What do you think of the longer tshirts? JCreport claims that it's a microtrend, which I am not sure about. Personally, I like long tshirts, but not with short jackets. I like them to just peak out from under the jacket. Here is the article. http://beta.jcreport.com/48206
The Longer They Come
Global
Ann Demeulemeester s/s 'o7
Rick Ownes a/w '06-'07
Attachment s/s '07
Dior Homme s/s '07
Patrick Soderstam s/s '06
Menswear can be a narrow, constrictive genre. Despite
accessorization, dandification, and an ongoing drive towards full-blown
flamboyancy, what really matters at the core is the delicate balance of
proportion, texture, and length. For men, evolutions and revolutions
come on the order of the millimeter. Period.
Take the current long t-shirt microtrend, for example. Paired with
seriously short jackets and painfully slim trousers, long flowy tops
make for a charming, haphazardly put together, challenging new look,
all layers over layers and garments popping out from underneath others.
The phenomenon initially emerged in fashion's darkest, edgiest corners,
and has been strenuously fed ever since, with a healthy dose of rock
insouciance and melancholia-tainted, angst-ridden androgyny. Ann
Demeulemeester and Rick Owens
are, without any doubt, the originators of this gritty boho wave. The
gloomy Belgian and gloomier Los Angeles transplant have been
championing the long tee in un-suspected times and in all its
gossamer-thin and distressed glory, molding to skinny torsos under
battered, poetically lived-in jackets and skeletal drainpipes tucked
inside stompy boots, all of it in a muted palette of blacks,
almost-blacks, and more blacks. Simultaneously in Japan, cultish
in-the-know labels like Attachment, Diet Butcher Slim Skin, and Grime Effect
made their stylish badge of honor of tattered, urban angularity, with
distressed, long tops as a central ingredient in their delicious
recipes for dressed-down luxe. Back in Europe, long tees have lately
reached a zenith at Dior Homme,
where Hedi Slimane proved once more his unique and clever ability to
catch a whiff of the underground and serve it to the fashionable
intelligentsia in the chicest way possible. Dior Homme's s/s '07
collection is an ode to achingly young and dangerously thin fallen
Icaruses — million dollar street urchins who wear pale, scoop-neck tees
under minuscule metallic blousons, adding sashes here and there for a
graphically slashed effect.
For those who don't fall into the sharp dresser category, however,
the long t-shirt flood also comes in a wholly different flavor: feisty,
psychedelic, and relaxed. Think '80s Katherine Hamnett,
early '90s W & LT, most of all, think ravers. Sole and fierce
champion of this alternative take — and we’re not using these
adjectives lightly — is Swedish wunderkind Patrick Soderstam. By
matching hip-hop's baggy proportions with a resolutely futuristic
agenda, Soderstam keeps perfecting, season in and season out and
oblivious to fickle trends, what he calls a "mushroom" silhouette: a
totally unisex combo of gown-like tees and super-tight leggings, or,
alternatively, circular-cut humongous pants, splashed all over with
garish patterns. Definitely for true fashion risk-takers and other
genuinely forward thinkers.
Achingly chic or gloriously careless, it seems, long tees are
definitely here to stay, at least for longer than the usual fashionable
nanosecond. Stay tuned.
-Angelo Flaccavento
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