue..........to be able to persevere without losing my soul?
    I've had to also ask myself the question of what to do with this ability that I have, if I walked away from doing fashion?.......... these are not easy questions for me, and to be honest at times I still ask myself I can really succeed at this business. I had stopped my Womens line in part because of this,

    What I have learned from CCP, Amaedi etc, is that you CAN have a small company, do what you believe and maintain your integrity. that you can make the clothes you want to make, find you own small niche and be happy and respected for doing that.
    now I understand that clothes can be made, in a way that respects humanity, without selling ones soul. That I can do my work and live a peaceful and respectable life without the complexities of the mainstream fashion industry. It is in this area in particular, that I am deeply indebted to these creators than in any visible and aesthetically obvious way.

    It is a joy to me to communicate with David, Albert, Faust, G.B.S. etc, to talk about real things, non fashion things.
    Yesterday I hung out with Faust in the rain and came home to an email from GBS about Marriage and family. those things are more important to me than fashion. to know that I can be a human, with honesty and integrity. This where SZ and the designers have contributed more to my development than in any stylistic or technical way.
    Last edited by zamb; 04-27-2010 at 10:42 PM.
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  18. #58

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    Z, I am amazed!!!!

    I had no idea you had all these pieces hiding away in your workshop :)

    From the images, the construction and craftsmanship are stunning and absolutely in line with what you've made before. I can see bits and pieces of work you've done as how-to's and also just for your own wear in your various posts on SZ over the years and that's really something nice. A little bit of the past, a little bit of the future all combined together.

    Inspiration may consciously/unconsciously come from various places but you've made these distinctly your own with the details within them and as we have met in person (and it's been much too long since we've hung out again!) I can see each and every one of these pieces fitting you and your personal aesthetic. If people would just see your WAYWTs of the past then this collection would make sense as something that you would and could easily wear every day.

    Now... I want thems curved pants and the belt!!!!
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  19. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by Venus in Furs View Post
    ^ what's the point of that, it's much better to hear reasons why someone doesn't like something. Strong opinions and intellectual debate are the strong points of this forum, just saying "I don't like it" and leaving it at that seems completely mundane
    ^ Agreed, but something tells me he simply does not like it. I can live with being wrong here.

    But I plan to design completely original alternatives to pants, vests, shirts, jackets, coats, shoes and bags for my Fall 2011 line. These will be firsts of their kind ever! I vow to change the way we men dress on earth forever!! Ha Ha Ha!!!!!Ha HA Ha!!!! HA HA!!!AHHHH!!!.....

  20. #60

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    "What I have learned from CCP, Amaedi etc, is that you CAN have a small company, do what you believe and maintain your integrity. that you can make the clothes you want to make, find you own small niche and be happy and respected for doing that.
    now I understand that clothes can be made, in a way that respects humanity, without selling ones soul. That I can do my work and live a peaceful and respectable life without the complexities of the mainstream fashion industry. It is in this area in particular, that I am deeply indebted to these creators than in any visible and aesthetically obvious way."

    I feel the same way. Sorry to get off topic for a moment, but try and tell some of your friends , family or strangers that you don't want a celeb in your clothes, or a spread in GQ, or you want the most expensive construction available. People will think you have lost your mind.

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